No, this thread is not titled "just swap an MC in".

While it would be nice to have a 200hp NG, its just not in the budget. So how about some easy things, while I'm rebuilding the engine.

I already had the head ported, was going to do the same to the manifolds, and the throttle body.

I was thinking of picking up a 4k exhaust manifold and downpipe. I have seen reference to the 7a bag o' snakes, but also that it won't fit. Also read that a very early one might. The manifold from an ACU code eurovan is another option but may require a new motor mount, plus my local lead fell through.

Right now the stock cam is in the head, and it may stay that way for a little while. I will see how the funds are.

I am putting in a CQ clutch, and maybe getting the stock flywheel lightened, or finding a fidzana, anyone know online dealers for those?

So I figure that will at least gain me back the power I lost from altitude!

I was STFA, and came across MT-Tec, who appeared to have a nicely modded NG, anymore info on what he had?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46745/single1.jpg">

 

See the links in my sig for all the details, my setup is VERY similar to yours, rebuilt "NF", lightly ported head, ported intake, Blau 272° cam, ceramic coated 4000q ex. man. and downpipe (don't waste your time with the eurovan manifold), lightend flywheel (16lbs.).
I never ran the engine without the cam, but I think I know what its doing!
The low end below 3,500 is kinda weak, once you get to 4,000 the engine pulls REAL HARD (and sounds incredibly mean!) and keeps pulling that way to right after 5,500, in the lower gears it's good to 6,000, in 3rd and 4th gear you can feel it start to flatten out as it reaches 6,000, I shift @ 5,750 when I'm on the track. I've only taken it past 6k a few times in 1st. and 2nd, I feel guilty like I'm abusing it 'cause it just gets noiseyer and doesn't make any more power.
If I had some serious porting done, I'd probably get another 500rpm out of it!
I also have a big advantage over you in that my car is about 300lbs lighter than yours....

The key to making your car substantialy quicker is to go to a 2.6L eurovan block, you need low end torque, lots of it!!
I even feel the need for it on the track, most corners are 3rd gear corners and at the exit I'm usualy around 3,000-3,500rpm, I have to wait for the engine to get on the cam before I realy start to move down the straight (see movie clip below)!!!<ul><li><a href="http://webpages.charter.net/typ85/fontana/Racer%20Boy%20high.mov">quicktime movie file 2.4mb. (of me at Fontana)</a></li></ul>

 

would nicely match my ported intake, tb and cam

 

And why do you say not to waste my time with the EV mani?
<img src="http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/em/eurovan_em.jpg">
Is it worth findiing a 4k mani?

I bet your advantage is greater than 300 lbs! But I may close the gap...

Your car sounds so good!

Oh, and I think you have convinced me on the cam. Now, is it worth it to go more radical than a 272? It is not my daily driver, so that is not an issue. But I know with the 12v's, radical cams are not beneficial because of the rev limiter. There is simply not enough usable revs to make the low end power loss worth it. would I run into a similar situation?

 

Yes it would, it made a HUGE difference instaled on my old "WE" engine...

 

This is the manifold I've seen, the one in your pic looks nice but you're going to have to make a custom downpipe for it, your also better off with cast iron and "Jet hot" coating it, it'll keep the under hood and intake manifold alot cooler!!

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41804/eurovan.jpg">



My car is right down to 2,400lbs.
You can't go much over 272° with the stock F.I. the overlap will reek havock with your air sensor plate!! My idle is very rough as it is, the next step is to change to "034" or "megasquirt" stand alone F.I.
One big advantage is you can get rid of the whole intake tract, all thats left is throttle body and aire filter!!
These systems are 100% programable with a laptop, they have much finer control over fuel and than the old "KE-Jetronic" systems!!

This is Carlos' "CS rally" car, he's using 034 EFI on a N.A. "NF" engine:

<img src="http://webpages.charter.net/typ85/cgt_engine_front.jpg">

 

It would be contact with the motor mount I would be worried about.

 

Hmm, wonder what I'd choose........

 

I've got an NG EM here, and the exhaust ports on the mani are a fair bit smaller than the already small head ports. What kind of materials are recommended for porting cast iron?

Sam

 

The reason I like cast iron is you can coat it and wrap it to keep the under hood and intake manifold cool, it can take allot more heat than a header can with out disintergrating...
The eurovan was tuned for super low end torque (it only had like 120hp!), I dought that manifold flows much if any more than the 5-3-1 combo....