cd changer
thanks!
Vehicle: 2001 tt coupe
Standard radio,
Supply requirements
1. Changer/bracket/cable itself
Option 1: purchase an Audi brand changer. Clair has it for $299. Plugs right into the car, no electrical adapter cable needed.
Logo is Audi
You will need steel mounting bracket: an very odd shaped bracket that fits in the pre-drilled holes in the car body. Clair has it $26
This is what I did.
Option 2: purchase a Panasonic CDXP-610. Cheaper than Clair. Crutchfield has it for $269. Other internet sites have it for significantly less.
You will still need the above bracket, (not available from crutchfield.)
Logo is Panasonic.
Panasonic logo changers have a different electrical connector, so you will also need an adapter cable, crutchfield has it for $30. Part # 541AUPAN98
The plug that is pre-wired into the car is an unusual 13-pin round plug, even if you wanted to make a home brew cable, I don't know where you could find a matching jack. And there is very little slack in the car's cable to work with, anyway.
As far as I know, no one place has the cdxp610, plus adapter cable ,plus bracket.
2. Parts kit: a few speed nuts and screws, nothing you couldn't get at your local hardware store. Came w the changer, in the carton.
3. Software to recode your radio to accept the cd changer. My car worked fine, however, with no recoding necessary. Yet the Audi directions says it's required, and the Clair person told me the same... Who knows?
4. Audi technical bulletin. Number 99-02 giving directions. This is essential for you to know the location of the clips that hold in the trim panel. Otherwise, its relatively straightforward. But no longer available from the Audi site. There may be other sources for it
5. posting from Audi world, available at the author's website: boxybutgood.com/temp/changer
describing the installation in great detail, good enough detail also that you probably don't need the Audi technical bulletin. Includes a photo of the trim panel showing clip location, which is the most important piece of info for the whole project.
6. Tools: just a deep 17 mm socket( for the seat latch pin), Allen wrench to re-install seat pin. 10 mm socket wrench for screws,
Installation itself.
1. Remove the rear seat bottom. Easy and necessary.
2. Optional: Removal of the rear seat back/seat belt is quite a bit more tedious, and not necessary. I didn't do it. It made trim panel removal-installation only a little bit more complicated.
3. Remove Trim Panel. (this is the only slightly complicated part

Eight identical metal spring clips hold the trim panel. Each clip enters into matching holes punched directly in the car body, Each clip is attached to the panel by a plastic holder that is part of the panel. To remove trim panel , just pull the 8 clips straight out of car body.
With seat back in place, when I pulled the trim panel out, 2 of the clips stayed in the body-punched holes, and disconnected from their holders on the trim panel. No big deal to remove them later from the body holes, and put them back in the panel. You can see the clips and their matching holes for the reinstallation, so its not hard to see or feel each one pop back in.
4. No need to disconnect the battery.
As soon as I plugged in the cable, only half way through the installation, the changer started making noises, electrical motors turned, and after a minute or so it setled down.
When I put the key in to test it, the radio source button changed. Previously, it said tape or tuner. Now it says tape to CD to tuner, with nothing at all done on my part. The battery was connected the whole time (no need to disconnect it at all) And no Vag-com or other software coding at all.
Job done, quick and easy.
Melvin Gale



