locking tool required?
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locking tool required?
While doing a timing belt on the 2.7t can I use just the cam locking bar or do I need to also use the locking tool to lock the crankshaft. Ive read many post for DIY and none of them mention it. I thank you in advance for your response(s).
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Joined: Oct 2014
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I would recommend using the crank lock, even though it is very difficult to install in the allroad. There is slop between the crank pulley that has the TDC mark and its bolts, and in my case, the marks did not align with the cam lock in place. When I bolted the pulley back on, I made sure the marks were lined up with the crank lock in place. It can be several degrees off of true TDC. With the crank lock, you are assured everything is perfectly aligned.
You'll need several extensions to get the lock in and out, and go through gaps in the suspension to get a semi straight shot at it. The cover for the hole it goes into can be different from the manual; I think it was changed between the APB and BEL versions of the 2.7 l engine.
You'll need several extensions to get the lock in and out, and go through gaps in the suspension to get a semi straight shot at it. The cover for the hole it goes into can be different from the manual; I think it was changed between the APB and BEL versions of the 2.7 l engine.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 31
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I would recommend using the crank lock, even though it is very difficult to install in the allroad. There is slop between the crank pulley that has the TDC mark and its bolts, and in my case, the marks did not align with the cam lock in place. When I bolted the pulley back on, I made sure the marks were lined up with the crank lock in place. It can be several degrees off of true TDC. With the crank lock, you are assured everything is perfectly aligned.
You'll need several extensions to get the lock in and out, and go through gaps in the suspension to get a semi straight shot at it. The cover for the hole it goes into can be different from the manual; I think it was changed between the APB and BEL versions of the 2.7 l engine.
You'll need several extensions to get the lock in and out, and go through gaps in the suspension to get a semi straight shot at it. The cover for the hole it goes into can be different from the manual; I think it was changed between the APB and BEL versions of the 2.7 l engine.
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You have to remember that you are taking the cam belt off, so the crank CAN move relative to the cam in the process of loosening , tightening, and taking things off. Plus you don't know if a previous repair or cam belt change was done exactly right. If the crank is off a few degrees, valves can hit pistons.
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[QUOTE=jonlowe;24669399]You have to remember that you are taking the cam belt off, so the crank CAN move relative to the cam in the process of loosening , tightening, and taking things off. Plus you don't know if a previous repair or cam belt change was done exactly right. If the crank is off a few degrees, valves can hit pistons.[/QUOT
Ok gotcha, thank you for your responses
Ok gotcha, thank you for your responses
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Milwaukie, OR
I just did this job last weekend and didn't use the crank pin. I used the cam bar and marked several of the teeth on the crank gear. It's pretty difficult to accidentally move the crank gear when doing this. It's up to you though. Good luck.
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Exactly what I was thinking, thank you.
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