Front Brake Caliper type? 95 90QS
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Front Brake Caliper type? 95 90QS
Are these considered free floating or fixed type on the front of a 95 Audi 90 Quattro. I know they have 2 pistons and a carrier and slide pins.
The car just got 4 new rotors and pads 1,400 miles ago, Dad did the fronts While I was gone and they do nothing but squeak after few minutes of driving and I hear them shudder just driving and it will go away sometimes or when I light tap the brake pedal. There is a vibration lately when I apply the brake pedal also. Dad said the front slider pins were frozen when he took it apart and there wobbly when he installed them. The brakes were totally gone for a long time and the rears are fine.
Do you normally have to replace the carriers with the slider pin after 16 years? I don't know much when it comes to these on Audi's some times the car pulls to the left and other times it don't without applying the brakes. I ordered everything from German auto parts when I did the one wheel bearing and both front struts. The fronts really squeak sometimes the left will stay squeaking then go away and then the right front will start.
Thanks if someone can point to me what to look for when I get a chance to pull the front wheels off.
Duane, MI
The car just got 4 new rotors and pads 1,400 miles ago, Dad did the fronts While I was gone and they do nothing but squeak after few minutes of driving and I hear them shudder just driving and it will go away sometimes or when I light tap the brake pedal. There is a vibration lately when I apply the brake pedal also. Dad said the front slider pins were frozen when he took it apart and there wobbly when he installed them. The brakes were totally gone for a long time and the rears are fine.
Do you normally have to replace the carriers with the slider pin after 16 years? I don't know much when it comes to these on Audi's some times the car pulls to the left and other times it don't without applying the brakes. I ordered everything from German auto parts when I did the one wheel bearing and both front struts. The fronts really squeak sometimes the left will stay squeaking then go away and then the right front will start.
Thanks if someone can point to me what to look for when I get a chance to pull the front wheels off.
Duane, MI
Last edited by duanevw; Jan 19, 2012 at 02:36 AM.
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From: Irwin, PA
It is a floating caliper, as the pistons are on one side so the caliper must float.
When I first got my wife's '93 one pin of the 2 had been stuck for so long that it had been bent from the braking force twisting the caliper. I was too cheap to buy a new carrier to get the new pins, so I straightened it and thoroughly greased them with silicone brake grease and replaced the pin boots. That was also the cause of excessive pedal travel. One indication of sticky pins would be the pads wearing in a wedge shape, front to back.
Some easy things you can do while you have the wheel off are making sure the pistons retract without goliath force, and change the brake fluid while you are in there. They sell seal and boot kits for those calipers if the pistons are hard to move.
When I first got my wife's '93 one pin of the 2 had been stuck for so long that it had been bent from the braking force twisting the caliper. I was too cheap to buy a new carrier to get the new pins, so I straightened it and thoroughly greased them with silicone brake grease and replaced the pin boots. That was also the cause of excessive pedal travel. One indication of sticky pins would be the pads wearing in a wedge shape, front to back.
Some easy things you can do while you have the wheel off are making sure the pistons retract without goliath force, and change the brake fluid while you are in there. They sell seal and boot kits for those calipers if the pistons are hard to move.
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
When I go to junkyards, straight pins and especially the rubber boots sealing them are takie-takie items. I think you can still buy the pins and boots from Audi. Getting the brakes off/on requires a donor 17? 14? MM open end wrench that you grind somewhat flat so you can hold the pin in place while tightening down the retaining nut. You can also use it on the front sway bar link I think. What happens is, a standard width 17mm or whatever size the pin side is, is too wide when the caliper nut is tightened down. So you hold the pin with the wide wrench, tighten and then, you can't get the wrench out. You pull the wrench to and fro to get it out. It thus bends the seal lip on the pin, or tears the boot, water gets into pin. Rust happens. Same deal on the sway bar links. Boot tears. Tappet wrench is what you want but dammed if anyone still sells those in metric. I made my own with a grinder.
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When I go to junkyards, straight pins and especially the rubber boots sealing them are takie-takie items. I think you can still buy the pins and boots from Audi. Getting the brakes off/on requires a donor 17? 14? MM open end wrench that you grind somewhat flat so you can hold the pin in place while tightening down the retaining nut. You can also use it on the front sway bar link I think. What happens is, a standard width 17mm or whatever size the pin side is, is too wide when the caliper nut is tightened down. So you hold the pin with the wide wrench, tighten and then, you can't get the wrench out. You pull the wrench to and fro to get it out. It thus bends the seal lip on the pin, or tears the boot, water gets into pin. Rust happens. Same deal on the sway bar links. Boot tears. Tappet wrench is what you want but dammed if anyone still sells those in metric. I made my own with a grinder.
Thanks for the info
Last edited by duanevw; Jan 20, 2012 at 07:29 AM.
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Doesn't help much now... but for next time here's a supplier for those thin wrenches. They make them in MM and Standard both.
http://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-Piece.../dp/B000XETKYU
http://www.amazon.com/V8-Tools-Piece.../dp/B000XETKYU
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From: Central Idaho
When I replaced my front caliper with rebuilds from Cardone they tossed in a bag of new pins as spares so now I have a complete extra set of 4. I reused my carriers which are only a few years old so I am set for a long time.
For the price [$60, phosphate coated after core refund] it was a no-brainer as my calipers were original, very crusty and although they did not leak the piston boot was looking very thin and worn. It was just a matter of time before it broke.
For the price [$60, phosphate coated after core refund] it was a no-brainer as my calipers were original, very crusty and although they did not leak the piston boot was looking very thin and worn. It was just a matter of time before it broke.
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When I replaced my front caliper with rebuilds from Cardone they tossed in a bag of new pins as spares so now I have a complete extra set of 4. I reused my carriers which are only a few years old so I am set for a long time.
For the price [$60, phosphate coated after core refund] it was a no-brainer as my calipers were original, very crusty and although they did not leak the piston boot was looking very thin and worn. It was just a matter of time before it broke.
For the price [$60, phosphate coated after core refund] it was a no-brainer as my calipers were original, very crusty and although they did not leak the piston boot was looking very thin and worn. It was just a matter of time before it broke.
Do you think its better and cheaper just to go this route for the fronts as you mentioned? The rears are fine with the new rotors and pads I installed,I just don't want to waste money doing just the carriers and pins and if it still has the problems. I just know the previous owner let everything go and thats why she sold car.
Thanks Duane
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From: Central Idaho
I bought the rear rebuilds from rockauto as they had the best price and actually had both sides in stock. B4 Quattro rears are rare and nobody had them.
For the fronts I actually bought them locally at O'reilly's as the price was about the same as rockauto and I could drop the cores off locally and save shipping.
The cost to ship the fronts which are heavy would have been around 20 bucks if not more.
I totally redid my brakes this past summer. All new rotors, calipers, lines and pads.
Total price when done and I did all the work was <$500.
For the fronts I actually bought them locally at O'reilly's as the price was about the same as rockauto and I could drop the cores off locally and save shipping.
The cost to ship the fronts which are heavy would have been around 20 bucks if not more.
I totally redid my brakes this past summer. All new rotors, calipers, lines and pads.
Total price when done and I did all the work was <$500.
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From: Central Idaho
What website did you go through for the Cardone replacements? Can I can I get the carriers also through them?
Do you think its better and cheaper just to go this route for the fronts as you mentioned? The rears are fine with the new rotors and pads I installed,I just don't want to waste money doing just the carriers and pins and if it still has the problems. I just know the previous owner let everything go and thats why she sold car.
Thanks Duane
Do you think its better and cheaper just to go this route for the fronts as you mentioned? The rears are fine with the new rotors and pads I installed,I just don't want to waste money doing just the carriers and pins and if it still has the problems. I just know the previous owner let everything go and thats why she sold car.
Thanks Duane
For the fronts yes because they are reasonable in price at around $60 whereas if you were to purchase them new from AZ more around $230 each. The fronts are much more common due to 10+ year span. My rear brakes were not only crusty but the E-brake levers were both frozen solid. They usually offer a loaded package with new carriers if yours are in bad shape, I skipped it as I did not need them.
I am showing 80 bucks at O'reilly's for loaded with carrier. Carriers alone are $56 each so this is a good deal. Check around, autozone has them as well for the same price give or take. Might not be a bad idea to replace the rubber line to the caliper since it makes it much easier.
The line to the hardline at the holder can be tricky to remove but you will find adding the new line to the caliper and then attaching it will be much easier as you cannot spin the line around unless you disconnect it from the metal line.
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