Auto Detailing Discussion Discussion forum for the in's and out's of properly detailing your ride

Reading all the bad & good with cleaning engine compartment but puzzled....

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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:52 AM
  #11  
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Default I'm not talking about spraying down yer battery =P

The battery is in under the windshield in a separate area than the engine bay. I was talking about the bay itself. It's not like you're dunking the engine bay under water. Nothing is water proof but if you take the necessary precautions, you should have no problems.

Everyone has their own way of doing things. You prefer the spray bottle method and other people prefer hose/pressure washer/etc. To each their own
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:57 AM
  #12  
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True true...guess I should invest in those giant ricer hood scoops to promote rain rinsing
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:58 AM
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LOL, DO IT! If it is raining, just spray yer engine and go for a drive ;-)
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:37 AM
  #14  
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Default I learned the hard way a long time ago

Engines and water do not mix well at all. If you are using water, use it sparingly and be very careful espically around the air intake. Many of the components were not designed to get wet.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 02:37 PM
  #15  
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Default On old school projects.. covering the distributor cap, all the spark plug mounts,

and the carb. For modern day engines...what we use is pressure washer and meguiar's super degreaser (diluted to 4:1). Modern day engines are sealed so well, you can rest at ease. We never get closer than 6 inches away from seals though. highly pressurized water and steam can get water molecules small enough to pass through seals (which is why steam cleaning an engine bay is a big no no).

Electric karcher pressure washers that advertise 1400 psi, don't really spit out 1400 psi and have water pumps that barely last 25 hrs (great for enthusiast use). To truly get that kind of pressure, you need a gas powered pressure washer.

We use the electric washers for engine bays and the gas powered one with differing nozzles for varying pressure for undercarriage, fenders, paint, etc.

After you degrease the engine bay, dry it out. We use an air compressor to blast out excess water. Then let it dry (it dries while we detail the vehicle) and then use 303 Aerospace to protect and lube up the hoses.

We used to use IN-AND-OUT (and we love the product), unfortunately, there is a chemical in there that causes so much lubrication that many of our customers with aftermarket hose clamps were finding their hoses slipping undone. DOH!
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #16  
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forgot to mention, make sure to leave the engine running while cleaning it.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 04:47 PM
  #17  
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In and out is no longer VOC compliant... Phil, can u carry 303 aerospace?
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 04:54 AM
  #18  
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Default Because...

1. It shakes the dirt off
2. Moving parts and your fingers FTW
3. Water and electricity mix
4. If you hit something crucial the engine will probably stop running...hey, at least you know you screwed up!

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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 06:02 AM
  #19  
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Check your local boat shop or Murray's Discount if you need it ASAP
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 10:25 AM
  #20  
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Default Not a good idea. Simple Green + Aluminium is not the best idea.

From the Simple Green website:

"
The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.
"<ul><li><a href="http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php?search_query=aluminum">http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php?search_query=aluminum</a></li></ul>
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