After dealing with a clogged dog by having shop removed and baked by independent co my ‘14 Q7 is running better but continue to get code ERG valve stuck open. Should I delete their clean? I’ve not delved into “the valley “ before. Whatever time I estimate takes 4x that. I’m also interested in deleting their clean dog and any other exhaust components which will improve performance. It’s got 190k and love the vehicle. Would like to maintain to 400k. What other components and maintenance pearls are recommended. Thanks from a diesel ***

 

That meant to say dpf cleaned and baked

 

I had my DPF removed and ECU tuned but I also live in a no smog test province. If you have no smog tests, A Malone tune will defeat the need for EGR and adblue but the DPF gotta go or you will plug it fast. Darkside, Rawtek have kits. I think Rawtek might not be shipping to the USA as the EPA not happy. There are other methods to get it done. Vacation in Canada, It does not take long to do the swap. You'll be able to sell off components to fund the conversion. I sold my plugged DPF with full disclosure to the buyer. Might even sell my Adblue system. There are many videos on the Q7 tdi. Look up YouTube THAT GUY TYY It shows how to do away with the EGR and cooler as well as dealing with the exhaust. I would have done the swap long ago but waited for the warranty to run out and then we moved so it became problematic until the EGR pipe split. It was then that the shop said delete it now and told me where they would do it. He pointed me to a VW dealership lol

 

Forgive my basic knowledge and noonish questions in this area. Stevenson tuning will ship delete pipes for dpf. I can also delete the egr with a couple vendors. These and re-tune with tunzilla is the way to go? Not expecting a need for smog check. Want best efficiency and another 150-200k miles for vehicle. Thanks

 

The Malone tune via Tunezilla will disable the EGR functions as well as disable the Adblue. The tune does not remove the components. If you want to remove the EGR, You can buy block off plates from SUSTDI or Darkside that go on the turbo and intake manifold. You can also buy a kit from either vendor to delete the EGR cooler completely but it's not very cheap. For 2010 year, It is cheap as it is only 2 fittings while 2011 up has 3, One of which is a temp sender. If you take things apart far enough, You can also reseal the oil cooler if leaking as it is under the EGR cooler. https://sustdi.com/product-category/3ltdi/gen23l/ Or for gen 1 https://sustdi.com/product-category/...en1-2009-2012/

 

What year is your TDI? Diesel ***, or diesel noob? Two very different things.

I'd say focus on what works best for you and consider what matters to you. The EGR stuck open code relates to your EGR Cooler's controls system, not your DPF. The EGR Cooler is all around a PITA object since over the longer-term it's operation carbons up/clogs up your air intake (don't ignore cleaning out the accumulation of gunk from inside the intake if replacing or deleting it), but it does contribute to significantly faster warming of the engine/getting up to operating temp quicker, which is a definite benefit if you live in a colder climate region and/or depending on driving habits/patterns.

If you really want a facts-backed feedback, post up the full scan data from your TDI with ALL fault codes, and if you don't yet own a VAGCOM scan tool, then you need to get a basic, inexpensive one like OBD-eleven or Carista, etc., just to read codes with, even if you don't DIY. This is not a car to own if you can't scan properly to read what info/problems it has stored and is trying to share with you. If you DIY or plan to maintain it yourself, then you'll need/want a better VAGCOM scan tool, like the VCDS by Ross-Tech.

The downside if considering full delete, as several TDI owners on here have documented post-full-delete, is that by deleting your DPF your Q7 TDI will instantly and constantly smell strongly of raw, diesel exhaust, and that's definitely a huge change; it's definitely not for everyone. There's actually no need to delete the DPF though, as tuning the vehicle Stage 1 Tunezilla/Malone will allow it to run strongly, super clean, and more efficient too. It also costs significantly more to buy the 'custom' downpipe replacement, etc.

In the end, it's really up to you and what are you willing to spend, and just how familiar are you currently with the smell of raw, unfiltered, diesel exhaust.

 

I do have a scanner. The only code I get now is the EGR valve is stuck open. I have reviewed multiple YouTube videos on you driving into the valley. It is a task that looks to be a pita, but can certainly do it. My DPF has been cleaned and reinstalled. Since I have to get down to the EGR cooler to clean the valve, should I simply delete it and perform the programming? Thank you.

 

IIRC, the valve is on the rear right corner of the EGR cooler when it is installed. I am not sure if that area is accessible when the intake manifold is attached; you would definitely need to pull up the wiring tray that runs along the back of the manifold, and probably the high pressure fuel line that connects the two fuel rails. I think the front right corner, which is the downstream or out-going side of the exhaust gas flow, would be accessible with only the intake tube (not the manifold) removed. By the time you have the tray area open, it is probably worthwhile just to pull the manifold and clean it at the very least; you, like me, may be shocked at how gunked up it is (as a result of the EGR system)!

Should you remove it? That's up to your own preferences. I personally don't think that EGR systems on these diesels does anything good for them at all. And, any delete you do can be done in a piecemeal fashion, as it is simply a matter of programming afterward. So, you can delete the EGR while keeping the downstream exhaust components, or vice versa, mix/match. If I had to do it over again, I would eliminate SCR and EGR while keeping the catalytic converter and DPF in place (mine currently only has the catalytic converter). If you do decide to deactivate the EGR in software, your valve stuck issue will be gone, but, still..... YES to physically removing the EGR cooler (it will only cause you additional problems as it ages).

 

If the EGR is stuck open, I don't know that a tune would close it, I believe it just stops it from operating as in it does not open. In which case you'd be wanting block off plates that install on the turbo and on the intake. Get it tuned and delete the DPF. My cost to have the tune done and DPF deleted was 2500 Canadian. This coming summer, I plan to put in the block off plates and remove the EGR cooler. This is a 2010 kit I will be buying, 2011 and up is different. https://sustdi.com/product/3lg1-primary-cooler-delete/ These prices are Canadian https://mecevo.com/parts/touareg_and...9_to_2016.html Rawtek has this https://www.rawtekinc.com/collections/q7-2009-2010 Or if you want to go Darkside, These are 2010 compatible, Primary CAT Delete Downpipe - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-0-tdi-v6.html

DPF Downpipe Pipe - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....w-touareg.html

Secondary CAT / Adlue Delete Pipe - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....w-touareg.html



EGR Blanking Kit - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....i-engines.html