Alignment Issues: Pic Request....
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Alignment Issues: Pic Request....
I took the TT in for an alignment and the rear toe is really off. This is the place I have always taken my older VW's and Audi's....but on the TT he said he wasn't sure how or if they can adjust the rear toe. After reading through the search, I see you can via the elongated holes where the trailing arms bolt on. I did see some old pics of this in the search, but they don't work. Does anyone have it saved?
Right now the right rear is .35 and the left is .65, which explains why the car is so twitchy in the rear on snow/ice. Somehow I don't think there is enough adjustment in the car to get back down to 0...can the holes be elongated easily? I had an old Volvo 242 Turbo and this was the only way to get the alignment in spec.....
Sean
Right now the right rear is .35 and the left is .65, which explains why the car is so twitchy in the rear on snow/ice. Somehow I don't think there is enough adjustment in the car to get back down to 0...can the holes be elongated easily? I had an old Volvo 242 Turbo and this was the only way to get the alignment in spec.....
Sean
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Re: Alignment Issues: Pic Request....
<ul><li><a href="http://www.ttstuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KMAC-FL">K-MAC-Audi TT Rear Camber Kit-Full Kit</a></li></ul>
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elongating those holes is a good idea, but I don't think it'll be easy
the plate is pretty hard and will be difficult to cut in place. It's somewhat labor intensive, but I think you'll need to pull it and take it to someone with a mill that can handle the hardness.
That said I'd rather run only adjustable lower arms and a milled plate, than upper and lower "adjustables". Having tinkered with changing the length of both arms, I'm not keen on it. It introduces so many variables. It's too easy to screw up your track width and thrust angle.
You don't need to go to all the way to zero toe. A little toe in is fine. Just be sure that both sides match and the thrust angle is as close to zero as possible.
That said I'd rather run only adjustable lower arms and a milled plate, than upper and lower "adjustables". Having tinkered with changing the length of both arms, I'm not keen on it. It introduces so many variables. It's too easy to screw up your track width and thrust angle.
You don't need to go to all the way to zero toe. A little toe in is fine. Just be sure that both sides match and the thrust angle is as close to zero as possible.
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