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Okay so today I got a chance to get my hands on my car and try to fix this check engine issue. I haven't done the vaccum leak test as I dont have a compressor at hand right now. So decided to swap the coil packs.
P0300
P0301 Cylinder#1 and P0302 #2 are misfiring on passengers side, and P0305 #5 and P0306 #6 on drivers side.
I swaped coil pack #4 with #5. After doing that scanned car again and now it cleared misfire on cylinder #6. after that jumped to passengers side and swapped #2 with #3 and also did sparkplug swap and still was showing same results.
After doing the coil swapping I ended up with one code less ,the P0306 code dissapared. Now its showing P0300, P0301,P0302, and P0305.
After I done the coil pack swap I disconnected cables from Ignition Control modules and also swapped them to see if they were at fault. But I still was getting same codes.
I dircarded the camshaft sensors, since Im getting misfires on both banks, or could they still be the culprit? Im guessing my best bet its a vacumm leak.......so im heading to my brothers house to borrow his compressor
Why not just follow the advice I gave and that was echoed by others:
Replace the coolant temp sensor. Cheap, not too difficult, high failure item, reasonable given the codes.
To those suggesting a vacuum leak: Why are there no rich or lean codes recorded?
Why not just follow the advice I gave and that was echoed by others:
Replace the coolant temp sensor. Cheap, not too difficult, high failure item, reasonable given the codes.
To those suggesting a vacuum leak: Why are there no rich or lean codes recorded?
4Driver 4, im just a little confused since there are a couple of sensors that look almost the same as the coolant temp sensor. On my lower radiator hose I got this sensor
Here's the confusing part, on driver's side back of engine,(next to combi valve) i got this " 2 pin coolant temperature sensor" but many people call it "auxiliary coolant pump sensor" , "lower temp after-run coolant switch" or "thermal switch".
And on passenger's side back of engine I got this "temperature switch sensor", but on my bentley manual it states this sensor as being the so called "coolant temperature sensor", which I believe its the one you are saying to replace correct?
here's a bentley's diagram of A6 2.7t rear of engine showing the last two sensors mentioned above
What about the P1113 fault for the O2 sensor? That B1S1 location means that it regulates the fuel going to the engine when in a closed loop condition. 100xxx miles is about the time that they fail. When a CEL is on, the engine goes to open loop and a richer mixture is used.
I'm new to Audi and learning by reading posts such as this.
Okay so when I performed a vacuum boost test, air was coming out from all this spots(circles in picture below), the metal clamps were not tightened correctly,
After ensuring all clamps were tight, I pressurised system again to no more than 15psi, started to look for other air leaks but the pressure tester cap that I was using to pressurise system popped off (shown in picture below),that made me think there were no vacumm leaks since air forced the cap to pop out and air started to escape from this point.
So i guess since air was was forced out from this spot that means there is no air leaks in intake.
After this test , I still have the same codes.
Probably I did this process wrong and added to much psi into system, I was just letting the air flow in at no more than 10psi without stopping the air supply. If you think I did this wrong any advice is appreciated.
Also replaced the coolant sensor as stated by 4driverd but still there is no progress.
You tested for boost leaks and there are many sources for vacuum leaks that this intake test doesn't pick up. Removed the big Ypipe and check all the hoses that connect to the back of the engine. Fuel pressure regulator hose is often the first to go.
Also check the hose that connects to the intake below the throttle body. Your boost test did not check that because the intake connection is behind the throttle plate. There are check valves in this circuit that may fail, which allow boost to leak to the evap system and perhaps the spider hose.
Make sure you checked the hose condition under the clamps that you tightened. The main hose to the intake body often splits under the clamp.
Man Im actually getting frustrated about this issue , today im just doing everything allover again, i will be checking the vacumm hoses that jonkk stated, while Im at it I will check sparkplugs and gap again, swap coil packs. Dont really know if sparkplug brand is a big issue and affects performance on this cars. I have Autololite XP Iridium gapped at .032, but im thinking on buying the regular NGK copper ones and then see what happens. Or what if I gap plugs to .028, Will perform another boost leak test, this time I will add a gauge on my tester to see if Im pressurising the system correctly, I dont really want to take the risk and damage any seals, if I haven't done so with the pressure test I just performed.
After performing a visual inspection of the vacuum hoses that Jonhnkk said to inspect I did find some hose connections that kind of look bad.
The first one(picture below) is this valve, not sure if this has to do with all this multiple misfires but found it with no clamps(yellow circle) and zip tied(red circle).
This second conection its the one behind the engine and apparently has oil on it( red circle), which somehow makes me think its broken because of this oil, dust on it. I believe this is the pressure regulator hose correct?
And this two small hoses that look old and cracked
Heres a close up
let me know if there needs to be something done to them and if theres a way to test them for leaks.
Fix the vacuum leaks. It's hard to tell from your pictures, but address any that look questionable. What you called pressure regulator hose is known as spider hose, and it appears the top nipple on the distributor piece has snapped off. Could be a major contributor to your problem.
Double check the vacuum hose connections on the back of the engine/intake manifold.
04-08-2017, 08:48 AM
, today im just doing everything allover again, i will be checking the vacumm hoses that jonkk stated, while Im at it I will check sparkplugs and gap again, swap coil packs. Dont really know if sparkplug brand is a big issue and affects performance on this cars. I have Autololite XP Iridium gapped at .032, but im thinking on buying the regular NGK copper ones and then see what happens. Or what if I gap plugs to .028, Will perform another boost leak test, this time I will add a gauge on my tester to see if Im pressurising the system correctly, I dont really want to take the risk and damage any seals, if I haven't done so with the pressure test I just performed.
