while finishing my timing belt I went to tighten the camshaft bolt and snapped it. It broke at the end inside the cam. Can I cut an inch or so off the bolt amd thread it back in?
Second, would anyone know if that gap can be mad flush by taping the wings into the sprocket? There is space there and that space caused an angle and when I continued to tighten it screwed in at and angle and snapped the end piece off inside the camshaft. And solutions or comments appreciated. Maybe my bar is slightly bent on that cam?

 

If the bolt was not cross-threaded when it broke/snapped, the piece left inside should be easy to come out since there in no more tension/stress on the bolt. Use a bolt extractor to remove the broken piece and replace the bolt with a new one.

This bolt will be subject to vibration when the engine is running. You do not want it to ever become loose while the engine is running. Use a torque wrench so you don't over-tighten the bolt.

 

Thank you for your advice. I ordered a new camshaft and it should be here soon.

 

Tip: make sure you count the links in the cam chain (Mark if possible) between the intake and exhaust cams before and after removal.

Do not overtighten cam chain tensioner tool.

If it's the right side, (passenger side US), engine at TDC then rotate the cam back slightly will make all the valves closed. This will take the stress/tension off the bolts when removing the camshaft. You will feel when the tension is release and know when to stop. Use the cam lock/holding tool to rotate back. Using anything else may cause it to fly back with a sound you may not like. Position the pin in the tool into the hole of the oblong shape washer...ensuring that the slot in it is lined up with the camshaft. Push up against the camshaft since there is no bolt there. YES you can remove the tool at this point...just dont disturb anything on the opposite side. You gonna have to move it to change the cam anyway.

Loosen and tighten in the proper sequence.

*Change all seals and gaskets while you there.

Right side and left side cam profile is slightly different. I think on the left all valves will be close at TDC so there is no need to back up. You will notice this if you count chain link spacing. One is 16 and the other 15 1/2 i belive.

If the chain link spacing is incorrect, it will trigger the engine check light with some error about cam timing in either bank 1 or 2.

WARNING:
When i say backup. This mean cylinder head section only. I am assuming that the bottom of the engine is locked at TDC with the special tool.

Finally, remember to rotate the cam clockwise to the point where you found it before you put the belt on. You must do this only after the cam chain is on. Rotate until the knotch in the camshaft aligns with the position for TDC.

Good luck with that.

 

Very informative, thank you for the detailed response. I ended up selling it today. But...I now have another allroad, 6mt, runs great.

 

There is at-angle gap between wing and camshaft? That's totally wrong. The wing should be flat and sandwiched between bolt washer and belt gear. If you have any gap or stuff not going on smooth, it means something is damaged and you will have to de-time everything and verify that parts are not damaged. Most likley the wing has its key damaged and the camshaft is not even at TDC now at all. Take off that bar and see if the key moves around the clock even the tiniest bit when pressed against cam gear, if it does... you can't properly time the engine until you either get a new undamaged wing (and only if cam mating part is also undamaged) or open the valve covers and time to cam bearing marks... If you used the bar to rotate the camshaft to "make it timed" , that usually damages the parts.

Since you snapped a bolt, that already tells me that you don't know what you're doing since you severely over-torqued the bolt...

Google "ECS tuning timingbelt guide 2.7t" to get step by step instructions at the very least...

 

You obviously cant read, car is sold.

 

Ok, so he messed up. He said it was his first time doing this. Dont tell the guy he don't know what he is doing, that only make things worse. What you should do is try to help him. The bolt already broke.

As I recall, he did not say he use the bar to rotate the camshaft to make it timmed, neither did I. In the current state (cam sprocket not pressed on to the camshaft), if the bolt is broken its obviously not. You can move the RH camshaft back to allow the tension to release from it when removing. Bentley also state this. They mention the backwards rotation amout in degrees...which i don't remember the amout. You will feel the point when tension is release so the degree amount is not necessary. Anyone with any knowledge of cylinder head will see why this is true. Take a look at the camshaft lobes and you will see they are no longer touching the lifters. The reason for using the tool (my suggestion) is to do it in a controlled manner. If not done in a controlled manner, the cam will abruptly spring backwards instead of slowly, due to the shapes of the lobes.

The little backward rotation you make will close all the valves. If all valves are closed what is gonna get damage?

Do you even know what you are saying?
Have you done this before? Remove camshafts?
Are you reading the information about damage from a book/CD?

If you rotate any further...yes valves will now open and interfere with the piston causing damage.

Yes it can be done without rotating back...however when loosening the bolts that hold down the camshaft you will feel the tension dragging on the bolts while the camshaft springs upwards. That is not good for bolts that is screwed into delicate aluminum. On installation you will definitely feel the ackwardness trying to drag the cams down to its seat. If not done right, they may slip and automatically rotate itself back to where I told you to set it in the first place.

Car sold, he no longer need any advice/help. I will not comment any further...

 

Are you paying attention??? His wing is crooked/at angle, what does it have to do with what you spilled over several paragraphs above and moreover why personal excursions, I think OP can defend himself.

Some things are better left untouched if one has no idea what they're doing, especially engine related stuff.

Car is sold.... god have mercy on whoever bought this hack job... I think we will see another 2.7t biting dust due to TB failure.

And how convenient to jump on me and say "I will not comment any further... ". Very well, mr last word.

 

Ok, both of you can knock off the back and forth. It's not going to help the with the problem and in any case it appears the OP sold the car..