Hi I have a audi q7 2007 3.6l and I have a battery drain in my car. We have removed the amp already and the battery continue to drain. I was getting a code that there was a open circuit in my alarm on my rear window. We found that issue and had to resolder the senor back to the window. In the process before we resolder the senor The convenience system central control unit J393 we took out the and now my rear blinkers will not work. The car was off when we disconnected it and I had to reorder new blinkers and the new holders where the blinker go. I just don't and at lost what could be draining my battery and causing my blinkers not to work. Please help me.

 

On my 07 Q7 it is the door handles that are causing the battery drain. I read a thread on here that states removing or cutting the #15 wire in each door harness will eliminate the drain and the thrown code. I haven't had the time to attempt it yet myself, but it is one of my priorities...

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...3031705/page3/

 

Thank you I am going to have to try that and see if my OBD evelen is bringing up those codes.

 

Can the car with VCDS and it should show all the systems with shorts.

 

Ok so my battery seem to die when I lock my car. I also have to keep my car unlocked and have to push the unlock button when getting out of the car for the car not to die. Its very weird and do not understand. I also have a problem with my blinkers. any ideas?

 

You reposted this as new thread, but w/o all your car data. The OBD-Eleven can do a fair amount, if you learn how to use it, and subscribe to the annual 'pro-level' upgrade that's to gain access to programming/making mods/interfacing more fully with the car. It has its' limitations, and requires an annual fee to get anywhere with it. Most people who serious DIY, or need to resolve complex issues get the Ross-Tech VCDS system, which is what independent shops use on these German cars. Save your sanity, and your $$ it will. I've got three scan tools now, and yeah, I bought into the OBD-Eleven hype, got upsold to pro-level based on lotsa promises of competency. It couldn't do what I needed, so I got the VCDS and 'problem solved'. I keep my OBD-11 stored in the car as a road-trip tool, for emergencies. Anything serious gets the VCDS.

 

Resolving drain issues piecemeal as you are doing currently helps to lessen the overall parasitic drain on your battery, but it sounds like your battery is likely in the very low operational range...just barely getting by from drive-to-drive recharging via alternator. I doubt it has anything to do with punching door lock buttons in a certain sequence, and much more to do with the shorts you haven't yet addressed, as well as the low charge status of the battery. You can use your OBD-11 to go the Gateway (19), and view the live data to see how your charging system is doing, state-of-charge on battery, amp hours available, etc. You can also reset your battery aging (tracked by BEM system in car), by reentering existing battery BEM code that's already stored (hopefully) in car, and that will allow car to charge at a higher amperage output, as it will 'think' it is a new battery. Read through those threads others linked fully, and you will understand if you read the entire thread.

Everything you are doing is good, but if you don't update the BEM system in car to put out max amps charging when the car is running, then it won't be able to maintain the battery/help it recover. Had a similar issue with our '15, and the only drains on it were from those door handles. I charged that battery with an excellent automated charger, but it wouldn't maintain until I snipped the power wires to the bad door handle sensors, and ALSO reset the BEM (battery management system) on the car to achieve max charging rate from alternator. No problems since.

 

Once your battery falls below a preset threshold (state-of-charge/amp hours available), then the car begins shutting accessory and non-essential systems down in stages. Stage 1, stage 2 conservation, stage 3; well, you get the idea. Many things you may consider as 'essential', the car does not consider as 'essential' while the battery remains weak. The goal of the car shutting down systems is to help it recharge more quickly, or preserve what little remains in battery, so you can restart it again. So beyond the electrical drains you still have remaining, the car is going to be doing some crazy sh*t because of how sensitive it is to low voltage, as well as it will be turning off systems to save energy drain on battery/alternator. It can also put itself into 'high-idle' mode, so the alternator will turn faster when battery is depleted.

Hope some of this helps. Those door handles only take minutes to diagnose via scantool/errors, and snip. Same with the BEM code update via your OBD-11. Do both of those immediately, and put a charger on the battery using underhood charging posts to aid recovery.