A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

S6 brake pad follow up

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Old May 12, 2003 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
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Default S6 brake pad follow up

At rally's suggestion, I called Andy Porterfield today. (Andy referred me to Tim, his Audi expert.) They make a kevlar street pad (w/o wear sensors) for this car which they sell for $359 (front only). When I said "ouch" to the price, he said he could give me a discount to $329. Still, this is a far cry from the $95 I paid for the Mintex and more than I want to pay just to see if I like them better.

I still don't like the brakes, but I can live with them, especially since this is not my track car. And hey, NO DUST! I can live with that.

Question: if my rear pads are not very worn (only 9k miles of moderate street driving) do you think I will I need the special tool to retract the pistons to change the rear pads?

Andy
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Old May 12, 2003 | 01:05 PM
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Default Re: rear brakes

You will probably need to push them back.
If you are carefull you can press them back with a c-clamp and while rotating with big pliers. Mind the rubber seal around the piston. I did this on my rears that were about 75% worn, I should have gone and gotten the tool for the trouble of turning them back so far. After replacing rear pads pull the handbrake several times to adjust them.
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Old May 12, 2003 | 02:30 PM
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Default Might as well spend the twelve bucks...

even if the pistons go in easy it will be twelve bucks well spent if your in the middle of the job and you need the tool. My S4 was tough and needed air behind the tool to retract the pistons. I let the dealer do the S6.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 08:27 AM
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Default You need the tool +

Did my 2000 A6 4.2 two days ago. Backs about 60% worn. Tool was a real requirement. I had the $10 Kragen universal variety (square shapped) and had to file it to get it to fit (barely big enough on the largest two pin side). I also had to put a brake piston retractor tool on top of it (usually used with front brakes--same idea as a C clamp but from the inside instead of the outside) to apply pressure, while turning the tool w/ a one inch open end wrench. The trick is turning it WHILE getting it to go in; there is no automatic ratchet in type feature. Once you get the tool(s) right, it takes 5 minutes per caliper to retract.

I've done it before on an older Audi with the C clamp and channel type pliers method--don't recommend it. It's not easy to turn, the pliers will mark up the piston edge and likely cut the rubber dust seal. I also have had to open up the bleed screw with the pliers method to reduce the effort needed which makes it messy.
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