High mileage — how can I keep it running?
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 42
Likes: 7
From: New Hampshire, USA
High mileage — how can I keep it running?
I have nearly 160k miles (157,827mi at the time of this post) on my CTWB 3.0tfsi, and admittedly, I’m starting to get anxious. I don’t know how reliable these engines are with high mileage, but I haven’t heard the greatest…
I have a moderate amount of mechanical know-how, and am wondering what I should check on to make sure it can run as long as possible. I change the oil every 5,000mi with 5w-40 (previous owner changed it every 2k), and I haven’t been too reckless/crazy with my driving.
If there’s anything I can check on at home, let me know. I’m getting in contact with the Audi dealer I purchased it from about service records, and I’m bringing it to an Audi specialist soon to give me an MPI. No problem codes, seems to run great, just consumes a little bit more oil than normal. TIA!
I have a moderate amount of mechanical know-how, and am wondering what I should check on to make sure it can run as long as possible. I change the oil every 5,000mi with 5w-40 (previous owner changed it every 2k), and I haven’t been too reckless/crazy with my driving.
If there’s anything I can check on at home, let me know. I’m getting in contact with the Audi dealer I purchased it from about service records, and I’m bringing it to an Audi specialist soon to give me an MPI. No problem codes, seems to run great, just consumes a little bit more oil than normal. TIA!
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 4,567
Likes: 1,456
From: USA - NM
Know the issues that affect your 3.0T engine, and the 4L chassis Q7 in general.
Change the oil at 5k miles w/high-detergent, VW spec-meeting, quality oil, and although sounds like prior owner was insanely focused on oil changes (really, at 2k mile intervals?), if it's got some minor oil consumption (not an external leak issue), that's very common on the 3.0T engine related to oil pipes under S/C and/or the low-tension piston rings being compromised by carbon-capture, etc. If the PCV fails (under S/C), then typically the internal oil consumption shoots way up.
If your engine bay smells strongly of hot oil on metal after a good drive-around, then suspect there's a leak or problem under the S/C. I'd be doing an oil flush for max time allowed prior to next oil change to baseline it, then every 5th change after. There are also stronger, targeted flush products specifically designed to clean aggressively to help restore the rings to full sealing/compression, and get all the crud/deposits/lacquer deposits, etc. What you proactively do should be dictated by how much oil you have to add between change intervals/how far can you drive before it needs a qt/liter to top it off.
The best defense is a good offense, IMHO, when it comes to oil consumption issues. If you use an oil flush product, be sure to buy the correct quantity for oil capacity of your engine, or you are basically just wasting your money as not realizing the full benefit/concentration required for effective cleaning. Most off-shelf bottle sizes only treat up to 5qts oil, so you need two of most flush products/containers. I'm not selling anything, but I use the Liqui Moly oil and additive products on my Q7.
Don't forget to change the oil on the S/C itself, as that's often overlooked. Similarly, if replacing serpentine belt, consider when the tensioner and idler pulleys were replaced prior, if ever. If the idlers are 'grooved in' then they've been on the car for a while. Check all the idler pulleys, water pump pulley, etc. for bearing problems and shaft play with belt removed.
Take notes from this video as pertains to both your engine specifically, and the Q7 generally:
Change the oil at 5k miles w/high-detergent, VW spec-meeting, quality oil, and although sounds like prior owner was insanely focused on oil changes (really, at 2k mile intervals?), if it's got some minor oil consumption (not an external leak issue), that's very common on the 3.0T engine related to oil pipes under S/C and/or the low-tension piston rings being compromised by carbon-capture, etc. If the PCV fails (under S/C), then typically the internal oil consumption shoots way up.
If your engine bay smells strongly of hot oil on metal after a good drive-around, then suspect there's a leak or problem under the S/C. I'd be doing an oil flush for max time allowed prior to next oil change to baseline it, then every 5th change after. There are also stronger, targeted flush products specifically designed to clean aggressively to help restore the rings to full sealing/compression, and get all the crud/deposits/lacquer deposits, etc. What you proactively do should be dictated by how much oil you have to add between change intervals/how far can you drive before it needs a qt/liter to top it off.
The best defense is a good offense, IMHO, when it comes to oil consumption issues. If you use an oil flush product, be sure to buy the correct quantity for oil capacity of your engine, or you are basically just wasting your money as not realizing the full benefit/concentration required for effective cleaning. Most off-shelf bottle sizes only treat up to 5qts oil, so you need two of most flush products/containers. I'm not selling anything, but I use the Liqui Moly oil and additive products on my Q7.
Don't forget to change the oil on the S/C itself, as that's often overlooked. Similarly, if replacing serpentine belt, consider when the tensioner and idler pulleys were replaced prior, if ever. If the idlers are 'grooved in' then they've been on the car for a while. Check all the idler pulleys, water pump pulley, etc. for bearing problems and shaft play with belt removed.
Take notes from this video as pertains to both your engine specifically, and the Q7 generally:
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; Apr 11, 2025 at 08:55 AM.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 42
Likes: 7
From: New Hampshire, USA
Know the issues that affect your 3.0T engine, and the 4L chassis Q7 in general.
Change the oil at 5k miles w/high-detergent, VW spec-meeting, quality oil, and although sounds like prior owner was insanely focused on oil changes (really, at 2k mile intervals?), if it's got some minor oil consumption (not an external leak issue), that's very common on the 3.0T engine related to oil pipes under S/C and/or the low-tension piston rings being compromised by carbon-capture, etc. If the PCV fails (under S/C), then typically the internal oil consumption shoots way up.
If your engine bay smells strongly of hot oil on metal after a good drive-around, then suspect there's a leak or problem under the S/C. I'd be doing an oil flush for max time allowed prior to next oil change to baseline it, then every 5th change after. There are also stronger, targeted flush products specifically designed to clean aggressively to help restore the rings to full sealing/compression, and get all the crud/deposits/lacquer deposits, etc. What you proactively do should be dictated by how much oil you have to add between change intervals/how far can you drive before it needs a qt/liter to top it off.
The best defense is a good offense, IMHO, when it comes to oil consumption issues. If you use an oil flush product, be sure to buy the correct quantity for oil capacity of your engine, or you are basically just wasting your money as not realizing the full benefit/concentration required for effective cleaning. Most off-shelf bottle sizes only treat up to 5qts oil, so you need two of most flush products/containers. I'm not selling anything, but I use the Liqui Moly oil and additive products on my Q7.
Don't forget to change the oil on the S/C itself, as that's often overlooked. Similarly, if replacing serpentine belt, consider when the tensioner and idler pulleys were replaced prior, if ever. If the idlers are 'grooved in' then they've been on the car for a while. Check all the idler pulleys, water pump pulley, etc. for bearing problems and shaft play with belt removed.
Take notes from this video as pertains to both your engine specifically, and the Q7 generally:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04o6oK1J5fM
Change the oil at 5k miles w/high-detergent, VW spec-meeting, quality oil, and although sounds like prior owner was insanely focused on oil changes (really, at 2k mile intervals?), if it's got some minor oil consumption (not an external leak issue), that's very common on the 3.0T engine related to oil pipes under S/C and/or the low-tension piston rings being compromised by carbon-capture, etc. If the PCV fails (under S/C), then typically the internal oil consumption shoots way up.
If your engine bay smells strongly of hot oil on metal after a good drive-around, then suspect there's a leak or problem under the S/C. I'd be doing an oil flush for max time allowed prior to next oil change to baseline it, then every 5th change after. There are also stronger, targeted flush products specifically designed to clean aggressively to help restore the rings to full sealing/compression, and get all the crud/deposits/lacquer deposits, etc. What you proactively do should be dictated by how much oil you have to add between change intervals/how far can you drive before it needs a qt/liter to top it off.
The best defense is a good offense, IMHO, when it comes to oil consumption issues. If you use an oil flush product, be sure to buy the correct quantity for oil capacity of your engine, or you are basically just wasting your money as not realizing the full benefit/concentration required for effective cleaning. Most off-shelf bottle sizes only treat up to 5qts oil, so you need two of most flush products/containers. I'm not selling anything, but I use the Liqui Moly oil and additive products on my Q7.
Don't forget to change the oil on the S/C itself, as that's often overlooked. Similarly, if replacing serpentine belt, consider when the tensioner and idler pulleys were replaced prior, if ever. If the idlers are 'grooved in' then they've been on the car for a while. Check all the idler pulleys, water pump pulley, etc. for bearing problems and shaft play with belt removed.
Take notes from this video as pertains to both your engine specifically, and the Q7 generally:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04o6oK1J5fM
As for the S/C oil, I honestly didn't know that was a thing, but it makes sense. I guess it pays to ask! I've owned the car since January 1st of this year, so definitely worth knowing now than 3 years from now.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 517
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Unless you have prior records indicating recent changes, I would definitely change out fluids on this one: Transmission, transfer case, differentials, power steering, and brakes. Even at this mileage, it is *possible* that the transmission fluid is original given that it is not on the service interval list.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 180
From: South East USA
Definitely sounds like advice worth following! I've only used VW 502.00 Castrol so far, but I'm thinking of moving up to LiquiMoly or Motul, something of the likes. I usually have to top it off with another quart every 2.5-3k miles, so about half way through each interval. I have noticed what *could* be a leak, but not positive if it is or not. I cleaned up the underbody/chassis where there was noticeable oil when I did my last change, so we'll see if it comes back. Slightly noticeable smell in the engine bay, but I think that's just good ol' engine bay smell.
As for the S/C oil, I honestly didn't know that was a thing, but it makes sense. I guess it pays to ask! I've owned the car since January 1st of this year, so definitely worth knowing now than 3 years from now.
As for the S/C oil, I honestly didn't know that was a thing, but it makes sense. I guess it pays to ask! I've owned the car since January 1st of this year, so definitely worth knowing now than 3 years from now.
Mine has 173K. There are a few posts discussing these issues that a lot of people are having, was using a quart/700ish miles when I had a misfire on #5. I believe the shop broke a valve while walnut blasting and now I have its in another shop having valves replaced, with some other things. I am praying this will cure the issues and will run like new again. The rest of the car has been a living dream! AND FUN to drive!
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