Reading all the bad & good with cleaning engine compartment but puzzled....
Everyone has their own way of doing things. You prefer the spray bottle method and other people prefer hose/pressure washer/etc. To each their own
Electric karcher pressure washers that advertise 1400 psi, don't really spit out 1400 psi and have water pumps that barely last 25 hrs (great for enthusiast use). To truly get that kind of pressure, you need a gas powered pressure washer.
We use the electric washers for engine bays and the gas powered one with differing nozzles for varying pressure for undercarriage, fenders, paint, etc.
After you degrease the engine bay, dry it out. We use an air compressor to blast out excess water. Then let it dry (it dries while we detail the vehicle) and then use 303 Aerospace to protect and lube up the hoses.
We used to use IN-AND-OUT (and we love the product), unfortunately, there is a chemical in there that causes so much lubrication that many of our customers with aftermarket hose clamps were finding their hoses slipping undone. DOH!
2. Moving parts and your fingers FTW
3. Water and electricity mix
4. If you hit something crucial the engine will probably stop running...hey, at least you know you screwed up!
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The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.
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