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01 Allroad air suspension N111

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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 10:58 PM
  #1  
kevin920's Avatar
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Default 01 Allroad air suspension N111

This was copied from my post on Audi Forums im getting no help there

I got a Vag-com cable from a guy off craigslist for $50 lucky me well I scanned the car because the air suspension pump wasn't going on and got this first try

Tuesday,27,November,2012,21:24:47:28317
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4 (x64)

Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4Z7-907-553.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4Z7 907 553 B
Component and/or Version: - 2C1A1 X031
Software Coding: 25503
Work Shop Code: WSC 13378
VCID: 44999C9D54F5423845D
2 Faults Found:

01400 - Suspension Level Control
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01397 - Venting Solenoid for Level Control (N111)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground



Had a ton of faults about voltage too low because its been sitting with no power for 5 months and we just got it started so that could be why so then I cleared the codes and let the car run for a while then scanned again

Tuesday,27,November,2012,21:25:58:28317
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4 (x64)

Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4Z7-907-553.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4Z7 907 553 B
Component and/or Version: - 2C1A1 X031
Software Coding: 25503
Work Shop Code: WSC 13378
VCID: 44999C9D54F5423845D
Fault Codes have been Erased

1 Fault Found:
01397 - Venting Solenoid for Level Control (N111)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground




Could this be the valve block? I took the pump out earlier and tested with battery it is working and pumping air out. When I clear the fault codes I hear the pump going on for a split second and turn off with the auto leveling light staying on, on the dash.

Also to what is all the measuring blocks for the the air suspension? would like to view the temp of the pump to see if it is working

THANKS



I figured out measuring blocks this might help not sure


Address 34: Level Control (4Z7 907 553 B)

22:35:27 Group 006
-2.0°C Pump temp (5-95C)
0.00 bar Reservoir pressure (3.58-15.96 bar)
OFF Reservoir valve OFF=Closed
OFF Pump ON|OFF

22:35:27 Group 005: Suspension unit extension
60.0 Front1 no units
41.0 Front2 no units
91.0 Rear1 no units
71.0 Rear2 no units
Tuesday,27,November,2012,22:39:52:28317
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4 (x64)
Data version: 20120807

Address 34: Level Control (4Z7 907 553 B)

22:39:49 Group 006
-2.0°C Pump temp (5-95C)
0.00 bar Reservoir pressure (3.58-15.96 bar)
OFF Reservoir valve OFF=Closed
OFF Pump ON|OFF

22:39:49 Group 004: Level control sensors
-80.0 mm Height Front1
-90.0 mm Height Front2
-63.0 mm Height Rear1
-78.0 mm Height Rear2

22:39:49 Group 001
12.88 V Voltage1 (varies)
0.00 V Voltage2 (varies)
0.0 km/h Speed Km/h
Term 50 Off (Term. 50 OFF)
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:59 AM
  #2  
danzero's Avatar
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From: Montreal
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I don't have any real insight into the codes you read. It's possibly just low voltage from battery. Have you verified with an accurate voltmeter?

I was recently getting the dreaded leveling light within 5-10 seconds after starting my car most of the time. Rarely, the compressor would actually pump up the car and the suspension light would go out. My front would sag overnight. I replaced both front bags with Arnott Gen 1s. The suspension light problem persisted. I installed a new compressor a few days ago, and bingo, no more dreaded issues. It's crazy how fast the new compressor can pump up the suspension now compared to before. It takes under 10 seconds to go up a level (It used to take seemingly forever, and would often bog down and throw the suspension light error.)

Even if your compressor seems to "work", it doesn't mean it's not the problem. If it can't put out enough PSI, I think the valve block detects this and throws an error. If you don't have enough cash for a new compressor ($400 at Arnott, worth it IMO), try the "beer can mod" on your compressor (do a search), or replace the piston ring in the compressor (search for a repair kit on ebay.)

Good luck!
danzero
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #3  
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From: Milwaukie, OR
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If the compressor is the issue there is a guy on ebay who is making rebuild kits so you don't have to put down $400 on a new compressor. His ebay name is "bagpipingandy" and he's an engineer from the UK who makes batches of these kits. There are a few people who have used them with great results. I think they are around $50 or so.

Here's a link to his development: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...rip-amp-repair

I'm going to try a kit in the near future because my compressor will hold Level 1 but moving up to any other level is a hit or miss affair.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 08:57 AM
  #4  
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Just rebuilt mine an hour ago and will post back with results. The compressor does not having anything to do with whatever is causing the system to deflate though. I made a point of lifting my car up completely and leaving it in jack mode with no compressor and it is still up 16 hours later.

I have a similar issue where mine has the potential to stay inflated for days (no leaks) but it usually deflates the front of the car on to the bump stops while I'm away from the car and sometimes all the bags. I've come back after running into a Starbucks 10 minutes later and my car will be on the ground. It's intentionally bleeding the air once the car is shut off but I have yet to figure out why.

Apparently I'll be parking in jack mode until I fix this.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:06 PM
  #5  
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Similar discussion here:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/24192.phtml
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #6  
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From: Montreal
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glee60,

You should also check your ride height level sensors. If your AR is intentionally bleeding out air via the valve block, it might be caused by the ride height level sensors.

Here's a DIY how-to for fixing them:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/45450.phtml
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #7  
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I don't think the sensors are bad they are reading -90mm some are not all the same the pump just stopped working and wouldnt pump up anymore. he car was sitting for a couple months and the air dissipated out of the suspension equaly out of the air suspension till it hit the bottom which it will do that no matter what.

VagCom said venting solenoid so its the solenoid on top of the pump I was going to check connections right now see if there is an issue.

if you clear the code for solenoid you hear the pump go on for a split second you if you read through what i posted you will see everything all the sensors are reading
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:53 PM
  #8  
kevin920's Avatar
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Originally Posted by danzero
I don't have any real insight into the codes you read. It's possibly just low voltage from battery. Have you verified with an accurate voltmeter?

I was recently getting the dreaded leveling light within 5-10 seconds after starting my car most of the time. Rarely, the compressor would actually pump up the car and the suspension light would go out. My front would sag overnight. I replaced both front bags with Arnott Gen 1s. The suspension light problem persisted. I installed a new compressor a few days ago, and bingo, no more dreaded issues. It's crazy how fast the new compressor can pump up the suspension now compared to before. It takes under 10 seconds to go up a level (It used to take seemingly forever, and would often bog down and throw the suspension light error.)

Even if your compressor seems to "work", it doesn't mean it's not the problem. If it can't put out enough PSI, I think the valve block detects this and throws an error. If you don't have enough cash for a new compressor ($400 at Arnott, worth it IMO), try the "beer can mod" on your compressor (do a search), or replace the piston ring in the compressor (search for a repair kit on ebay.)

Good luck!
danzero


Car was sitting dead battery for 5 months because I couldnt figure out what the problem was because I didn't have vagcom well now I do and got the N111 code I did charge up the battery and let the car run for 20 min so that isn't an issue right now the pump just stopped working it does work because I took the pump and tested apparently its the venting valve on top? so apparently thats the issue going out to check connections
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 06:15 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by glee60
Just rebuilt mine an hour ago and will post back with results. The compressor does not having anything to do with whatever is causing the system to deflate though. I made a point of lifting my car up completely and leaving it in jack mode with no compressor and it is still up 16 hours later.

I have a similar issue where mine has the potential to stay inflated for days (no leaks) but it usually deflates the front of the car on to the bump stops while I'm away from the car and sometimes all the bags. I've come back after running into a Starbucks 10 minutes later and my car will be on the ground. It's intentionally bleeding the air once the car is shut off but I have yet to figure out why.

Apparently I'll be parking in jack mode until I fix this.


How did it go? I am going to try and take the plug off the Venting solenoid today and see if its even working the plug was replaced by previous owner you cant totally tell lol, I am just going to a use a voltmeter on it and see if its working I think the valve is stuck open so maybe it might be dirty? Can you actually clean the solenoid? It seems like its the original pump but not sure the car has 154,000 miles on it so idk.

I used vag com on it yesterday to see if i can get it to budge with the car off I cleared the code and heard a click from the pump area but when I started the car and cleared code I heard the pump go on for a split second and shut right off again. I thought the venting valve was just for releasing pressure so I am not sure if because the solenoid isn't working that the pump wont work or if I fix the solenoid Ill get a new code hmmmmm.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #10  
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She's still up on jack stands, wanted to get a couple more things fixed before I put it all back together. Winter in MN means salty snow falling in my face, now that the car is melted off and dry I'm trying to fix a list of little things.
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