non-DBW vs. DBW engine differences?
Today I get a call from the mechanic telling me that the motor has a sensor for variable cam adjustment..which my old one does not have. Also, the coilpacks do not fit. (Seems to me like I got a DBW engine.) So, I call around and am told that i can just swap valve covers and that will work. However, this makes me wonder...do I need to worry about the hydraulic tensioners on this new engine? My old one had a chain to control the cams. Will leaving it alone be a problem???
Two companies say yes...but let's just say that I haven't exactly had 100% accurate service from them, so I'm looking for a second opinion.
Thanks for any help..
S.
It's hard to say what it will do if you leave it disconnected.
I think the DBW still has a chain, it just moves the middle of the chain up and down to vary the angle between the two cams. The variable tensioner is controlled by oil pressure. This affects only the intake cam.
On the non-DBW heads, there were two marks on the bearing caps that lined up with marks on the cam at the base of the gears. You'd have to see how they line up.
I think the general rule of thumb is retarding the cam shifts the power curve higher up the RPM range, whereas advancing the cam shifts the power curve lower in the RPM range.
Here's my guess:
At higher RPM's, the switch stops oil pressure to the tensioner, moving the tensioner down. This retards the intake cam, gaining more power at higher RPMs.
If you want to get rid of that head, I'd love to experiment with it
I've heard mixed info on what is diff with the 2000 model (slightly diff turbo, bigger fuel injectors, etc.).
Can anyone verify any of the differences?
Thanks,
FB




Maybe a Nawz switch he he

