EGR
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EGR
Hi ARK Any advice how to clean clogged EGR passage.Where is this located? Between intake manifold and ..I have Popular Mechanic CD. Is any place were I can find this on this CD."Check Engine" light goes on and off,DCT code=2411.Anything else?Thanks!
AudiWorld Senior Member
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Just did this last weekend! More info.....................
I am refering to the 2.8 V6 of course. I had same DTC code. EGR valve is OK, EGR vacum regulator solinoid valve (controls the vacum signal to activate the EGR valve) was OK. So the only thing left is the intake manifold passage itself. The CD ROM service manual is no help in describing where the EGR passage is on the manifold, but may help you remove the throttle body. See the rest of the steps for other tools you may need. This is actually a good time to replace the 2 oxygen sensors (Bosch Universal three wire, $79 each from GPR), as you will have access to the drivers side one (the toughest) with the battery removed.
First you need to get two gaskets from your Audi dealer. One is between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The other is between the Throttle body and the intake manifold. Find yourself a 7/8 inch FLARENUT open-end wrench (SEARS). Make sure you know your radio code, as the battery may have to be removed for easier access.
1) Remove the plastic battery cover. Using the 7/8 flarenut wrench, squeeze your arm past the ABS unit, and loosen the flarenut connecting the end of the EGR tube to the rear of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Remove the battery if you need more reach-in room. This is the hardest part of the whole operation.
2) Remove the plastic engine cover, remove the MAF to throttle body duct black rubber duct tube (loosen the two hose clamps).
3)Remove the black plastic throttle body duct : One hose clamp for the breather tube(drivers side), one squeeze-to-remove breather tube to the passenger side valve cover, and one vacumm line on the rear. Remove the two 10MM (11?) bolts on top, and then pull the duct off, by pushing it straight back towards the firewall. Carefull not to lose the rubber bushings on the two guide pins !
4) Disconnect the cruise vacum servo (one bolt, one hose, and a twisty (?) pin/wire at the linkage ball joint)
5) Remove the rearmost drivers side spark plug wire, and unplug the rearmost fuel injector (depress the wire spring, and pull straight off) for maximum access. Also, similarly unplug the square and rectangular plugs just rearward, mounted to a metal bracket, facing straight up.
6) Remove the two 10mm (11?) bolts which hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension for the front bolt, and a universal swivel for the rear.
7) Pull the EGR valve off the intake manifold, and wiggle back and forthe until the pipe to exhaust manifold comes loose. Now just set the EGR valve to the side, to gain acces to the passage hole on the intake manifold.
8) Remove the blue vacum line, and the two TORX head screws which hold the intake manifolf changeover vacum servo to the manifold. I did not pop the linkage ball off, just let it the servo hang.
9) Remove the 4 hex socket head bolts ("Allen key") which hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. If you want to remove the throttle body (for cleaning), disconnect the throttle position sensor plug, throttle cable (two clips), vacum hose on the right side, and evap hose on the left side (clamp). Otherwise, you could just let the throttle body hang against the firewall. (Amazing how small the "Primary" throttle butterfly is!!)
10) The plugged EGR passage is now visisble (!?). It is located on the intake manifold "floor" just behind the location of the smaller primary throttle butterfly was located. It is probably just a darker black circle, about the diameter of a pencil eraser.
11) Clean it out with a sharp instrument. Use a shop vac to try to suck up the carbon debris. Then clean the rest of the passage, which makes a 90 degree turn, and runs to the now exposed EGR valve hole. I used a foot long piece of aircraft/bicycle cable, attached to my cordless drill, as sort of a power cleaning snake.
12) Reverse everything, and put it back together. Double check that you have not forgotten to reconnect any hoses, connectors, spark plug wires, vacum lines...........
Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 15 minutes. I did not use any gasket sealing compounds.
13) Enjoy code free, ping free motoring for another 80K miles!
First you need to get two gaskets from your Audi dealer. One is between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The other is between the Throttle body and the intake manifold. Find yourself a 7/8 inch FLARENUT open-end wrench (SEARS). Make sure you know your radio code, as the battery may have to be removed for easier access.
1) Remove the plastic battery cover. Using the 7/8 flarenut wrench, squeeze your arm past the ABS unit, and loosen the flarenut connecting the end of the EGR tube to the rear of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Remove the battery if you need more reach-in room. This is the hardest part of the whole operation.
2) Remove the plastic engine cover, remove the MAF to throttle body duct black rubber duct tube (loosen the two hose clamps).
3)Remove the black plastic throttle body duct : One hose clamp for the breather tube(drivers side), one squeeze-to-remove breather tube to the passenger side valve cover, and one vacumm line on the rear. Remove the two 10MM (11?) bolts on top, and then pull the duct off, by pushing it straight back towards the firewall. Carefull not to lose the rubber bushings on the two guide pins !
4) Disconnect the cruise vacum servo (one bolt, one hose, and a twisty (?) pin/wire at the linkage ball joint)
5) Remove the rearmost drivers side spark plug wire, and unplug the rearmost fuel injector (depress the wire spring, and pull straight off) for maximum access. Also, similarly unplug the square and rectangular plugs just rearward, mounted to a metal bracket, facing straight up.
6) Remove the two 10mm (11?) bolts which hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension for the front bolt, and a universal swivel for the rear.
7) Pull the EGR valve off the intake manifold, and wiggle back and forthe until the pipe to exhaust manifold comes loose. Now just set the EGR valve to the side, to gain acces to the passage hole on the intake manifold.
8) Remove the blue vacum line, and the two TORX head screws which hold the intake manifolf changeover vacum servo to the manifold. I did not pop the linkage ball off, just let it the servo hang.
9) Remove the 4 hex socket head bolts ("Allen key") which hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. If you want to remove the throttle body (for cleaning), disconnect the throttle position sensor plug, throttle cable (two clips), vacum hose on the right side, and evap hose on the left side (clamp). Otherwise, you could just let the throttle body hang against the firewall. (Amazing how small the "Primary" throttle butterfly is!!)
10) The plugged EGR passage is now visisble (!?). It is located on the intake manifold "floor" just behind the location of the smaller primary throttle butterfly was located. It is probably just a darker black circle, about the diameter of a pencil eraser.
11) Clean it out with a sharp instrument. Use a shop vac to try to suck up the carbon debris. Then clean the rest of the passage, which makes a 90 degree turn, and runs to the now exposed EGR valve hole. I used a foot long piece of aircraft/bicycle cable, attached to my cordless drill, as sort of a power cleaning snake.
12) Reverse everything, and put it back together. Double check that you have not forgotten to reconnect any hoses, connectors, spark plug wires, vacum lines...........
Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 15 minutes. I did not use any gasket sealing compounds.
13) Enjoy code free, ping free motoring for another 80K miles!
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