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CV boot replacement

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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #1  
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Default CV boot replacement

Well, my front left outer boot finally gave up the ghost. Since the AR is 2k out of warranty, I think I'll give this repair a shot myself.

I've got the Bentley manaul and the procedure seems fairly straightforward. However, I'm sure others on this site have a vast amount of hands-on experience and can provide some valuable info and do-s and don't-s.

From what I can see so far, the pinch bolt is the worst part of the job. Fortunately, I had the air springs replaced not too long ago, so the bolt is fairly new and I'm not expecting any problems (hah! famous last words).

Anyway, any advice or directions to other procedures online would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Peter
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

Make sure you loosen the CV joint bolt with the car on the ground with someone stepping on the brakes. Also turn the steering wheel fully clockwise on the left side so you can move the steering knucle enough to remove the CV joint from the bearing.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 06:27 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

Interesting, this isn't discussed in the Bentley procedure. (using the brakes is, not turning the wheel)

With the steps you describe, does the axle still need to come completely out of the car?

And by the CV joint bolt, I assume you mean the outer axle bolt, not the six inner bolts?

Final question (for now), I know on some cars the axle bolts have a reverse thread on the left side, to counteract the tendancy to unscrew when the wheel is turning counterclockwise. I assume I don't have to worry about this here?

Any other tidbits of advice?

Someone mentioned you had posted a great procedure here, but I can't seem to find it.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

The axle can stay in the car. You can use the old CV joint bolt (outer axle bolt) to press the joint off the axle. You will need a shim of some kind to drop in the CV joint thread cavity. The bolt is a little too short. I used an old drift pin I had laying around. Make sure you have a breaker bar and a long pipe to loose the axle bolt.

The procedure I wrote up was for pinch bolt removal. There is a write up in the tech section for CV joint removal. If you search on my UID for Pinch Bolt you'll find it.. I know you shouldn't have an issue with your pinch bolt (lucky)..
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

Thanks, this is very helpful!

Looks like I'll have to find an extension for my 1/2" breaker bar.

Do you know if there's a good alternative to the special tool used to clamp on the new "sealing bands" for the boot?

Also, any advice on what type of grease I should use?
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

I use nippers for the clamps, grease comes in the kit.. I used a 5' 3" black pipe from Home Depot for my extension..
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 07:46 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

Okay, just wanted to confirm one more thing:

For a LEFT side CV boot, you suggest to turn the steering wheel fully CLOCKWISE, which would EXTEND the steering arm and turn the leading edge of the wheel INTO the car. Is this correct?

Just wondering, I wasn't sure what the intent was here. If it's to get the steering linkage out of the way, it seems this is the opposite direction. If it's just to twist the suspension as far as possible, I guess either way would work.

Thanks again, I really appreciate all the help.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 08:18 AM
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Default Re: CV boot replacement

I know this is counter intuitive. By turning the wheel full clockwise it give the strut assembly more room to swing. If you turn the wheel counter clockwise you suck the strut asmembly into the wheel well and you won't be able to swing the strut out of the way.
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