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Audi A3: How to Replace Shocks and Review

Worn out shocks and struts on your A3 can make or break the enjoyment of the ride.

By Jeffrey Smith - March 24, 2016

This article applies to the Audi A3 8P (2004-2012) and Audi A3 8V (2012-2016).

The shocks and struts on your Audi A3 are often one of the most neglected parts on your car. While they don't need to be regularly maintained, as they lose effectiveness, they are often never noticed until they are totally blown. They die a long, painful death, little by little every day, and the subtle changes over time are hard to feel, until we actually change them. Then the difference is quite dramatic. When your ride starts reminding you of a carnival bounce house, you have waited much too long.

The job is easy enough that you can take a day off and do this in your own garage, though you will need to buy, borrow or rent a quality spring compressor if you are re-using your springs. The springs, as assembled with the damper, has hundreds of pounds of pre-load that can hurt you if it were to let go suddenly, but you can always take your entire strut assembly to a pro and have them do the dangerous part. Or, you can purchase a pre-assembled strut and spring and forego the need of a spring compressor. Many chain auto parts stores will lend or rent you a pro-quality spring compressor for little to nothing as well.

Table of Contents

How to Replace Your Shocks

Audi A3 How to Replace Shocks

Materials Needed

  • Hydraulic floor jack
  • Jack stands
  • Lug wrench and breaker bar
  • Ratchet and socket set
  • Wrench set
  • Spring compressor (available at most chain auto parts stores to rent)

Step 1 – Place car on jack stands and remove wheels

Loosening the lugs on all the wheels before you jack up the car will make your job easier, unless you have a lift and air tools or an impact wrench. Lift the car and place on four jack stands at the approved locations.

With the lugs already broken free, remove them the rest of the way and pull all the wheels off.

  • Always use jack stands in the approved locations when working under your car
    Figure 1. Always use jack stands in the approved locations when working under your car.
  • Remove the wheels and get ready to get dirty
    Figure 2. Remove the wheels and get ready to get dirty.

Step 2 – Remove the front strut assembly

The front struts are much more complicated than removing the coilover shocks at the back of the car, because the strut locates the wheel, as well as provides damping, and a place for the spring to mount. Changing the rear will be much faster than the front.

  • Once the wheel is removed, you'll have access to the sway bar. Remove the bolt that mounts the sway bar to the lever arm.
  • Pull the sway bar up and out of the way.
  • Disconnect the 18mm pinch bolt using a ratchet and socket on the bolt head and a wrench to hold the triple square nut on the steering knuckle.
  • This is a compression type fitting, so you will need a tool, such as a 1/4" ratchet with no socket to spread the knuckle apart in order to get the strut assembly free.
  • Remove the inner axle by taking out the bolts at the flange. You will need to shove a large flat head screwdriver into the rotor to prevent it from turning until you want it to turn to get to more of these bolts.
  • Remove the ball joint from the A-arm.
  • Drop the wheel hub down from the top.
  • From above the engine, lift up on the plastic guard that covers the strut tower bolts so you can access them.
  • Remove the three strut tower bolts, but do not touch that center bolt yet.
  • Remove the strut assembly from the car and set it aside.
Removing the strut tower mounting bolts
Figure 3. Removing the strut tower mounting bolts.

Step 3 – Remove the spring from the strut

If you want, you can stop here and take the entire assembly to a shop to have this step done. This should cost you under a hundred bucks if you just don't feel safe dismounting the spring yourself. Otherwise, you can rent or borrow a spring compressor from your friendly neighborhood auto parts store.

  • Assemble the spring compressor onto the spring of the strut assembly on both sides, equal distance apart.
  • Using equal turns on each side, begin compressing the spring according to the instructions until all the pressure is taken off the center bolt for the shock and the mount.
  • Remove the 21mm center nut and disassemble the strut. There is usually a 7mm Allen head to hold the strut shaft from turning, or an impact gun may work.
  • Replace the strut and re-install the spring.
  • Follow the directions precisely on the use of the spring compressor
    Figure 4. Follow the directions precisely on the use of the spring compressor.
  • You may find it easier to loosen the 21mm nut before removing the strut from the car, but be careful
    Figure 5. You may find it easier to loosen the 21mm nut before removing the strut from the car, but be careful.

Step 4 – Reinstall the strut assembly

  • Replace the 21mm nut on top and torque it to specification.
  • Or, get the nut finger-tight, then remove the spring compressor, so the shaft is less likely to turn. You may still need the 7mm Allen to get the proper torque.
  • Reinstall the strut assembly into the car and torque the three bolts for the strut tower.
  • Replace the ball joint, inner axle, steering knuckle and sway bar
Typical A3 front shock assembly
Figure 6. Typical A3 front shock assembly.

Step 5 – Remove and replace rear shocks

Removing the rear shocks is a pretty straightforward and easy job. It should go much faster than the front.

  • Remove the two upper mounting bolts.
  • Remove the bolt at the end of the control arm.
  • Lower the control arm to get the spring out of the way.
  • Remove the lower mounting shock bolt.
  • Remove and replace the shock.
  • Reverse these steps for assembly.
The Audi A3 rear shock does not have a spring over it, so replacement is much easier
Figure 7. The Audi A3 rear shock does not have a spring over it, so replacement is much easier.

Featured Videos

  • How to Replace the Front Struts on an A3

  • How to Remove the Rear Shocks on an A3

A3 Shock/Strut Review

Worn dampers on your A3 can make you feel like you are sailing a land yacht instead of a sporty German compact. Usually, the wear takes a long time, and the deterioration is so subtle that you don't really notice until you actually swap them out. Most people suggest new shocks/struts after about 50k miles or so, and you should at least check them for signs of leaking and poor damping at that time. If you think it is time, or just want an upgrade, here are how the popular options stack up.
Koni FSD
Bilstein B6 HD
Monroe
Sachs
Price
 $650 $700 $175 $375
Warranty
 Limited Lifetime Limited Lifetime Limited Lifetime Lifetime
Rebuildable
 Yes Yes No Yes
Best Quality: Bilstein

Best Value: Monroe

Koni FSD

Price – $650

Warranty – Limited Lifetime

Rebuildable – Yes

The Koni FSD shocks are probably the most highly recommended shocks to put on your Audi. These shocks use a relatively new technology (Frequency Selective Damping) to make split second changes to ride based upon road conditions, driving style and characteristics. They give you both a firm damping in the corners, as well as a smooth and comfortable ride, but the trade off is that you'll pay a lot more for these shocks than others. Recommended for those who want the best of both worlds: smooth ride and stiff, responsive handling.

Bilstein B6 HD

Price – $700

Warranty – Limited Lifetime

Rebuildable – Yes

The Bilstein shocks are probably the second most popular brand of shock for your Audi. These HD shocks give you a firm and sporty ride that isn't overly harsh. They do ride stiffer than the Konis or OEM replacements, but you will be happy with the improved handling performance, if that was your main goal. They are about the same price as the Konis, but with better handling, and a reputation for lasting forever. Recommended if you don't mind trading a harder ride for a more sporty feel and handling.

Monroe

Price – $175

Warrany – Limited Lifetime

Rebuildable – No

Monroe shocks are one of the best buys, if all you want is to restore your stock ride. It is likely that the folks who purchase Monroe shocks aren't quite the same people who are buying the Konis, or converting to coilovers. The Monroe shocks and struts are actually OE fitment on many current Audis. The ride will be at least as good as the factory new car ride, but may not have the cornering and sporty feel that you are looking for. Recommended for those who want a ride comparable to what they had when the car was new for not much money.

Sachs

Price – $375

Warranty – Lifetime

Rebuildable – Yes

Sachs shocks at one time were the OEM for most German cars. These shocks will give you a high quality ride, not spongy or bouncy at a not too expensive price point. Sachs are not going to corner like the Koni or Billstein, but may be better than the car came with from new, and the ride is nice, too. Recommended if you want a higher quality OEM part, made in Germany, that delivers a better than new ride and handling.

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