2010 Q7 - Front Parking Aid Warning Buzzer
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
2010 Q7 - Front Parking Aid Warning Buzzer
Hi Guys,
my front parking aid warning buzzer (H22) went out, and I want to replace it. I'm just not sure where the damn thing is !
I found in the 2008 manual - only one I could find online:
Where is that supposed to be ? What is the "drivers side upper instrument panel cover", and how do I get it off ?
Thanks !
my front parking aid warning buzzer (H22) went out, and I want to replace it. I'm just not sure where the damn thing is !
I found in the 2008 manual - only one I could find online:
Where is that supposed to be ? What is the "drivers side upper instrument panel cover", and how do I get it off ?
Thanks !
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
uh
the individual sensors are located in the bumper fascia....those little round things that you always thought were covers to hide the bolts that the bumper was held on with....
#4
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
sorry I misread your post....
ultrasound sensor; retainer for ultrasound sensor Audi Q7 (AQ7) 2010 year Audi USA 919020
#6
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
have you looked here..
ultrasound sensor; retainer for ultrasound sensor Audi Q7 (AQ7) 2010 year Audi USA 919020
ultrasound sensor; retainer for ultrasound sensor Audi Q7 (AQ7) 2010 year Audi USA 919020
"Upper Instrument Panel Cover" doesn't sound like it's under the steering column.
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#8
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Figured I might as well update my post to help some other poor soul out.
Disclaimer: If you're a grown man over 5 ft, or not the skinniest SOB on earth, you'll have a bad time. Thanks, Audi.
No pictures, sorry. This write up is free, you get what you pay for. This is more for therapeutic purposes.
1. Remove two Torx screws (T25 I think) in the foot well left and right to the steering wheel to loosen the panel that holds the ODBII port. Wires can stay connected to port and foot well lighting if you don't pull on the panel like an idiot.
2. Pull on the panel above it (the one directly under the steering column) like a madman until you realize that it's held by two more torx screws, conveniently in a different size than the ones you just removed (T20). Curse Audi, get correct torx bit and remove screws.
3. Pull on panel from the bottom left and right to remove it. Pull on it like a crazy person to get the top clips to release. This is the panel referred to in the workshop manual as "drivers side upper instrument panel cover", albeit being neither anywhere "up" nor covering any "instruments". It is, however, on the driver's side, so I give them that.
4. Realize that this will take forever, so hook the battery up to a charger now. Otherwise your battery will be drained from having the door open and the interior lights on for hours. Congratulate yourself for being so clever and marking the positive terminal port with a red zip tie, since the red cover Audi cleverly installed was more brittle than WWII bakelite and disappeared years ago.
5. Press the two clips front left and right to release the "instrument relay and fuse carrier" or whatever the damn thing is called. It rotates down, but you can also pull it towards you a little to completely unhook it.
6. Burn your arm on your work light, again. Switch it off to let it cool down, and take a cigarette and beer break. Return to work and switch on the work light, which is still screaming hot, but refuses to turn on. Try to work without a light, but it's darker under the dashboard than inside a hibernating bear's butt.
7. Unsuccessfully try to work using your phone as a flashlight, and resign yourself to making a run to Home Depot to buy a new work light. In a stroke of genius, check the ground fault reset switch for the garage, and realize that the damn kids managed to trip it again. Reset it by jamming your finger as hard a possible into the switch, and bend your finger nail backwards in the process. Dance a little jig, profusely praise Audi and the Keebler Elf mechanics they must have working on these cars, although they most likely were not directly involved in the design or tripping of the ground fault switch.
8. Set up a box fan since it must be damn near 120 degrees in the garage. Dive head first into the center console to examine the "relay panel bracket" that used to hold the relay carrier. Remove the nut on the front right that holds it in place (10mm). Stubby ratchet with no extension works great if you don't mind a few cuts and scrapes.
9. Now you're supposed to slide the back of the bracket up to release some devilish contraption holding it in place, allowing it to be pulled towards you and be removed. I gave up after trying that for 30 minutes. The back of the bracket moved up, but all the pulling and twisting wouldn't let it come free.
10. Sit in the driver's seat and feel your way around the bracket in dark and unfamiliar territory, while you respond to your wife's helpful comments with a string of "that's what she said". Bend the bracket down far enough that you can feel the front parking distance warning buzzer thing, colloquially also know as H22, and push it towards the steering column. Once it comes out of its brackets, bend the bracket the right and push H22 down between the bracket and the steering column. You can pull the wire out a little, but of course not far enough that it would be easy to work on.
11. Thank Audi for their foresight to use a tiny pinhole locking the cable into the H22, too small to use any of the screw drivers within reach. This gives you the chance to do some stretches, crack open another cold one, and reminisce about the good old days when cars didn't have all this electronic BS.
12. Connect the new $50 buzzer that looks like it came out of a cereal box, and push it back up on top of the relay panel bracket. Briefly consider just leaving it there as is, until OCD takes over and you dive back in, aligning the tabs NNE to SSW, and push it back into the tabs.
13. Power up the Q Ship, push the parking assist button, and tally ho, all is well. Curse the wenches, and where did all the rum go ?
14. Button everything back up. Write this all down, since it's cheaper than seeing a psychiatrist.
Disclaimer: If you're a grown man over 5 ft, or not the skinniest SOB on earth, you'll have a bad time. Thanks, Audi.
No pictures, sorry. This write up is free, you get what you pay for. This is more for therapeutic purposes.
1. Remove two Torx screws (T25 I think) in the foot well left and right to the steering wheel to loosen the panel that holds the ODBII port. Wires can stay connected to port and foot well lighting if you don't pull on the panel like an idiot.
2. Pull on the panel above it (the one directly under the steering column) like a madman until you realize that it's held by two more torx screws, conveniently in a different size than the ones you just removed (T20). Curse Audi, get correct torx bit and remove screws.
3. Pull on panel from the bottom left and right to remove it. Pull on it like a crazy person to get the top clips to release. This is the panel referred to in the workshop manual as "drivers side upper instrument panel cover", albeit being neither anywhere "up" nor covering any "instruments". It is, however, on the driver's side, so I give them that.
4. Realize that this will take forever, so hook the battery up to a charger now. Otherwise your battery will be drained from having the door open and the interior lights on for hours. Congratulate yourself for being so clever and marking the positive terminal port with a red zip tie, since the red cover Audi cleverly installed was more brittle than WWII bakelite and disappeared years ago.
5. Press the two clips front left and right to release the "instrument relay and fuse carrier" or whatever the damn thing is called. It rotates down, but you can also pull it towards you a little to completely unhook it.
6. Burn your arm on your work light, again. Switch it off to let it cool down, and take a cigarette and beer break. Return to work and switch on the work light, which is still screaming hot, but refuses to turn on. Try to work without a light, but it's darker under the dashboard than inside a hibernating bear's butt.
7. Unsuccessfully try to work using your phone as a flashlight, and resign yourself to making a run to Home Depot to buy a new work light. In a stroke of genius, check the ground fault reset switch for the garage, and realize that the damn kids managed to trip it again. Reset it by jamming your finger as hard a possible into the switch, and bend your finger nail backwards in the process. Dance a little jig, profusely praise Audi and the Keebler Elf mechanics they must have working on these cars, although they most likely were not directly involved in the design or tripping of the ground fault switch.
8. Set up a box fan since it must be damn near 120 degrees in the garage. Dive head first into the center console to examine the "relay panel bracket" that used to hold the relay carrier. Remove the nut on the front right that holds it in place (10mm). Stubby ratchet with no extension works great if you don't mind a few cuts and scrapes.
9. Now you're supposed to slide the back of the bracket up to release some devilish contraption holding it in place, allowing it to be pulled towards you and be removed. I gave up after trying that for 30 minutes. The back of the bracket moved up, but all the pulling and twisting wouldn't let it come free.
10. Sit in the driver's seat and feel your way around the bracket in dark and unfamiliar territory, while you respond to your wife's helpful comments with a string of "that's what she said". Bend the bracket down far enough that you can feel the front parking distance warning buzzer thing, colloquially also know as H22, and push it towards the steering column. Once it comes out of its brackets, bend the bracket the right and push H22 down between the bracket and the steering column. You can pull the wire out a little, but of course not far enough that it would be easy to work on.
11. Thank Audi for their foresight to use a tiny pinhole locking the cable into the H22, too small to use any of the screw drivers within reach. This gives you the chance to do some stretches, crack open another cold one, and reminisce about the good old days when cars didn't have all this electronic BS.
12. Connect the new $50 buzzer that looks like it came out of a cereal box, and push it back up on top of the relay panel bracket. Briefly consider just leaving it there as is, until OCD takes over and you dive back in, aligning the tabs NNE to SSW, and push it back into the tabs.
13. Power up the Q Ship, push the parking assist button, and tally ho, all is well. Curse the wenches, and where did all the rum go ?
14. Button everything back up. Write this all down, since it's cheaper than seeing a psychiatrist.
Last edited by sap_pete; 07-05-2017 at 07:38 AM.
#9
AudiWorld Super User
mahaha, excellent write up.. cheers!
#10
I just replaced my front buzzer parking aid on my 2014 q5, i'm sure it will be in the same place for most of the models and most of the years. it took me a bit to find it since it was tucked away. it was between the key fob and the dvd/cd. if you could see thru the drive select button it would be just above it behind the counsel. its a really tight fit for any normal sized hand and you have to pop the torque screws out with a screwdriver prying the buzzer out. you have very little pull on the buzzer cords but is doable. just don't pull too hard and break any wires. getting back on was a nightmare, i tried for about an hour then finally gave up and put a strong 3m two-sided tape behind the buzzer and stuck in back in place. the buzzer is so light that it should be fine. the system is back up and running and for $25 for a used oem part on ebay and a couple of hours (mostly spent on trying to find the buzzer and trying to put it back), it saved me a few hundred dollars. oh, you have to also remove the plastic cover above the steering column (there's a hidden screw). have fun!