A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

Gas pump or guage problem ??

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Old May 6, 2000 | 04:44 AM
  #1  
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Default Gas pump or guage problem ??

Just picked up my 2.7T on Monday, and as the gas guage reached the red zone my car started to putter, and eventually die. After the car was towed to the dealership, the mechanics checked that there was fuel in the tank. (Around 12 litres), but the gas wasn't getting to the Engine. Another problem was the onboard computer wasn't reporting the low trim level.

The mechanics think it is the height of the pump or a transfer valve, has anybody had a similar experience. I love the car this experience has definitely soured my opinion of the factory QC.
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Old May 6, 2000 | 01:02 PM
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Default Look below for posts regarding the three sensors in the fuel tank.....

There has been some kind of redesign it sounds like. Or use the forums search feature.
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Old May 6, 2000 | 05:53 PM
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Default Re: Gas pump or guage problem ??

I've got the same problem and I've been told by a friend he had it too. It's a sensor issue that the dealer can perm. fix.
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Old May 6, 2000 | 07:57 PM
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Default Clarification?

Did your engine quit when the needle first reached the 1/8 level on the fuel gauge (where the markings first turn red)? If so, and the tank had about 12 litres still in it, it sounds like the gauge was reading correctly. Also, on my car at least, the warning light comes on shortly after the 1/8 level is reached.

While A6's have a well-known problem with the fuel sending units, which has apparently been fixed with redesigned parts, this doesn't sound like your problem. In your case, you apparently still had fuel but it wasn't being picked up. That sounds like a problem with the pickup tube in the tank or maybe with the mechanism for equalizing fuel levels in the two sides of the tank. My guess is that you'll end up with a new tank and all will be well.

Incidentally, did your dealership deliver the car with a low level of fuel in it? Most give you a full tank.

I hope that this problem will soon be behind you and that your future ownership experience is all positive!
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Old May 6, 2000 | 08:48 PM
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Re: Look below for posts regarding the three sensors in the fuel tank.....
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Old May 7, 2000 | 03:37 AM
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Default Re: Clarification?

The car actually started to lose power (putter) around 5 or six minutes of highway driving before it ultimately stopped. The first round I heard a whirring sound, and thought it was the car next to me. After pulling over, the problem seemed to resolve itself, until later. I called the dealer and he told me not to worry, and keep on driving.

The dealer delivered the car with a full tank of gas, so this is the first time this problem would come up.
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Old May 8, 2000 | 05:29 PM
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Default Re: Clarification?

When a car runs out of fuel, at first the power becomes a little "soft," and then it quits altogether. The "soft" phase lasts only a few moments (maybe 15-20 seconds at most?). On my old Porsche 356 with reserve switch, if you were really quick you could change over to the reserve before the car quit altogether.

Your 5-6 minute period suggests to me that you had a problem that (temporarily) resolved itself and then recurred. Coupled with the whirring sound, I'd guess the problem involved the mechanism that equalizes the fuel level in both sides of the tank. In other words, you started running out on the side with the fuel intake even though the other side still had enough. Then the equalizing system came to the rescue, but only briefly before failing again.

This is a good bit speculative since, without a shop manual, I'm not sure what sort of mechanism distributes the fuel. Hopefully your dealer can track it down easily. Let us know what the verdict is!
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Old May 12, 2000 | 04:37 PM
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Default Final Resolution

As it turned out the problem was in the transfer tube between the fuel tank cells, as well as the valve. The valve was leaking, and not transfering the fuel properly. As far as the sensors go, they seem to have been working corectly.

The tube and the "booster" were the parts that required replacement.
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