How to identify a solid lifter head?

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Jun 19, 2005 | 12:54 AM

RedBelliedJet

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How to identify a solid lifter head?

I have found a head which is supposed to be a direct replacement for a WX head. I have also found a Shrick 272 cam which is milled to fit a solid lifter head. My question is the following: How can I make sure that the new head is a solid lifter head before I install the Schrick cam? Are there any identifying features that can make me sure that I will not do damage by installing this cam? The casting number on the side of the head is 035-103-373C.

Thanks,

Jun 19, 2005 | 11:37 AM

rally4s

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Re: How to identify a solid lifter head?

The "C" casting could be solid lifters head.Before you go for it check distributor mount, could be for "short" type distributor (problem). If is with valves it will be hard to recognize w/o removing
valve spring. If this is the one from Ebay few weeks ago it is a solid lifters head, but again check ignition distributor mount.
Going back to solid or hydraulic lifter - in opening were valve lifter is moving up and down on the top of valve assembly you will have at list one oil jet in side wall to supply oil to hydraulic lifter. There are also some times two jets connected via grove cut in side wall. In case of solid lifters holes for jets will be pluged.
I hope this help.
272 cam is very mild cam for Ur Quattro. If ignition distributor checks out OK remember to readjust valve clearance after you change cam shaft. It is not bolt on swap. I also strongly suggest to check valve clearance and readjust if necessary after about first 1000 miles.
Good Luck.

Jun 19, 2005 | 12:27 PM

RedBelliedJet

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Re: How to identify a solid lifter head?

Nope, this isn't the one from ebay (although I was watching that one too). Specifically, how should the mounting for the distributor look different, since I don't have a hydraulic head to compare it with.

Thanks

Jun 20, 2005 | 03:31 AM

andrews1802

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i,m the one who got ebay head

and there is a problem with the distributer,i should have check it out more .ill post a pick,should get here today.

Jun 20, 2005 | 07:03 AM

rally4s

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Re: How to identify a solid lifter head?

Casting numbers are same (I think) so there is a worning.I do not know how to explain this thing with ignition distributor, I try. In early days Audi used distributors with short shaft. Whole assembly was shorter than late, newer version.When you look on head from spark plugs/distribiutor side you will notice that there is left and right (this is best I can describe) distributor mounts.Claw which holds this thing in place and stud for nut to fasten in place will be positioned left to distributor indicates usualy that this is the long, late version assembly. Same thing to the right indicates possible problem.On head with short distr. you will also notice reinforcement lip/ridge attached to opening for distr. shaft.
I know that old short distributors are very hard to find. Do not know or can be modified to work with Hitachi Ur Quattro ECU. I belive that pick-up inside sends 5 signals per revolution insted of one.I hope this explains.

Jun 21, 2005 | 07:21 AM

MontrealUrQ

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272 cam is not a turbo cam...

I think you will find that it is not mild at all when used on a turbo motor. Excessive overlap takes away the low end power. It should scream up high, if you can make the engine breathe. I am hoping this is the case, since I am way behind on a big valve KH head swap on my urq. The cam in it is a Shrick 272. I don't really care about the low end, though.

I am told that KH hydro heads off 84-85 5000 Turbos bolt right up to WX blocks. Any day now I should be able to confirm this since that is what is sitting in my garage waiting impatiently to go.

Re: reground cam to fit solid lifter heads, I think solid lifter cams may have a bigger base circle than hyrdro cams, so if you have a regrind, you will likely have a smaller base circle. As a result, you will have to tighten up the valves a bit.

Jun 21, 2005 | 03:23 PM

RedBelliedJet

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Re: 272 cam is not a turbo cam...Ideas?

I had heard that this cam would marginally improve low end torque and really improve the high end. What's the consensus on this. Is anyone running this setup? If so, would you do it or leave the stock cam in. I am looking for more power, sure, but drivability is dominantly important to me.

Thanks for all the great input