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Control module for rear lid opening (virtual pedal)
Hi, Due to corrosion of the pins in both connectors I ordered to Audi a new module, code is 3AA 962 243 H. It came yesterday, this morning I mounted but it is not working. Pls find below the error:
OBDeleven data log Date: 2023-04-14 18:44 VIN: WAUZZZF44JA031899 Car: Audi A4 Allroad Year: 2018 Body type: Avant Engine: DETB Mileage: 96776 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 46 Comfort System
Trouble codes: B13034A - Control module for rear lid opening Incorrect component installed static Date: 2023-04-14 11:53:17 Mileage: 96776 km Priority: 5 Malfunction frequency counter: 1 Unlearning counter: 3 Dynamic environmental data: 3A3E2DDC2DF72DC017501B010A1004E000000000008B009B01 000000220000000001175500000000
The new module has the same code as the old one, just the production year is different. Is it a coding problem, any advice? Can I solve myself with Obdeleven, without going to an Audi workshop?
Thank you.
Stefan
The workshop manual says for the J938 (power rear lid opening control module, the thing you replaced on the bumper), there is a "replace" computer operation to perform after a physical replacement. So one would assume there's some kind of adaptation or basic setting operation to perform.
Thank you.
I looked in both Basic Settings and Adaptation menu but the things are not very suggestive there and my experience is none. I have also asked the Audi dealer who sold me the module for support and they told me that an Adaptation should be made. I have not asked for an appointment yet....
Yeah, I don't know. This is the bs in the workshop manuals where it's all "run guided fault finding" instead of actual documentation. The only thing that looks interesting in the screencaps is that "control module rear lid opening, dataset". But worse than not having documentation of what operation to run is not having documentation of how to run that operation correctly. It's also possible the necessary action is a compound operation of several actions. This is one of those things with the change to UDS, where the diag tool is where all the understanding is and the vehicle just advertises the available basic actions.
Hi, I solved it. I discovered by mistake that I saved with Obdeleven the dataset of the old lid module. I just replaced all those "analysis" values from the picture with the old ones, I saved and the error was gone and the functionality restored. I'm very happy that I didn't give up and insisted. Now I have to figure out how to prevent the water/moist entering again into the connectors. The solution I applied to the old one - with silicone arround the connectors - didn't work well. Cheers.
Now I have to figure out how to prevent the water/moist entering again into the connectors. The solution I applied to the old one - with silicone arround the connectors - didn't work well. Cheers.
Silicone - as in a silicone compound that is room temperature vulcanizing (like silicone seal)? That is a poor choice in part because the RTV silicone commonly uses acetic acid as a vulcanizing agent which is bad for electrical connections. It is also a hassle if you do need to make a repair. A better choice is to get some silicone grease (also called silicone dielectric grease or tune up grease which causes a higher price than just plain silicone grease). Once the electrical plug connections have been cleaned, pack the male and female plug bodies with silicone grease and then connect the plugs allowing excess grease to squeeze out. This may not be a forever repair because given enough time silicone grease will lose its volatile carriers and dry out. However, for 5 or 6 years it will keep moisture away from the electrical terminals and clean up and replacement will be easy.
Note that silicone grease does not improve electrical connections. The electrical terminals inside the plugs have to be clean and make a good connection. If the terminals are dirty or damaged, slathering them with silicone grease is not going to make life better.
Yes, I used silicone compund. The electric terminals and the connectors are new also, the old ones were too affected by corrosion. Thank you, I'll follow your advice and use silicone grease.
That web page description of the differences between dielectric and non dielectric greases is pseudo scientific tripe (the author has a Master of Fine Arts - aka a web content producer). Chatgpt would probably have done a better job of parroting something that it didn't really understand. The distinction in the 'chemical properties' about silicone grease curing to a hard form is crap. General use silicone grease does not intentionally cure. Silicone grease (whether it has the dielectric pre fix or not) will age out leaving just the thickener - just like good old axle grease will eventually age out.
Unless it has specific adders to convert it into a conducting grease, just about all greases will satisfy the requirement for meeting the rather bastardized term dielectric (air is a dielectric). Packing hydro carbon based axle grease into your electrical connectors will satisfy the 'dielectric' insulation requirements just fine; but hydro carbon based greases are generally not plastic friendly. Vaseline will do in a pinch but, is neither rubber friendly or very durable. Silicone greases do the job nicely because they are generally rubber / plastic friendly and quite often have volatiles which are not so volatile so they stick around for a while. Silicone pool pump o ring grease, silicone O ring assembly grease, dry suit / wet suit zipper grease or 'tune up' grease, pick your poison - silicone O ring assembly grease seems to have the best price point.
Dielectric implies nothing more than not conductive, ie insulating, which is an aspect necessary for this application. Plastic friendly is certainly a concern. Another reference to "synthetic hydrocarbon grease", but specifically for electrical connectors: https://www.nyelubricants.com/avoid-...ls-with-grease
That's too bad that a long term grease for the application might not actually exist, but can't say that's surprising. Defying time tends to be excessively expensive.
Another commentary on silicone grease in a dielectric application: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/t...#post-11642003
Of course, none of that boils down to a "just use this, gets it done, no problems, lasts reasonable long" product recommendation. I have to do plugs soon, but not replacing the coils this time (which come with the dielectric pre-applied inside the boot). Will just use the same couple of bucks permatex dielectric tune-up grease tube from the past many years.
But why are you needing to manipulate that connector anyway. It's on the outside, so Audi is going to have the seals on the conductors and the seal on the connector surround. Is the issue with the plug from the wiring harness or from the aerial? The aerial plug appears to be a proper weather proof plug as Audi uses in many places in the engine bay and elsewhere:
04-14-2023, 08:15 AM
Control module for rear lid opening (virtual pedal)
