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There is a brown wire in the plug connector for the fan switch..that is the ground..bridge one terminal to the brown then the other..that checks the complete circuit.
If the brown wire is not well grounded (I think it grounds over near the resistor board..don't remember) the fans may not work well when you bridge the connector. So if you test and it fails..check and clean the ground first..prior to new relays, etc.
Well, the fans work just fine and you are right second stage is like an aircraft taking off! Its likely the sensor in the radiator being a bit grubby or not working properly although strangely the system seems to be working better each day now. Maybe the bleeding of all air out of it or just the multiple plugging and unplugging to the rad switch giving a better contact. I ordered a new one anyway just in case I need it but it seems happy to control around 93C now when left to idle on it's own. I noticed that the first day there was an occasional bubbling noise around the heater matrix as I put the revs above 2500 rpm so I gave it a good hard run and now it has stopped.
I also noticed that the silly plastic coolant bleed screw has been leaking. I guess it must have kindly bled out all the air while I was driving but, when I attempted to tighten it up a fraction today it broke. Argh! Currently, I've got a machine screw in the hole so I can take the kids to school tomorrow but I'm not sure what it's made of and whether it will break down in the coolant over time. Ordered a brass one from ebay that is for a Renault so hope it fits. I'm guessing brass should be ok in the coolant without too much reaction.
Brass is fine. Those plastic bleeders are delicate. And the new hose is very expensive too. Your solution is to use a Renault brass bleeder screw will work. Fits in the threads nicely. Gets hot though..and you must use pliers. No screw driver slot.
Last edited by Rusty Spokes; 04-19-2016 at 04:38 PM.
I'm noticing that the timing belt seems slightly loose in the morning when it's cold. I can twist it with both hands actually a little bit more than 90* and it seems slightly floppy. During the first minute or so of driving, as I raise the revs, it almost sounds like I can detect a slight slipping squeal noise possibly on the waterpump pully. When it's hot though, it seems to be as tight as a drum and I cannot twist it the full 90*. I'm coming round to the idea that I should tighten it a little bit. I'm surprised that the belt tightens as it gets hotter but it certainly seems to.
Another little issue I'm starting to get is that the speedometer has become intermittent. I'm sure there's a good write up here somewhere which I'll look out if it gets any worse. Every now and again it starts to bounce a bit below the current speed and then drops down to zero. The odometer stops as well at that point. A few minutes later it then picks up again and appears to work fine for a few hundred miles. Not sure how the system works on this car but I'm guessing there is a mag sensor attached to one of the rear wheels. Is it all electrical these days? Last one I fixed was mechanical driven cable from a rear wheel.
Cheers
Most likely an electrical connection somewhere. The speedo is electric. I would remove the instrument cluster. By un-plugging and reinstalling the connections on the back of the cluster you may resolve the issue. Good time to change bulbs that may be burnt out too.
There is a speed sensor on the ide of the transmission. Make sure the connection is clean and secure on it too.
Thanks for the pic rusty. Now I know what to look for. I guess it is located somewhere on the drive side of the gearbox? Once I've unplugged that and replugged it I guess I'm on to dismantling the dash and the plugs at the back of the instrument cluster. As you say, best just replace all the bulbs at that point. They should be cheap and last till end of life. How serious a job is it to remove the instrument cluster?
Not to bad a job. Two screws that hold the top cover on the steering column. Then two screws hold the cluster. You do not need to remove the steering wheel..to be avoided if you have air bags...If you don't have an air bag..you get some more room to work with the steering wheel out of the way. Three or four (I think) connectors on the back of the cluster
I'm a little confused if I've got the belt tension right. Seems to be both too loose when cold and rather tight when hot. I can twist it a little more than 90* when its cold but only about 45* when hot. Should I tighten it a little do you think? Bit worried about it getting too tight when hot. The engine seems to expand a lot more than I imagined it would.
Another little issue that seems to be developing... (the car must know its getting worked on and playing up or something!) is that there is now a squeaky sort of noise when I turn the wheel to the right. It can be felt in the wheel when it makes the noise and I guess it must be a powersteering issue. Any known issues that I should look for?
If the belt is too loose it will slap the plastic timing covers once they are installed..it will quite down once warm.
I too have had problems with the 90* twist when cold..timing sprockets loose etc. You cannot adjust the timing belt with the cam sprockets tightened they must be free to spin with the timing bar on the engine.
That noise when you turn the steering wheel could be several things..front shock top mounts are a primary suspect. They break up and the bearings go bad. Very common.
The best results I've had is not quite a 90* (about 75* more or less) twist on the timing belt when cold then tighten everything up.
It is very hard to check the belt tension once you tighten the cam sprockets..too much going on with the camshafts loading and unloading the belt tension with spring pressure. That 45* twist when hot can be misleading.
The belt was tensioned with the sprockets free to spin and locking tool engaged. It's pretty cold here now(snow and hail today) and the belt is a bit floppy. Can twist with both hands to about 135* and the cams are able to move a bit when pressing on the belt in different areas and I can move it right to the edge where it contacts the back covers round the camshafts. Doesn't look good to me that. But, when hot, the belt can be plucked like a guitar string and is tight. Probably can only twist about 45* with both hands. Is that ok or should I tighten it a tiny bit and expect it even tighter when hot. I'm guessing it is supposed to be tensioned cold so probably ok to be a tiny bit tighter. Never imagined I'd have this issue.
04-18-2016, 04:40 PM
