Second Owner Maintenance Plan Questions
09-18-2017, 10:47 AM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Second Owner Maintenance Plan Questions
I've owned my 2007 4.2 for a little over a year now. I bought it with just under 100k miles and I now have about 120k. I've taken care of most of the minor issues common on these cars. The car drives fantastic, no issues. Now that I've worked through the immediate issues, I'm thinking long term = drive train and engine. The only thing I've done in these areas are fuel filter, plugs, and few bottles of Techron - just the basics. I'm on the fence whether or not to service any of the drive train from posts on the forum. Although there are no issues with it, if there's maintenance that can be safely done then I want to do it. I see it like changing the oil - you do it as preventative, not after you start hearing your motor knock. I have a hard time just leaving it alone since I don't have any current issues. Since I don't have a history on the vehicle, I want to play it safe. Do I service the drive train or wait till there's signs of an issue? If so, what services? For the engine - I'm thinking a good motor flush? I've also got a coolant flush on the list as well. What else should I be looking at - I have to assume that nothing has been done in these areas at all.
09-18-2017, 11:50 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
I've owned my 2007 4.2 for a little over a year now. I bought it with just under 100k miles and I now have about 120k. I've taken care of most of the minor issues common on these cars. The car drives fantastic, no issues. Now that I've worked through the immediate issues, I'm thinking long term = drive train and engine. The only thing I've done in these areas are fuel filter, plugs, and few bottles of Techron - just the basics. I'm on the fence whether or not to service any of the drive train from posts on the forum. Although there are no issues with it, if there's maintenance that can be safely done then I want to do it. I see it like changing the oil - you do it as preventative, not after you start hearing your motor knock. I have a hard time just leaving it alone since I don't have any current issues. Since I don't have a history on the vehicle, I want to play it safe. Do I service the drive train or wait till there's signs of an issue? If so, what services? For the engine - I'm thinking a good motor flush? I've also got a coolant flush on the list as well. What else should I be looking at - I have to assume that nothing has been done in these areas at all.
1. coolant as you note. 10 years and over 100K is plenty ripe. In doing so, inspect all the hoses carefully. Replace anything swollen, look for leaks at joints, etc.
2. Rear diff. Very easy and they can develop a whine so best to keep happy. Easiest part of drivetrain to do by far; I will defer recommending on other parts until you tackle other items on list.
3. Really inspect suspension--the mechanical part. Several items are essentially periodic maintenance given repeated need for attention. I don't mean air ride, which is fix as/if it breaks mostly. Thus, carefully inspect inner upper arm bushings in front. Inspect sway bar links. Inspect front roll bar bushings where it bolts to subframe. You can see posts on these week in and week out. Having it all in good order can save in tires, tighten up feel, and make ride more enjoyable. Look at your vehicle history to see if anything has been done in past. If not, both upper bushings and sway bar links will be in order.
4. One exception on air ride would be replace compressor relay. Do it if you ever pul the lower dash panel on drivers side. $25 relay can save you big bucks and on road breakdown if relay fries and pump runs until it dies.
As mentioned, I'm skipping AT, front and mid diffs for now, and also power steering. All are more advanced and/or hassle than above list.
09-18-2017, 12:36 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Next up from your list (and noting you did fuek filter) might be:
1. coolant as you note. 10 years and over 100K is plenty ripe. In doing so, inspect all the hoses carefully. Replace anything swollen, look for leaks at joints, etc.
2. Rear diff. Very easy and they can develop a whine so best to keep happy. Easiest part of drivetrain to do by far; I will defer recommending on other parts until you tackle other items on list.
3. Really inspect suspension--the mechanical part. Several items are essentially periodic maintenance given repeated need for attention. I don't mean air ride, which is fix as/if it breaks mostly. Thus, carefully inspect inner upper arm bushings in front. Inspect sway bar links. Inspect front roll bar bushings where it bolts to subframe. You can see posts on these week in and week out. Having it all in good order can save in tires, tighten up feel, and make ride more enjoyable. Look at your vehicle history to see if anything has been done in past. If not, both upper bushings and sway bar links will be in order.
4. One exception on air ride would be replace compressor relay. Do it if you ever pul the lower dash panel on drivers side. $25 relay can save you big bucks and on road breakdown if relay fries and pump runs until it dies.
As mentioned, I'm skipping AT, front and mid diffs for now, and also power steering. All are more advanced and/or hassle than above list.
1. coolant as you note. 10 years and over 100K is plenty ripe. In doing so, inspect all the hoses carefully. Replace anything swollen, look for leaks at joints, etc.
2. Rear diff. Very easy and they can develop a whine so best to keep happy. Easiest part of drivetrain to do by far; I will defer recommending on other parts until you tackle other items on list.
3. Really inspect suspension--the mechanical part. Several items are essentially periodic maintenance given repeated need for attention. I don't mean air ride, which is fix as/if it breaks mostly. Thus, carefully inspect inner upper arm bushings in front. Inspect sway bar links. Inspect front roll bar bushings where it bolts to subframe. You can see posts on these week in and week out. Having it all in good order can save in tires, tighten up feel, and make ride more enjoyable. Look at your vehicle history to see if anything has been done in past. If not, both upper bushings and sway bar links will be in order.
4. One exception on air ride would be replace compressor relay. Do it if you ever pul the lower dash panel on drivers side. $25 relay can save you big bucks and on road breakdown if relay fries and pump runs until it dies.
As mentioned, I'm skipping AT, front and mid diffs for now, and also power steering. All are more advanced and/or hassle than above list.
- Upper control arms
- Tie rod ends
- Sway bar links
- sway bar bushings
- Air suspension compressor / relay
- Spark Plugs
- Fuel Filter
- New wheels / tires
- Lower control arms - ordered
09-18-2017, 01:00 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
This is what I've completed so far:
- Upper control arms
- Tie rod ends
- Sway bar links
- sway bar bushings
- Air suspension compressor / relay
- Spark Plugs
- Fuel Filter
- New wheels / tires
- Lower control arms - ordered
Clicking on tight turns is more likely CV joints than bearings, with one exception I will come back to. For basic clicking, have you looked over the CV axle boots very carefully for splits, cracks, etc.? On my 2006, I was impressed in general how they were more robust than older Audis. BUT, near the end of my tenure at about 110K miles and 10 years, I found one of the outers was actually not split, but rather the rubber was deteriorating and starting to let grease ooze through. You usually only get clicking if they crack open, grease is gone and road grime enters. By then it often gets to a need to replace joint instead of just replace boot and repack. The one exception I mentioned--and had on W12--i there is one click scenario that is bearing related but not wear. If you hear a very high staccato type distinct click (like light metal tapping with some resonance) on a very tight turn--maybe in a quiet concrete garage where you hear reflected sounds, that can be a bearing issue. It is not internal, but rather the outer bearing shell moving ever so slightly in the steering knuckle when under load. There is a TSB on it. Fix is lightly grease the outside edge of bearing cartridge before inserting and bolting into knock.
Agreed on AT. Lifetime means nor one mile more or less until the parts fly out the case or it takes a dump. Manufacturer avoidance speak to have buyers think their cars are low upkeep too. ZF recommends a 60K mile (100K kilometer) type interval on 6 speed for what we would call rough/severe duty. I personally tend to target about 100K for tranny on my Audi's. On a 4.2 it is more straightforward. You have to be able to have car flat yet accessible underneath to fill it correctly, which just ramps or just a floor jack won't do. I do it by using ramps on my sloped driveway, which does get it back to flat. Front and especially mid diff are very hard to change fluid on a 4.2. Maybe best there just to inspect for leaks and check level of fluid. For any diff work, always remove fill plug before drain. Then if something goes wrong, you know before its too late and fluid emptied out.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 09-18-2017 at 01:13 PM.
09-18-2017, 01:11 PM
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
aebarto11: I'm in the same position, only with a D2 (129,XXX miles). I've done all the usual suspects (suspension, control arms, filters, timing belt service, brakes/rotors, rebuilt tranny)
The car is solid. So, I'm now tackling driver front axal and servicing the rear diff, as it is weeping from seals. One thing I'm keeping an eye out for is the oil cooler pipe leak. I believe the oil cooler pipe is an issue for D3's, as well.
These are great cars but man they like attention : )
Good luck.
The car is solid. So, I'm now tackling driver front axal and servicing the rear diff, as it is weeping from seals. One thing I'm keeping an eye out for is the oil cooler pipe leak. I believe the oil cooler pipe is an issue for D3's, as well.
These are great cars but man they like attention : )
Good luck.
09-18-2017, 01:37 PM
#6
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
aebarto11: I'm in the same position, only with a D2 (129,XXX miles). I've done all the usual suspects (suspension, control arms, filters, timing belt service, brakes/rotors, rebuilt tranny)
The car is solid. So, I'm now tackling driver front axal and servicing the rear diff, as it is weeping from seals. One thing I'm keeping an eye out for is the oil cooler pipe leak. I believe the oil cooler pipe is an issue for D3's, as well.
These are great cars but man they like attention : )
Good luck.
The car is solid. So, I'm now tackling driver front axal and servicing the rear diff, as it is weeping from seals. One thing I'm keeping an eye out for is the oil cooler pipe leak. I believe the oil cooler pipe is an issue for D3's, as well.
These are great cars but man they like attention : )
Good luck.
Whats the story on this common issue with the oil cooler pipe?
09-18-2017, 01:41 PM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
So, good list so far.
Clicking on tight turns is more likely CV joints than bearings, with one exception I will come back to. For basic clicking, have you looked over the CV axle boots very carefully for splits, cracks, etc.? On my 2006, I was impressed in general how they were more robust than older Audis. BUT, near the end of my tenure at about 110K miles and 10 years, I found one of the outers was actually not split, but rather the rubber was deteriorating and starting to let grease ooze through. You usually only get clicking if they crack open, grease is gone and road grime enters. By then it often gets to a need to replace joint instead of just replace boot and repack. The one exception I mentioned--and had on W12--i there is one click scenario that is bearing related but not wear. If you hear a very high staccato type distinct click (like light metal tapping with some resonance) on a very tight turn--maybe in a quiet concrete garage where you hear reflected sounds, that can be a bearing issue. It is not internal, but rather the outer bearing shell moving ever so slightly in the steering knuckle when under load. There is a TSB on it. Fix is lightly grease the outside edge of bearing cartridge before inserting and bolting into knock.
Agreed on AT. Lifetime means nor one mile more or less until the parts fly out the case or it takes a dump. Manufacturer avoidance speak to have buyers think their cars are low upkeep too. ZF recommends a 60K mile (100K kilometer) type interval on 6 speed for what we would call rough/severe duty. I personally tend to target about 100K for tranny on my Audi's. On a 4.2 it is more straightforward. You have to be able to have car flat yet accessible underneath to fill it correctly, which just ramps or just a floor jack won't do. I do it by using ramps on my sloped driveway, which does get it back to flat. Front and especially mid diff are very hard to change fluid on a 4.2. Maybe best there just to inspect for leaks and check level of fluid. For any diff work, always remove fill plug before drain. Then if something goes wrong, you know before its too late and fluid emptied out.
Clicking on tight turns is more likely CV joints than bearings, with one exception I will come back to. For basic clicking, have you looked over the CV axle boots very carefully for splits, cracks, etc.? On my 2006, I was impressed in general how they were more robust than older Audis. BUT, near the end of my tenure at about 110K miles and 10 years, I found one of the outers was actually not split, but rather the rubber was deteriorating and starting to let grease ooze through. You usually only get clicking if they crack open, grease is gone and road grime enters. By then it often gets to a need to replace joint instead of just replace boot and repack. The one exception I mentioned--and had on W12--i there is one click scenario that is bearing related but not wear. If you hear a very high staccato type distinct click (like light metal tapping with some resonance) on a very tight turn--maybe in a quiet concrete garage where you hear reflected sounds, that can be a bearing issue. It is not internal, but rather the outer bearing shell moving ever so slightly in the steering knuckle when under load. There is a TSB on it. Fix is lightly grease the outside edge of bearing cartridge before inserting and bolting into knock.
Agreed on AT. Lifetime means nor one mile more or less until the parts fly out the case or it takes a dump. Manufacturer avoidance speak to have buyers think their cars are low upkeep too. ZF recommends a 60K mile (100K kilometer) type interval on 6 speed for what we would call rough/severe duty. I personally tend to target about 100K for tranny on my Audi's. On a 4.2 it is more straightforward. You have to be able to have car flat yet accessible underneath to fill it correctly, which just ramps or just a floor jack won't do. I do it by using ramps on my sloped driveway, which does get it back to flat. Front and especially mid diff are very hard to change fluid on a 4.2. Maybe best there just to inspect for leaks and check level of fluid. For any diff work, always remove fill plug before drain. Then if something goes wrong, you know before its too late and fluid emptied out.
What fluids are best for the drivetrain in these cars?
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09-18-2017, 01:50 PM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
I use dealer obtained tranny fluid, but have W12. The special flavor for it ("blue" in D3 vernacular) isn't available elsewhere. Some use ZF Lifeguard 6 for 4.2's, aka "gold," as the tranny supplier flavor. Underneath it is a std. spec also available elsewhere. Search, or perhaps another member experienced in it will reply. Some also use some fairly generic (and low cost) stuff and swear by it. Personally I would only use dealer, OES, or one confirmed to meet relevant spec by the labelling on the bottle.
Rear diff fluid is pretty standard Audi spec stuff if you search.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 09-18-2017 at 01:52 PM.
09-18-2017, 02:38 PM
#9
AudiWorld Senior Member
[QUOTE=aebarto11;...Whats the story on this common issue with the oil cooler pipe?[/QUOTE]
It's a plastic pipe (located engine passenger side) that cracks over time because of engine heating and cooling. Starts out as a drop and will eventually completely deteriorate, leaving you stranded. Just a bad use of material from factory.
Seems a lot of members, when doing the job will, switch over to Gruven's oil cooler pipe.
Good luck.
It's a plastic pipe (located engine passenger side) that cracks over time because of engine heating and cooling. Starts out as a drop and will eventually completely deteriorate, leaving you stranded. Just a bad use of material from factory.
Seems a lot of members, when doing the job will, switch over to Gruven's oil cooler pipe.
Good luck.
09-18-2017, 03:58 PM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
It's a plastic pipe (located engine passenger side) that cracks over time because of engine heating and cooling. Starts out as a drop and will eventually completely deteriorate, leaving you stranded. Just a bad use of material from factory.
Seems a lot of members, when doing the job will, switch over to Gruven's oil cooler pipe.
Good luck.
Seems a lot of members, when doing the job will, switch over to Gruven's oil cooler pipe.
Good luck.
I was in the area, replacing the front end so I did the oil cooler pipe. Still a PITA but doable. The original "Engineering Grade Composite" was 13 years old with 270,000 miles. It broke like something between an eggshell and pretzel when I had it out and pressed it together with my fingers.