LexusLSguy

I am going to tackle them tonight. I have to admit I am a little nervous but damnit I'm going to do it myself. Best deal on my front 356mm rotors I found is $221 each. Still pisses me off a little. Their is nothing special about them and they should cost $50 each. I am going to use the Centric Posi-quiet ceramic pads that I am using on the back. Probably a bit less bite then OEM but much less dust. Anyone have anything to recommend? I have watched the videos online and everything seems straight forward.

MP4.2+6.0

Sorta same answer as always... audiusaparts, aka Sunset Audi in Oregon. $197.73, including shipping these days and no sales tax in OR.

Do you have a wear sensor on hand? Those can be gotten through non dealer channels for a lot less. For a total of 94 cents, I also replace the little torx screws that keep the rotors on the hub.

LexusLSguy

Do you release the bleed nipple when pushing back the caliper so it pushes that dirty fluid out?

davey_b

Changing pads and rotors is pretty straightforward, I'm sure you'll have a few things that are a bit of a stress but you'll manage. Once you've done the first one the others will be easier. Not sure what it's like on the A8 but on other cars when I've done it you need to open the brake fluid reservoir so that you can wind back the caliper. Good luck

LexusLSguy

That is what I used to do on other vehicles in the past but I have seen multiple tutorials that instruct not to allow this fluid back into the system and ABS module particularly. They claim pushing the caliper back pushes this dirty fluid back pretty far. The fluid around the calipers is especially dirty. I think I may try the nipple method.

MP4.2+6.0

None of the above/below for me. General objective as part of work is to flush/bleed system. Audi spec for fluid change is every two years regardless of miles. And it does collect water over time which degrades performance and can lead to long term corrosion and seal related issues, though maybe more like 10 years out.

The rear calipers are the wind in type, not the fronts. Rears on my D3 would wind themselves in when I opened parking brake so I never had to deal with it as a separate step. In front if I know I am replacing pads I just pry the pad to rotor gap open with a large screwdriver and force the pads outward to full open position.Even better if doing rotors too since you don't care about any marks on them either. You could open bleed screw at that point if you want, but to me one more thing to get in way and I bleed later anyway. Current Audi fluid spec BTW is the low viscosity DOT 4. VW specific spec is also relatively high boiling points wet and dry so I use that. It is not the prior straight DOT4 to be clear, but rather a DOT4 variant that helps ABS and ESP work better at very low outside temperatures.

If you push pistons in further with pads out, then I use a C clamp and a block of wood with loose caliper. Don't just push on one piston if bleed screw is not open, or other one is prone to pop out.

At end, I bleed whole system. Typically takes a full quart/liter can. Rears first, then fronts. Or, front, rear, front if you want to be more **** about it to really clear fluid reservoir--divided in two with old cross diagonal line tie in.

LexusLSguy

Great advice. I do want to do a full fluid change at some point. I did purchase a $12 brake pad spreader tool some months back for this day. I will be sure to take some pics.

A8denver

Just my 2 cents... I have seen first hand 2 ABS pumps fail from dirty fluid pushed back thru system, granted they were both Fords +1 on fluid fluid flush.

LexusLSguy

Well, tonight is going to be another night... But for the better.

I helped a friend first with his rear brakes on a Ford Escape and it was a pian. Lots of rust. Can't believe one of his caliper bolts was loose! And of course it had twist caliper...

Anyway, we pulled off my drivers front to get started and I have a few mm on the inside pad before the sensor. Interesting how both the front and rear wear the inside pads much faster then the outside pads. My rotors look so good I really think I'm going to hone them and just swap the pads. I know this is not traditional but I did the same on my 430 and it basically doubled the life of the rotors. I also want to flush the system at the same time.

MP4.2+6.0

How many miles on your car now? For rotors, typical Audi is two pad sets per rotor change. Thus, if still on factory original pads, you likely can go another round w/ pads only. Best is to mic it and compare against spec to be sure. By eyeball if you see an edge ridge of less than one mm, you are likely within spec now. No need to have them surfaced either if you don't have any vibration. If the 356's are the quasi two piece set ups like the 380's and 400's, at least some machine shops won't touch them due to concerns they won't be able to surface them to run flat.