So, I have had it for a month and it is running well as of 48 hours ago. Today was the first chance really to see what else is wrong that I'll mess with. Hopefully some of these will be in the category of things you folks will know what the trick might be. So any suggestions would be great on any of the following. Thanks in advance.

-Ventilation fan only works on low and high (I have the climate control version)
-Idle is high at 1200. It was like that before I did the timing belt/new injectors/tuneup and I cleaned the idle control valve and the throttle body. No change.
-If I put the climate control on "econ" I think it wants to engage the A/C which has no belt and the idle gently bobs up and down a few hundred rpms at apx 1 second intervals.
-With front tires in the air, I can grab them at 9 and 3 and make the tie rods clunk at the steering rack end. If I watch through the wheel well with a flash light, it looks like there is a bolt at the rack end that moves as if it is loose. Both sides do this. I suspect it is in fact a bushing arrangement, not an actual loose bolt X2, eh?
-The driver's outside mirror glass is ever so slightly loose. Any easy tighten like other cars I've had?
-There is a missing plastic **** in the guage clear face at lower left - similar to an odometer reset stalk. Any way to replace? What was it? I have and odometer reset ****.

DougM

 

Meaning you turn it on and the fan doesn't blow unless you select low or high?
Is this when the car is cold? The fan won't start blowing right away while the engine is still cold only on defrost. Speed thing could related to the heater fan resistor.
Econ setting is the opposite it's the only setting that allows the CC fan to run without the radiator fan. Try unplugging the a/c compressor and or removing the a/c relay.

Your ISV could be bad or you have a vacuum leak somewhere.


Probably need some new tie-rods?

The mirror clips onto the motor assembly so maybe try pushing it back on.

Not important just a cover for the access hole for the fuel gauge adjustment screw.

 

Also, check that your throttle (On the back of the intake plenums) is closing all the way. The accel cable is very easily adjustable via a spring clip that you can get to very easily without removing anything other than the top engine beauty cover. Literally 2-seconds to adjust with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Let us know how us fix this...

 

Wrong motor the OP has a 5 cylinder 20v you are describing a V6.

 

Whups, the position on the climate control that makes the idle hunt up and down is the bilevel, so it must be cycling as it tries to engage the a/c, doesn't see what it wants with various sensors (no belt on a/c), then shuts down and tries again. I'll disconnect it and see if that helps.

On the fan, it won't do anything but hi or lo even when warm engine.

Off to the garage to play with the suggested items and the subject of the other thread - rad fan circuit.

Doug

 

Yoda's answer to my 'what is this missing ****' thread linking to this one reminded me I should follow up on a couple items that were resolved.

The high idle resolved itself after a bit of driving. I suspect it was perhaps the car's ECU resetting the baseline after sitting with no battery for a bit. Two of my other cars do the same thing.

The loose parts at the inner end of the tie rods proved to be exactly that - loose nuts. Kinda scary and made me give things the once over. Tightening the nuts stopped the 9 and 3 movement and the tie rods now appear solid. Someone missed that one in a previous service - they were hand tight and clearly on the way to coming loose and falling off (!)

And the missing thing as noted above is a cover for the fuel gauge adjuster. I found one in a junkyard and it's a solid rod that seems to have a knurled tip that friction fits in the clear instrument cover - correct? The other end must friction fit into the actual adjuster? I tried firmly but gently to pull the one out of the car in the junkyard but it did not want to come. Just use needle nose pliers, or is there an unscrewing or other action required?

Thanks,

DougM

 

you need to pull the cluster and open it up to get the rod and adjuster out.

 

Even though I can grab the tip of it sticking out of the clear guage cover? How does it come out if not simply through pulling it out? Unscrew?

DougM