Need Brake/Rotor Replacement Advice
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Need Brake/Rotor Replacement Advice
I recently bought a 2000 A6 2.8Q with 24,000mi. and really love the car as it is fully loaded. After 4,000mi. I noticed that the front shimmies when I brake, so I figure it is time to replace the rotors and brakes. I tried to find a Hayes manual so I could do the work myself, but no one seems to have one and the only source I seem to find are people selling CD versions for $10-20.
Does anyone have specific steps or a URL for average car owner to remove and replace rotors and brake pads? Also, what are the best rotors and pads (front / rear) for my car?
Besides the brakes, one other minor thing I noticed is that the battery charge gauge shows the car at about 14+, is this really bad? I talked to the local Audi dealership tech and he said that is fine as long as it doesn't go 16 and stay there. I was just curious because it has been like that for a few weeks now and only moves a hair if I turn lights, defrost, etc. on.
Lastly, what type of upgrades can I do to my A6? I am totally new to being an Audi owner and not sure of things I need to be concerned about or what I should replace first as a necessity. Thanks all.
Does anyone have specific steps or a URL for average car owner to remove and replace rotors and brake pads? Also, what are the best rotors and pads (front / rear) for my car?
Besides the brakes, one other minor thing I noticed is that the battery charge gauge shows the car at about 14+, is this really bad? I talked to the local Audi dealership tech and he said that is fine as long as it doesn't go 16 and stay there. I was just curious because it has been like that for a few weeks now and only moves a hair if I turn lights, defrost, etc. on.
Lastly, what type of upgrades can I do to my A6? I am totally new to being an Audi owner and not sure of things I need to be concerned about or what I should replace first as a necessity. Thanks all.
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Tech section
The tech section here has a number of writeups on replaceing brakes. A6, A4, and TT brake replacements are all virtually identical, so any of those writeups will work for you.
Your voltmeter is just fine at 14V. Your tech was correct, anything ove 16 would indicate a bad regulator.
Your voltmeter is just fine at 14V. Your tech was correct, anything ove 16 would indicate a bad regulator.
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Joined: May 2001
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Are you certain that the pads are worn to the point where you really need replacements. If they
still have some life left (pad thickness is equal or greater than that of the backing plate), you could try bedding-in the brakes. This has worked for me to eliminate shimmy, noise, and grabbiness.
You need to do 6 - 8 hard stops (just short of invoking the ABS) from like 60 - 5 mph. If you can do it from higher speeds (70 or even 80 mph down to 5) that is even better. Read the write-up on StopTech's website (white paper), but essentially you do these hard stops back to back without coming to a full stop and after the last one you need to drive around until the brakes cool. It's important not to stop, esp if you have a tip as holding the very hot pads against the very hot rotors will cause an "imprint" of the pad material on the rotor and create a high spot that is likely to be causing your current shimmy.
It's hard to find a place sometimes, esp if you live in the city. The pads will be smoking after this bedding-in, but it won't hurt them. Afterwards, you will think you had new brakes installed. If your pads are worn below 3mm (backing plate is usually 4 mm thick), then you should just get new pads and rotors.
You need to do 6 - 8 hard stops (just short of invoking the ABS) from like 60 - 5 mph. If you can do it from higher speeds (70 or even 80 mph down to 5) that is even better. Read the write-up on StopTech's website (white paper), but essentially you do these hard stops back to back without coming to a full stop and after the last one you need to drive around until the brakes cool. It's important not to stop, esp if you have a tip as holding the very hot pads against the very hot rotors will cause an "imprint" of the pad material on the rotor and create a high spot that is likely to be causing your current shimmy.
It's hard to find a place sometimes, esp if you live in the city. The pads will be smoking after this bedding-in, but it won't hurt them. Afterwards, you will think you had new brakes installed. If your pads are worn below 3mm (backing plate is usually 4 mm thick), then you should just get new pads and rotors.
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Re: Are you certain that the pads are worn to the point where you really need replacements. If they
Thanks for the bedding info, and the Stoney Links all. I will read through them and try the bedding down Rt.70 on the way home (should be fun during rush hour traffic going 80 - 5, 6-8 times) 
As for my original question, I looked through a lot of the forum and some of Stoney's stuff and found mention of Mintex Red for pads and sometype of Slotted Rotors for my A6 2.8Q. Are these the best solutions as nothing in the forum jumps out for my car (lots of 4.2s or A4/S4s though). Are S6 the same thing as an A6?
Thanks for helping me with my ignorance - trying to learn as much as I can with this car and what I can do with it.
As for my original question, I looked through a lot of the forum and some of Stoney's stuff and found mention of Mintex Red for pads and sometype of Slotted Rotors for my A6 2.8Q. Are these the best solutions as nothing in the forum jumps out for my car (lots of 4.2s or A4/S4s though). Are S6 the same thing as an A6?
Thanks for helping me with my ignorance - trying to learn as much as I can with this car and what I can do with it.
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Re: Need Brake/Rotor Replacement Advice
<center><img src="http://www.qis.net/~jpaschall//A6%20Avant_small2.jpg"></center><p>
I just ordered new frt cross drilled/slotted rotors(std rotors were on B/O)and std rear rotors from ECS for my 99 Avant. Dont buy cheap rotors they will warp if you brake hard and do not release the pads after you come to a stop. I like the EBC green's so I ordered them from tire rack, but I have heard that the hawk pads that ECS sells are also good for the street. If you have ever replaced pads before you should have no problem. If you want to continue to use the front front brake wear sensors you should check and determine if you have the sqaure or U shaped connector for the pads. The EBC's come with the U shaped. Its a simple job and I plan on doing mine this weekend. I used a long plumbers wrench to push back the piston, but a C clamp would work much better. Dont forget to get some brake grease to lubricate your carrier bolts. And definetly follow the bed in procedures. While you have the front rotors off take a look at the tie rod ends and balljoints. I am also replacing a tie rod end this weekend after a quick inspection when I mounted my winter tires. As for the charging system mine always says 14+ volts.
Have fun!
I just ordered new frt cross drilled/slotted rotors(std rotors were on B/O)and std rear rotors from ECS for my 99 Avant. Dont buy cheap rotors they will warp if you brake hard and do not release the pads after you come to a stop. I like the EBC green's so I ordered them from tire rack, but I have heard that the hawk pads that ECS sells are also good for the street. If you have ever replaced pads before you should have no problem. If you want to continue to use the front front brake wear sensors you should check and determine if you have the sqaure or U shaped connector for the pads. The EBC's come with the U shaped. Its a simple job and I plan on doing mine this weekend. I used a long plumbers wrench to push back the piston, but a C clamp would work much better. Dont forget to get some brake grease to lubricate your carrier bolts. And definetly follow the bed in procedures. While you have the front rotors off take a look at the tie rod ends and balljoints. I am also replacing a tie rod end this weekend after a quick inspection when I mounted my winter tires. As for the charging system mine always says 14+ volts.
Have fun!
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