hajami

Getting ready to order some parts for the upcoming head gasket job. Figured might as well re-do the head.

Should I use OEM head bolts or the ARP head studs?

Any need to replace the valve lifters and keepers? How about the valves? I was going to do the guides anyway.

I'm going to have the head cleaned (hot-tanked) and checked. Will do the cam seal since its apart.

Anything else I should consider doing?

The car has 194k miles on it, T-belt done at 184k.

Anyone have a RS2 manifold they want to sell for cheap so I can do it while the head is out

chefbob

I would get arp studs, therefore if you take the head off again, at least you can reuse those, also, I went with bigger exhaust valves, if you are considering going down that slippery slope, no better time to do them once you have the head off. also maybe a port and polish.

tpierce

replace the lifters, valve seals, etc. The valves themselves should be fine as long as they are not damaged, same goes with the valve springs. Now, since you have everything apart already, i would do a full timing belt job, tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. At the very least, replace the timing belt and anything you didn't replace 10k ago, it's cheap insurance.

hajami

right?

hajami

but I do see your point about doing them now since its all apart.

chefbob

I don't know

S4-Fireblade

Sometimes I can hear a little tick-tick(maybe on the 1st/2nd cilinder valve's lifters) then it goes away... Anoyes me a lot! I think the fact that I started using the Mobil 0w/50 also had some influence on that. Take the head to a machine shop, ask them to reduce valve seat surface to 1mm with 3 angles. This valve mod comes on the Mitsubishi Evolution 8.

squidix9

<center><img src="http://members.verizon.net/~vze4phja/images/headbottomsm.jpg"></center><p>What did you use?

There's not a whole lot of extra room on that head to do that.

Depending on how much bigger, I suppose you could get away without machining the head, but in any case the seats would have to be redone.

I may be missing something, but I'm not aware of bigger 20V valves off the shelf for that motor. They're kind of an odd dimension with the diameter of the stem vs. the diameter of the head. The keeper is an odd size too.

<img src="http://members.verizon.net/~vze4phja/images/valvesm.jpg">

I was looking into replacing them with race valves on my 20V NA, but it would have meant having them custom made. The expense just wasn't worth it.