2.0L Conversion, Well engine is Built.
03-15-2004, 02:14 AM
#1
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2.0L Conversion, Well engine is Built.
Well all in all, this is not really a straight forward bolt in.
Many issues were found and had to be addressed.
Firstly, Choice of conrods will determine how much work need to be done to make the right clearances.
Firslt the most strainght forward bolt in is using the Eurospec 2.0L stroker kit.
How ever i chose not to go with their full kit, as they use a slightly smaller conrod ussing 5/16" rod bolts.
I wanted to use 3/8" rod bolts.
So 3 choices i know off in rods, Pauter, Arrow and carrillo.
I chose Arrow rods from matrix engineering.
The Big end is slightly smaller than Pauter units.
Using these, only 2 placed inside the Block needed to be shaved for clearance.
The Other item that has to be machined is the Intermediate Drive shaft and gear that drives the oil pump. Conrod in Piston hits this shaft if you dont do the machining.
I also installed the Eurospec Mains Girdle.
This also had to be remachined, 2 conrods and two places on the crank where hitting the girdle,
so out with a die grinder and shaved off a few places for clearance.
Well we thought that was it, well now, the sump would not fit on, as it was just touching on four mains stud nuts.
So we trimmed the sump for clearance to the mains stud nuts.
The other stuff around was with the Adjustable Cam sproket, That you can not use the original washer that is on the cam sproket retaining bolt.
You also have to use either a smaller diamter washer, or machine the original one down to fit withing the cam sproket.
Because of the Mains Girdle, the Sump will sit about 8mm lower, so we also cut and reshaped the crossmember in engine subframe, so it will allow for clearance with sump being lower.
Also the oil pickup was also made to be 8mm lower.
Techically the oil capacity is slightly increased.
Basic Spec of engine
92.8mm stroke
82.5mm bore
Compression 8.5:1
JE Pistons
Arrow engineering Rods with 3/8" rod bolts
All Balanced and sonic line bored.
Forged 2L Crank.
Ported Head and flow tested
Cermaic coated pistons and head and valves.
Schrick Solid Lifter Cam kit consisting
of Audisport Mechanical cams
Solid Lifters
Double schrick exhaust springs
schrick intake springs
Schrick 20thou larger exhaust valves
schrick intake valves
adjustable cam sproket
Glyco bearings
JE premium rings
will post some pics later.
All in all, i probably hope never to do another 2L conversion, but rather go for overbore 1.9L setup.
Many issues were found and had to be addressed.
Firstly, Choice of conrods will determine how much work need to be done to make the right clearances.
Firslt the most strainght forward bolt in is using the Eurospec 2.0L stroker kit.
How ever i chose not to go with their full kit, as they use a slightly smaller conrod ussing 5/16" rod bolts.
I wanted to use 3/8" rod bolts.
So 3 choices i know off in rods, Pauter, Arrow and carrillo.
I chose Arrow rods from matrix engineering.
The Big end is slightly smaller than Pauter units.
Using these, only 2 placed inside the Block needed to be shaved for clearance.
The Other item that has to be machined is the Intermediate Drive shaft and gear that drives the oil pump. Conrod in Piston hits this shaft if you dont do the machining.
I also installed the Eurospec Mains Girdle.
This also had to be remachined, 2 conrods and two places on the crank where hitting the girdle,
so out with a die grinder and shaved off a few places for clearance.
Well we thought that was it, well now, the sump would not fit on, as it was just touching on four mains stud nuts.
So we trimmed the sump for clearance to the mains stud nuts.
The other stuff around was with the Adjustable Cam sproket, That you can not use the original washer that is on the cam sproket retaining bolt.
You also have to use either a smaller diamter washer, or machine the original one down to fit withing the cam sproket.
Because of the Mains Girdle, the Sump will sit about 8mm lower, so we also cut and reshaped the crossmember in engine subframe, so it will allow for clearance with sump being lower.
Also the oil pickup was also made to be 8mm lower.
Techically the oil capacity is slightly increased.
Basic Spec of engine
92.8mm stroke
82.5mm bore
Compression 8.5:1
JE Pistons
Arrow engineering Rods with 3/8" rod bolts
All Balanced and sonic line bored.
Forged 2L Crank.
Ported Head and flow tested
Cermaic coated pistons and head and valves.
Schrick Solid Lifter Cam kit consisting
of Audisport Mechanical cams
Solid Lifters
Double schrick exhaust springs
schrick intake springs
Schrick 20thou larger exhaust valves
schrick intake valves
adjustable cam sproket
Glyco bearings
JE premium rings
will post some pics later.
All in all, i probably hope never to do another 2L conversion, but rather go for overbore 1.9L setup.
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03-16-2004, 06:24 PM
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Regarding the solid lifters...how much of a process is it to adjust them?
You might want to become familiar with the process, since you have to do it every few thousand miles or so.
03-17-2004, 03:33 AM
#10
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Re: Regarding the solid lifters...how much of a process is it to adjust them?
No, who told you that.
I have had manycars with Mechanical Cams.
The worst ones are generally pushrod type engines like ford, chev etc.
The first car i had was a ford v8 with solid cams.
I adjusted them after 2000 miles, and kept checking them every 5000 miles, and never needed re-adjusting for the time i had the car and clocked up over 60,0000 miles on it.
Overhead cams engine rarely require adjustment after they have been setup.
I have had manycars with Mechanical Cams.
The worst ones are generally pushrod type engines like ford, chev etc.
The first car i had was a ford v8 with solid cams.
I adjusted them after 2000 miles, and kept checking them every 5000 miles, and never needed re-adjusting for the time i had the car and clocked up over 60,0000 miles on it.
Overhead cams engine rarely require adjustment after they have been setup.