Greg5OH

Our 2013 q7 did not come with the tow prep package. I will be piecing together a tow kit as I can do it for under half the price of buying a new kit from dealer.
do I just plug the module into the back right? Or do I have to purchase a separate harness that runs the necessary wires all the way to the rear?
As of right now, I only need the 4 pin functions to be functional (brake, turn, reverse). Do you need the tow module for this to be functional?
Again, eventually I will have the complete module and wiring setup, but in the mean time..

Greystoke

So basically you’re saying “I bought a Q7, need a hitch and want trailer lights working, but I’m not willing to spend what is takes to do it right.” Well I hate to tell you but trying to integrate wiring into the brake/turn lighting seldom works out correctly.

Most members on here will tell you to just buy the OEM Audi kit as it will come with a properly fitting and extremely strong receiver, and the necessary module and wiring to integrate with the vehicle MMI.

Good luck on this and do a search. There are probably 100 threads on this subject for the MKI Q7.

Grey

Greg5OH

No Grey, you misunderstood me.
I know the correct wiring is necessary so the vehicle knows a trailer is attached, deactivates blind spot monitoring and sends power to electric trailer brakes when using the 7 pin. I was wondering if for a simple non electric brakes trailer if there is a "quick pin" or basic plug that you dont need the module for. Guess there isnt, which is fine. Just wanted to know.
Im picking up a BNIB curt hitch for 80$, then just source the module and wiring. Will be far less than half the price than a whole kit, as other members have also demonstrated. Also nothing wrong with a Curt, my class 5 on my F350 is a curt and it holds up fine.

dreadlocks

The OEM Hitch can have the cutout trimmed and reinstalled, a Curt hitch your not getting that hitch plate back on with the way the chain loops are designed; also has no mounting for wiring.

Even towing a simple brakeless trailer your parking sensors and blind spot monitoring will throw a **** fit; you can recode the rear view camera for backup mode w/out the module and you can disable the BSM manually... but you cant disable the parking sensors by putting the MMI into towing mode.. every time you put it in reverse w/a trailer it will drive you nuts.. I towed a few loads on a small trailer w/out any trailer wiring and it was quite obnoxious and I got a few errors popping up on the MFD.

You could get a cheap curt trailer wiring kit and splice it into the wires going to brake lights/turn signals, but on a vehicle this complex and sophisticated I'm adverse to splicing any wiring harnesses.. The Tow Module + Pigtail wiring is plug-n-play, you can adapt the 7-pin to a 4-pin with a simple cheap adapter.. IMHO you should install 7 pin wiring on a vehicle that can tow 5500lbs, If you put the lowest possible denominator on here its just going to be good for light towing.. 7 pin is not just for trailers with brakes, its also used on trailers with 12v power needs for things like work lights/battery systems/etc

Greg5OH

I got myself an OEM harness and OEM tow module. Now still deciding on which hitch. I do see the Curt has no provision for the plug, which is pretty dumb..any class 4 i have seen on F250/350 always has a bracket for the plug...
The draw tite has a provision for it, hwoever it is not idealy located like the OEM one and has the large fanned out 45 deg brackets for extra gussetting which Im sure will interfere with the trim panel...Dont know why they didnt just copy the OEM design...
Yes Ideally the OEM kit is the best fit and finish, however Im in $170 for the module and oem wiring(new!), an aftermarket hitch is $150 so $320 total for a fully functioning hitch setup...but without the sleek trimness of the OEM. I could weld a bracket to the Curt but I either need to repowder coat it, or shoot it with a good 2 stage paint, as single stage rattle can stuff never holds up and will start rusting there first..

drawtite. Havent found picture of it on a Q. Concerned the gussets wont fit under the bumper nicely[img]

curt: no provision for plug which is super lame:


OEM: definitely the sleekest best fit and finish. But guys want over 500 for a used receiver only.

dreadlocks

Mine came w/the Curt on it, I got an aftermarket wiring mount and attached it with some self tapping screws.. was a tight fit and took a lil bending

Greg5OH

Here is my DIY kit. Not picture is the huge draw tite hitch. Hoping next weekend I can install it.
Hitch was 167 with tax, the rest of the items totaled to $214

Total price for hitch with 7 way plug and coding: $381


by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151309316@N03/, on Flickr

wizard1880

The OEM hitch, really, is the best route. It's the only way you can tow the full 6600 LBS (if you happen to need the capacity), and it is simply FAR stronger than any aftermarket option. It's worth every penny.

Greg5OH

I agree the OEM hitch is the best route, simply from an aesthetics and guaranteed fit.
However, you are 100% wrong thinking that the OEM hitch is in fact stronger and necessary to tow 6600 lbs.
That same hitch, as well as the drawtite I have are rated for 7500 in the Taureg application.
OEM or aftermarket(brand name) will easily, EASILY handle over 1.5x the rated weight limit. The vehicle doing it safely is another story.

Greystoke

You should watch out for interference from the additional gussets on the draw tite hitch. You may end up having to make a much larger cut in the cover plate vs. the OEM or Curt.

Grey