VCDS DTC Question, MMI Upgrade, Sharp Metal in Window Well, and Tires!
#1
The Transporter
Thread Starter
VCDS DTC Question, MMI Upgrade, Sharp Metal in Window Well, and Tires!
Hello all! A few questions for you all out there..
MMI
I am planning on upgrading my MMI from 1070 to 4610. From what I understand, a few features that were present in 1070 (like the TPMS enable/disable) will "disappear" in 4610; can I get these back by saving the settings from 1070 and putting them into 4610? Or can that be done by going into the "hidden menu" screen on 2G High and enabling Tyre settings? Is there anything else I should be doing with VCDS prior to doing the upgrade to ensure a smooth transition?
VCDS and DTCs / Warnings
I went into the controller #55, "Xenon Range", and found an error code. I reset it, and immediately the code popped back up - but this time, I am getting an error icon popping up on my instrument panel about headlight adjustment being incorrect. I followed the Ross-Tech guide in that I parked the car level, went into adjustment mode, turned on the headlights, and while I didn't adjust the lights manually (as there was no error popping up that I saw) everything else was done as shown. The code keeps popping up after reset, and the error keeps displaying on the screen as I said on the instrument panel - not the main MMI display - but, prior to me resetting the DTC codes in that control module, it was not present.
Any ideas on how to either suppress this code or fix it permanently? There doesn't seem to be any problem with the aiming of the lights as I can see just fine.
SHARP WINDOW WELL METAL - SCRATCHING TINT!
I had the windows tinted last week and, due to our very cold weather, FINALLY felt comfortable that they were dry/finished and could be lowered. Upon raising the driver's window I found to my horror that there was a 1/4" wide, clean tear from the top of the tint to the bottom! I lowered it again and heard a grinding noise that I guess I had never heard when lowering the window pre-tinting. I looked down into the window well with a flashlight and observed a shiny piece of metal protruding from 1-inch below the area where the window slides into the door, and sticking out to a sharp point far enough to press into the window. I suppose this has been there for a while and has scraped against the window every time it went down, I just did not notice it. There was no scratches visible on the glass itself so, going into the tinting, I didn't have any idea. I haven't been able to analyze this rogue piece of metal any further, but I imagine I will need to take the door apart and get into the well and see exactly what this thing is.
Any ideas what that thing might be? Has anyone else seen this before-? It's on the inside of the door, not the outside, so I don't think it's the result of anyone trying to break in / jimmy the vehicle. I pressed on the metal with a screw driver and it didn't budge at all, and with how it has a sharp point it seems like something on the frame that broke and is poking out. At least, this is my uneducated hypothesis. I will see if I can get a photo of it (without removing parts of the door) first and get some input. But something has to be done as I can't get it tinted again without fixing that, and overtime I can imagine it causing damage to the glass or something.
TIRES / SIZING
The tires currently on the vehicle (and almost completely treaded down) are Michelin Pilot Super Sport P255/40ZR19. I don't need the 'Z' rating necessarily and would be happy with 'W', and am looking to save money on a reliable, all-season tire as I live here in Missouri and the summer tires on it don't perform too well anywhere outside the summer time (LOTS of slipping this winter!). Any recommendations? Would P255/40R19 100Ws from Nitto for instance do well? Amazon is saying some of them do not fit the car, but all of the P255/40R19 should fit on my 19" OEM Audi wheels, correct?
I know what some may say - search the forums re: the tires - but I am getting some conflicting information, so any clarity would be appreciated.
Thanks everyone in advance for the help!
MMI
I am planning on upgrading my MMI from 1070 to 4610. From what I understand, a few features that were present in 1070 (like the TPMS enable/disable) will "disappear" in 4610; can I get these back by saving the settings from 1070 and putting them into 4610? Or can that be done by going into the "hidden menu" screen on 2G High and enabling Tyre settings? Is there anything else I should be doing with VCDS prior to doing the upgrade to ensure a smooth transition?
VCDS and DTCs / Warnings
I went into the controller #55, "Xenon Range", and found an error code. I reset it, and immediately the code popped back up - but this time, I am getting an error icon popping up on my instrument panel about headlight adjustment being incorrect. I followed the Ross-Tech guide in that I parked the car level, went into adjustment mode, turned on the headlights, and while I didn't adjust the lights manually (as there was no error popping up that I saw) everything else was done as shown. The code keeps popping up after reset, and the error keeps displaying on the screen as I said on the instrument panel - not the main MMI display - but, prior to me resetting the DTC codes in that control module, it was not present.
Any ideas on how to either suppress this code or fix it permanently? There doesn't seem to be any problem with the aiming of the lights as I can see just fine.
SHARP WINDOW WELL METAL - SCRATCHING TINT!
I had the windows tinted last week and, due to our very cold weather, FINALLY felt comfortable that they were dry/finished and could be lowered. Upon raising the driver's window I found to my horror that there was a 1/4" wide, clean tear from the top of the tint to the bottom! I lowered it again and heard a grinding noise that I guess I had never heard when lowering the window pre-tinting. I looked down into the window well with a flashlight and observed a shiny piece of metal protruding from 1-inch below the area where the window slides into the door, and sticking out to a sharp point far enough to press into the window. I suppose this has been there for a while and has scraped against the window every time it went down, I just did not notice it. There was no scratches visible on the glass itself so, going into the tinting, I didn't have any idea. I haven't been able to analyze this rogue piece of metal any further, but I imagine I will need to take the door apart and get into the well and see exactly what this thing is.
Any ideas what that thing might be? Has anyone else seen this before-? It's on the inside of the door, not the outside, so I don't think it's the result of anyone trying to break in / jimmy the vehicle. I pressed on the metal with a screw driver and it didn't budge at all, and with how it has a sharp point it seems like something on the frame that broke and is poking out. At least, this is my uneducated hypothesis. I will see if I can get a photo of it (without removing parts of the door) first and get some input. But something has to be done as I can't get it tinted again without fixing that, and overtime I can imagine it causing damage to the glass or something.
TIRES / SIZING
The tires currently on the vehicle (and almost completely treaded down) are Michelin Pilot Super Sport P255/40ZR19. I don't need the 'Z' rating necessarily and would be happy with 'W', and am looking to save money on a reliable, all-season tire as I live here in Missouri and the summer tires on it don't perform too well anywhere outside the summer time (LOTS of slipping this winter!). Any recommendations? Would P255/40R19 100Ws from Nitto for instance do well? Amazon is saying some of them do not fit the car, but all of the P255/40R19 should fit on my 19" OEM Audi wheels, correct?
I know what some may say - search the forums re: the tires - but I am getting some conflicting information, so any clarity would be appreciated.
Thanks everyone in advance for the help!
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Recurring theme: what did search tell you for each of your questions? They have been asked and answered many times, and today you will mostly just get today's random answers, whether spot on or elsewhere on spectrum. To be clear, search means with a search engine like Google pointed at a site like AW, not the sub par AW search box. W/ search in hand, variously questions may be answered or you can then focus on remaining questions or variants specific to your car and issue.
MMI: Don't know where you get that conclusion, having written more than a few of those posts/replies. Unknown is the answer to the linkage between TPMS on screen turn off choice and MMI. Some retain it, some (like me) don't. If you lose it, you can still turn on/off w/ VCDS. More generally on MMI upgrades read posts carefully, including disk/copy source. You are off in a corner case scenario to me. One wrong spin of the six shooter and may be all over in Russian Roulette. Not hard to do it right, but some shortcuts with any thinking its just another Windows daily patch or an iPhone app won't be the way to go.
VCDS: lights go up and down to auto level per zillions of posts. Have you confirmed they are moving up and down as you turn them on? If not, something is wrong with those components. You also don't say what error code is, so that's just a guess. Disconnected or broken level sensors on the suspension arms is another. In general with VCDS (or any other program/tool/reader), you don't just suppress codes either. Turning off TPMS entirely to get rid of that is more of an exception case than the general rule for the way Audi electronics work. Again, search can focus you more on your issue, depending on the specific codes.
Window tint scratch: well identified and explained in prior posts, pics and all. You need a new window winder mechanism and install via door disassembly. Search and/or Bentley manual.
Tires: Amazon? New one for me. Type tire size (or vehicle) in TireRack and go from there. Tire size is primarily what matters, but you have to watch the load rating too when dealing with a heavier vehicle like a D3. Usually doesn't come up, but any tire with a speed rating less than an HR for an Audi would not be a good choice. Even if you don't do Mister Bally's 4.2 Bonneville run... Many will have speed ratings well above HR. Again, more deliberate reviews (by them and by owners) are available there than forum du jour answers, whether you buy from them or not. Discussing tires in a forum is about like brake pads, politics and religion--views all over map. Conti DWS-06 is a popular higher end A/S choice for Euro vehicles, and it has some real world light snow capabilities. Good enough for me on D4 S8 for my off summer season tire. Michelins well regarded but pricier. And like religions, some will swear by others too. Sure, gather a few suggestions, but then look at quality sites for tires--like TireRack, not Amazon--for reviews and such that you can tie off against your needs, preferences and price range.
MMI: Don't know where you get that conclusion, having written more than a few of those posts/replies. Unknown is the answer to the linkage between TPMS on screen turn off choice and MMI. Some retain it, some (like me) don't. If you lose it, you can still turn on/off w/ VCDS. More generally on MMI upgrades read posts carefully, including disk/copy source. You are off in a corner case scenario to me. One wrong spin of the six shooter and may be all over in Russian Roulette. Not hard to do it right, but some shortcuts with any thinking its just another Windows daily patch or an iPhone app won't be the way to go.
VCDS: lights go up and down to auto level per zillions of posts. Have you confirmed they are moving up and down as you turn them on? If not, something is wrong with those components. You also don't say what error code is, so that's just a guess. Disconnected or broken level sensors on the suspension arms is another. In general with VCDS (or any other program/tool/reader), you don't just suppress codes either. Turning off TPMS entirely to get rid of that is more of an exception case than the general rule for the way Audi electronics work. Again, search can focus you more on your issue, depending on the specific codes.
Window tint scratch: well identified and explained in prior posts, pics and all. You need a new window winder mechanism and install via door disassembly. Search and/or Bentley manual.
Tires: Amazon? New one for me. Type tire size (or vehicle) in TireRack and go from there. Tire size is primarily what matters, but you have to watch the load rating too when dealing with a heavier vehicle like a D3. Usually doesn't come up, but any tire with a speed rating less than an HR for an Audi would not be a good choice. Even if you don't do Mister Bally's 4.2 Bonneville run... Many will have speed ratings well above HR. Again, more deliberate reviews (by them and by owners) are available there than forum du jour answers, whether you buy from them or not. Discussing tires in a forum is about like brake pads, politics and religion--views all over map. Conti DWS-06 is a popular higher end A/S choice for Euro vehicles, and it has some real world light snow capabilities. Good enough for me on D4 S8 for my off summer season tire. Michelins well regarded but pricier. And like religions, some will swear by others too. Sure, gather a few suggestions, but then look at quality sites for tires--like TireRack, not Amazon--for reviews and such that you can tie off against your needs, preferences and price range.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-15-2018 at 08:12 AM.
#3
The Transporter
Thread Starter
...
MMI: Don't know where you get that conclusion, having written more than a few of those posts/replies. Unknown is the answer to the linkage between TPMS on screen turn off choice and MMI. Some retain it, some (like me) don't. If you lose it, you can still turn on/off w/ VCDS. More generally on MMI upgrades read posts carefully, including disk/copy source. You are off in a corner case scenario to me. One wrong spin of the six shooter and may be all over in Russian Roulette. Not hard to do it right, but some shortcuts with any thinking its just another Windows daily patch or an iPhone app won't be the way to go.
MMI: Don't know where you get that conclusion, having written more than a few of those posts/replies. Unknown is the answer to the linkage between TPMS on screen turn off choice and MMI. Some retain it, some (like me) don't. If you lose it, you can still turn on/off w/ VCDS. More generally on MMI upgrades read posts carefully, including disk/copy source. You are off in a corner case scenario to me. One wrong spin of the six shooter and may be all over in Russian Roulette. Not hard to do it right, but some shortcuts with any thinking its just another Windows daily patch or an iPhone app won't be the way to go.
VCDS: lights go up and down to auto level per zillions of posts. Have you confirmed they are moving up and down as you turn them on? If not, something is wrong with those components. You also don't say what error code is, so that's just a guess. Disconnected or broken level sensors on the suspension arms is another. In general with VCDS (or any other program/tool/reader), you don't just suppress codes either. Turning off TPMS entirely to get rid of that is more of an exception case than the general rule for the way Audi electronics work. Again, search can focus you more on your issue, depending on the specific codes.
Tires: Amazon? New one for me. Type tire size (or vehicle) in TireRack and go from there. Tire size is primarily what matters, but you have to watch the load rating too when dealing with a heavier vehicle like a D3. Usually doesn't come up, but any tire with a speed rating less than an HR for an Audi would not be a good choice. Even if you don't do Mister Bally's 4.2 Bonneville run... Many will have speed ratings well above HR. Again, more deliberate reviews (by them and by owners) are available there than forum du jour answers, whether you buy from them or not. Discussing tires in a forum is about like brake pads, politics and religion--views all over map. Conti DWS-06 is a popular higher end A/S choice for Euro vehicles, and it has some real world light snow capabilities. Good enough for me on D4 S8 for my off summer season tire. Michelins well regarded but pricier. And like religions, some will swear by others too. Sure, gather a few suggestions, but then look at quality sites for tires--like TireRack, not Amazon--for reviews and such that you can tie off against your needs, preferences and price range.
#4
The Transporter
Thread Starter
Oh, by the way MP4.2+6.0, the DTC code for the headlight is 01539 in module 55 (Xenon Range); "01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted" "005 - No or Incorrect Basic Settings / Adaptation - MIL ON"
Thanks
Thanks
#5
The Transporter
Thread Starter
Speaking of MMI, I am getting conflicting information on how to proceed with the installation from various threads in the forum. Can someone who has successfully done this shed some definitive light on the procedure for me? Here's what I've picked up:
I currently have 1070 installed; the upgrade discs I have are 4610 (North America).
*) Upgrade CD #1 in CD slot 1, CD #2 in CD slot 2;
*) Turn off all the electronics I can (ventilation, music, lights interior and exterior, and roll at least the drivers side window down so that I can get into the car/check the progress without triggering any electronics such as the door opening);
*) Either fill up the fuel and keep the car running the entire time, OR plug in a battery charger with positive to positive and negative to the ground near the battery (NOT to the neg terminal on the battery);
*) Start the upgrade process and get out of the car without opening the door (or initiate it by leaning in thru the window);
*) Check on it periodically until it's done;
Now, depending on which thread it is, some people say to NOT upgrade directly from an older version to the latest and to go to an intermediary version first such as my current version 1070 to 3360, then to 4610. Some other threads say that they successfully upgraded from the earlier version such as 1070 to 4610 without any problems. Some threads don't even mention the window rolldown and no triggering of door electronics at all.
Post confirming 1070 to 4610 without problems: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ssues-2823287/
Post that said intermediate: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-.../#post24436604 (plus a few others); although MP4.2+6.0 said that only 4140 needed upgrades to intermediate version between them such as 3360, but that 4610 does NOT. This combined with the above post confirming 1070 to 4610 would seem to indicate this.
I just want to be sure, and would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done this. I cannot find any information from Audi directly about the process that they use to do the upgrade. I wouldn't mind sitting in the car for an hour while the upgrades finish, either, if necessary (with a window down to get out, as one poster put it, 'Dukes of Hazzard style' if something happens).
Thank you in advance!
I currently have 1070 installed; the upgrade discs I have are 4610 (North America).
*) Upgrade CD #1 in CD slot 1, CD #2 in CD slot 2;
*) Turn off all the electronics I can (ventilation, music, lights interior and exterior, and roll at least the drivers side window down so that I can get into the car/check the progress without triggering any electronics such as the door opening);
*) Either fill up the fuel and keep the car running the entire time, OR plug in a battery charger with positive to positive and negative to the ground near the battery (NOT to the neg terminal on the battery);
*) Start the upgrade process and get out of the car without opening the door (or initiate it by leaning in thru the window);
*) Check on it periodically until it's done;
Now, depending on which thread it is, some people say to NOT upgrade directly from an older version to the latest and to go to an intermediary version first such as my current version 1070 to 3360, then to 4610. Some other threads say that they successfully upgraded from the earlier version such as 1070 to 4610 without any problems. Some threads don't even mention the window rolldown and no triggering of door electronics at all.
Post confirming 1070 to 4610 without problems: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ssues-2823287/
Post that said intermediate: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-.../#post24436604 (plus a few others); although MP4.2+6.0 said that only 4140 needed upgrades to intermediate version between them such as 3360, but that 4610 does NOT. This combined with the above post confirming 1070 to 4610 would seem to indicate this.
I just want to be sure, and would appreciate any feedback from someone who has done this. I cannot find any information from Audi directly about the process that they use to do the upgrade. I wouldn't mind sitting in the car for an hour while the upgrades finish, either, if necessary (with a window down to get out, as one poster put it, 'Dukes of Hazzard style' if something happens).
Thank you in advance!
Last edited by a_very_naudi_guy; 02-16-2018 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Provided links of other posts
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Yes, you can go from 1070 to 4610 directly. That is what I did on my 05 W12 way back in the day. I'm pretty sure you have to update on disk at a time via disk player 1 if I remember. That is how I did it. Upgrade disk 1 is the bluetooth clean up and disk 2 is the actual 4610 MMI upgrade.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Attached is the 4610 Audi update related instructions FWIW. They were is a TSB (technical service bulletin), as were the 3360 ones IIRC from many years ago now.
They get seriously hung up on the phone module so take that in stride.
They get seriously hung up on the phone module so take that in stride.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-16-2018 at 07:18 PM.
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#8
The Transporter
Thread Starter
Yes, you can go from 1070 to 4610 directly. That is what I did on my 05 W12 way back in the day. I'm pretty sure you have to update on disk at a time via disk player 1 if I remember. That is how I did it. Upgrade disk 1 is the bluetooth clean up and disk 2 is the actual 4610 MMI upgrade.
#9
The Transporter
Thread Starter
Thank you!
#10
The Transporter
Thread Starter
Also: any input on that module 55 (Xenon Range) "01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted" "005 - No or Incorrect Basic Settings / Adaptation - MIL ON" popping up the aiming error on the central console (not the flip-up MMI screen, but the screen that displays the gear, mileage, etc?) The error was not popping up - despite the DTC being set prior to me clearing it. Immediately after clearing it, and it coming back, I get the error. Is there some kind of code that can be set that 'suppresses' this error? Somehow it was suppressed as this was not popping up prior to me resetting it. Something must've happened to prevent this from displaying.
Thanks guys,
- Naudi Guy
Thanks guys,
- Naudi Guy