Cams,... (solid-lifter cams conversion)
#1
Cams,... (solid-lifter cams conversion)
Anyone with a turbo audi (A4 1.8T/S4/TT/RS4/RS6) that has bought and installed a solid lifter cams conversion? If so, what brand, cost, and any comments would be appreciated,... =)
And what did you do about the tachometer? Aftermarket? Moded the OEM one on the gauge cluster? Just curious!
And what did you do about the tachometer? Aftermarket? Moded the OEM one on the gauge cluster? Just curious!
#3
Could you tell me if there is a kit you're looking at?
Hey Mike! I already invested stupid money for my cams and internals, do you mind telling me what you plan on doing about the tachometer? And could you tell me more about the specs for the cams kit? Thanks.
#4
Yes. No Kit available. Custom made. Good for racing purposes. Too Extreme for street use....
don't forget you'll also have to have new cams grounded from scratch and getting the profile right won't be easy and will most likely be expensive. The Hydraulic cam profile will not work with the mechanical tappets.
#6
I bought a schrick kit conversion already
Hey there! I just bought the shrick solid-lifter cams conversion kit with ti valves, retainers, and valve springs. It was a pretty penny.
I was just curious what else was out there (if anything). Could you tell me what you meant when you said it was too "extreme" for you?
I was just curious what else was out there (if anything). Could you tell me what you meant when you said it was too "extreme" for you?
#7
I should have guessed it. If anyone would of had it, it would of been them...
I looked into various options last year to get higher revs out of engine. I talked to Kent, Pipper, local gurus... but not Shrick. Dahlback quoted me $6K to do mechanical conversion on head ... (I thought he was out of his mind). I do know Hans Dahlback and Shrick have some sort of collaboration/partnership going. Anyway, it wasn't worth pursuing at these prices. One of the local head designers/guru wanted to design and build a set for the head (including cams) but I couldn't bring myself to take the risk. There were just to many design unknowns and I didn't think I had deep enough pockets to be able to cover unforeseen problems.
You should be able to get up to about 9.5 to 10 KRPM with a mechanical valve train if you change to a forged crankshaft, rods, wrist pins & pistons.
But I would love to see some pictures of the parts. You can e-mail me in private if you want to keep it off the forum.
You should be able to get up to about 9.5 to 10 KRPM with a mechanical valve train if you change to a forged crankshaft, rods, wrist pins & pistons.
But I would love to see some pictures of the parts. You can e-mail me in private if you want to keep it off the forum.