1983 Audi 5000 Turbo
09-18-2019, 07:04 AM
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
1983 Audi 5000 Turbo
Just bought a new car last weekend, as my title says, it's a 1983 5000 Turbo with 87,000 miles, showed up at an auction and I got it for super cheap. The body is incredibly straight, but the condition of engine and transmission are unknown, haven't tried to start it. It does look like some vacuum components are in need of replacement. The other issue is the interior is a biohazard due the a rodent infestation. Droppings everywhere, really pretty sketchy. I'd like to locate someone who does rodent control or something to clean out the interior, and even then, I probably still need to trash it. So, once I make sure it's not a biohazard, where should I start in trying to get it running? What sort of things should I look for, etc? Also, the trunk won't open, and the lock cylinder is gone as well. I assume I should remove the rear seat and crawl in, find the latch and open it from inside? Lastly, is there any way to get the bentley manual for this vehicle on pdf, or do I need to buy a hard copy?
09-28-2019, 10:24 PM
#2
Just bought a new car last weekend, as my title says, it's a 1983 5000 Turbo with 87,000 miles, showed up at an auction and I got it for super cheap. The body is incredibly straight, but the condition of engine and transmission are unknown, haven't tried to start it. It does look like some vacuum components are in need of replacement. The other issue is the interior is a biohazard due the a rodent infestation. Droppings everywhere, really pretty sketchy. I'd like to locate someone who does rodent control or something to clean out the interior, and even then, I probably still need to trash it. So, once I make sure it's not a biohazard, where should I start in trying to get it running? What sort of things should I look for, etc? Also, the trunk won't open, and the lock cylinder is gone as well. I assume I should remove the rear seat and crawl in, find the latch and open it from inside? Lastly, is there any way to get the bentley manual for this vehicle on pdf, or do I need to buy a hard copy?
The Bentley hard copies are cheep...
09-28-2019, 10:28 PM
#3
I would start by an oil and filter change, coolant change. Depending on how long the gas has been in the tank, I would remove that and put fresh gas in there and take a look at the inside of the gas tank to see if there is any rust.
After all that you may still need to change the fuel pump since these seize after a while if the car hasn't been run, which this car sounds like has not.
After all that you may still need to change the fuel pump since these seize after a while if the car hasn't been run, which this car sounds like has not.
09-30-2019, 01:23 PM
#5
Very cool! Looks like an honest and straight car. Depending on how long its been sitting, it may even need a timing belt service, including water pump change which runs off the timing belt.
luckily when the timing belt breaks on these cars valves don't bend since they are low compression motors. I have a 1980 5000S with 56k miles.
Hit me up if you have any questions on getting this car running again I'm in the Socal area. PM me your number and I can help you if you need help.
Armen
luckily when the timing belt breaks on these cars valves don't bend since they are low compression motors. I have a 1980 5000S with 56k miles.
Hit me up if you have any questions on getting this car running again I'm in the Socal area. PM me your number and I can help you if you need help.
Armen
09-30-2019, 07:08 PM
#6
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
On the Subject of Valves Bending
First of all, thanks for the info!! However, at the risk of seeming annoying, I couldn't resist but correct you 
. I believe the reason that your valves don't bend is because the good ol' Audi 10v I5 is a non interference engine, which doesn't have anything to do with compression. And yeah, it's a very straight car. I was thinking about liberating the engine and putting it in my 4KQ, but it's a pretty rare car these days, being a non Quattro 80s Audi, so I'd like to preserve it. I've got a bead on a non-turbo type 43 5000 with a manual trans, (also rat infested), so I've got aspirations to swap the trans from that into this Turbo 5000. I'm sure the trans would bolt right up to the engine, not sure about everything else, but it would be super cool. How hard is it to get into the front if the engine, with the timing belt cover being right up against the grille?
. I believe the reason that your valves don't bend is because the good ol' Audi 10v I5 is a non interference engine, which doesn't have anything to do with compression. And yeah, it's a very straight car. I was thinking about liberating the engine and putting it in my 4KQ, but it's a pretty rare car these days, being a non Quattro 80s Audi, so I'd like to preserve it. I've got a bead on a non-turbo type 43 5000 with a manual trans, (also rat infested), so I've got aspirations to swap the trans from that into this Turbo 5000. I'm sure the trans would bolt right up to the engine, not sure about everything else, but it would be super cool. How hard is it to get into the front if the engine, with the timing belt cover being right up against the grille?
09-30-2019, 10:45 PM
#7
Low compression engines are by definition "non interference", usually 8:1 or lower
The high compression engines, like the ones in my Scirocco 16V and Ferrari 348ts are around 10:1, and these are by definition "interference" engines, meaning valves will hit the piston if the timing belt breaks.
Anyway, the hardest part is removing the crank pulley which is on there pretty tight, if I'm not mistaken the crank bolt is on there around 250 ft lb. There is a tool that VW/Audi sold and on occasion will pop up on ebay that holds the crank from turning so that bolt can be undone.
The rest is pretty straight forward. Also, these engines use solid lifters, so a valve adjustment may also be needed.
I would try to preserve the car as much as you can., and only replace the 3 speed automatic transmission when and if it goes bad (usually by self destructing when the auto trans fluid mixes with the hypoid gear oil in the final drive when the seals in between these two units fail and allow the two different oils mix).
The high compression engines, like the ones in my Scirocco 16V and Ferrari 348ts are around 10:1, and these are by definition "interference" engines, meaning valves will hit the piston if the timing belt breaks.
Anyway, the hardest part is removing the crank pulley which is on there pretty tight, if I'm not mistaken the crank bolt is on there around 250 ft lb. There is a tool that VW/Audi sold and on occasion will pop up on ebay that holds the crank from turning so that bolt can be undone.
The rest is pretty straight forward. Also, these engines use solid lifters, so a valve adjustment may also be needed.
I would try to preserve the car as much as you can., and only replace the 3 speed automatic transmission when and if it goes bad (usually by self destructing when the auto trans fluid mixes with the hypoid gear oil in the final drive when the seals in between these two units fail and allow the two different oils mix).
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10-01-2019, 06:05 AM
#8
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ah, well, I stand corrected. Apologies for my presumptuous display of erroneous information. Anyways, hopefully I'll get to this car soon, but first I've got some other projects to attend to. Again, thanks for the info. I'll let you know when I get started on it.
11-23-2020, 06:21 PM
#9
Hi, need a huge favor. Can you check on your Audi 5000 turbo to see the hose originating from the turbo wastegate ends up? The wastegate is located near the firewall, next to the cylinder head. I recently bought a 1982 Audi 5000 turbo and that hose is missing on my car.
Thanks!
Thanks!