Basic steps for upgrading A6 sedan
I want to replace front speakers with Dynaudio.
I want to replace rear speakers with Dynaudio.
I want to install new amp to power these four speakers.
I would like to keep the existing sub/amp but it might be too hard to do that, so I may have to run new power to a new sub.
What connectors do I need?
What are the recommended sizes of speakers for front and back?
Please help me, I'm sick of paying car audio installers that I don't really trust.
Also, think about what will be the weakest link in your system.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/8575/dsc00097.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/8575/rear_deck.jpg">
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2 JL 8w6 in the rear deck next to the amp in a sealed suspended enclosure
need a blaupunkt rca out adapter, search archives
mb quart 6.5 in the front and 6.5 in the rear doors as well.
hope this helps
which amps do you have powering the MBQuarts?
which amp do you have powering the subs?
do you think I could get 7" Dynaudio's in the front doors without cutting?
Also, what can I put in the rear doors? I'm thinking about just puttin in a Dynaudio 6.5" woofer in each door ... no tweeters. Would I need crossovers?
Also, what are alternatives to the OEM subwoofer being where it is? Has anyone with an A6 (or A4) mounted a free-air subwoofer in the rear deck? JL makes them I think. I don't want to take up a lot of my trunk with a sub enclosure. Plus, I don't want to add a ton of weight to the car.
with sub in the trunk, the rear passenger will hear more bass than the front, and you will add some woofer in the back with no highs?
it's better to use only tweeters in the rear instead woofers.
hmm..by looking on the demands, you'll have to sacrifice the trunk. for driving front speaker you'll need at least 400 watts amp. 200 for the rear. about 250-400 for the sub. that's 3 amps. plus 2subs, and a box....just imagine
i reckon:
3-way dyn's in front door + one 2x150or higher amp
2-way coax/split in rear door + one 2x100 amp
2 10"/12" subs (look for subs which needs little box) + one D-class mono/2channel 500w amp
thanks for the advice but let me say this ... I own a set of two-way Dyn 240 MK II's. That takes care of the front.
maybe I should get a set of 2 ways for the rear as you suggest.
Why couldn't I get a kick-a$$ 4 channel amp (Mcintosh? / Brax? / ARC?) for the two sets of doors. Then I could get a mono amp for the sub. I'm not into monster bass so I would be satisfied with a free-air sub. Anybody got one of those?
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Just woofers in the rear is a good idea. Since you're gonna amp them (stupid not to), whether you need a crossover or not depends on your HU and amp you're using. Since you're staying stock with your HU, we'll look at your amp. Depending on the quality of the amp . . .and I'd assume you're looking pretty high quality, there should be a high quality crossover built into the amp. Or you could always get an equalizer or better HU.
I don't know much about OEM subs, but yes JL makes some nice IB subs which would work well. They don't need much power cause they're very efficient, they are small and compact, and since you are not looking for a ton of bass they should have enough output.
so you need about 200-higher watts, and you can only get it fron 2ch amps. as far as i can look there's not many 4ch amps produced more that 100watts per channel.
i absolutely reckon McIntosh amps, great SQ amps (pricey, though)
as for the rear, here's my trick: when the audience is only in the front seat, just slide the fader up to front, so the rear speaker has no sound. it's the ultimate front stage. but when you are having rear audience, simply set the fader to middle.
i am suggesting this, since your car is A6 (large cabin), and you usually had rear passengers so please, give the rear a chance to hear the goodness of your sound stage...
mote: if you can find Velodyne Subs, with active servo ,that'll be awesome!




