I've acquired a partially completed 2002 S6 Avant on it's way to becoming a 6MT. I'm trying to find some clear coding instructions to get it to think it's a manual. Anyone have any links? I found some A6 stuff but this has the S6 intake and all that, I don't need a reflash, I think? Please educate me on the way to turn this thing into awesome with a capital A.

The 03A trans has been rebuilt with a matching front diff, 4.38:1 ... I counted the turns to make sure with it in 4th gear. Is this thing going to leap when I stomp on it or what?

It's got 150k miles, so I'm throwing new rotors and pads and seals and gaskets and hoses and, and, and... but it'll be nice and reliable when I'm done. Got some chain tensioner gaskets, going to go in.

Back in the early 2000's I was a master audi tech, Howard Cooper Audi, Ann Arbor, Michigan, for a few years anyways. THIS is the model I worked on the most, the C5 chassis, over everything. Working on it is like sliding on a baseball glove I grew up with; of course it fits my hand perfectly, and it is so nice to make it warm again.

 

I love the MT6 conversions stories! Fantastic to see people doing this in their own garages! Good for you!!!!!!!

I have seen videos of such cars after the conversion, nothing short of fantastic!

Mike

 

Ask and ye shall receive.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vpmZXfzNkuoFKnZv2

Updated almost daily, friday and saturday will be big days, trans will be in by then. Been waiting on a pilot bearing. the rear main seal looks stuffed so far in because it's a slightly different seal, didn't wanna spend $400 to get the one from audi with the back cover plate, it's a Timkin 716102. The only difference between this and what I had stock (some 4.2's got one or the other) is a little felt dust cover that makes the seal thicker, basically two 'seals' in one, but mine was 3mm from touching the crank, all the way around, not sure it ever had a real purpose, maybe it was just long dead, most engines use the type of seal I put in, but the first 4mm of crankshaft weren't machined very smooth compared to further in back where the original seal did its magic. So I drove the seal in deeper to make sure it would engage with that smooth area. It might be bottomed out in there, but I really don't wanna pull it back out to see. It wouldn't survive.

Still looking for coding, but I'm going to sit down with a new version of ross-tech and see how automated things are. It might just be that I need to select manual trans (-2?) on various modules, or perhaps euro coding. I used to set my stuff to Great Britain, because over there you can have low beams, high beams, and foglights on all at the same time, so when you flash your highs, the other two stay on, and driving at night in the mountains goes from risky to hilariously confident. GB uses miles, not kilometers, so although other countries also allow it, only GB will keep things as miles.

Last time I used that software was 10 years ago, and my vag-com cable is RS232 serial. Me thinks that will not work, not that I have either it or a laptop with a serial port anymore lol.


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