Car hesitating when going from place and
#1
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Car hesitating when going from place and
dies when i loose gas pedal from full throttle. I pulled no fault codes from ecu. But i saved measured block. Maybe someone can read out something useful, I use vag com 311 and ecu is 8a0 906 266 b v. 1992 y audi 100 v6 2.8 12v.
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Do you still have that bored-out small-bore MAF housing on your car?
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...7#post23942497
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...7#post23942497
#3
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No i do not have. Right now i have small bore maf eaven with screen on it (i think)
You think, that bored out small maf will affect something. Why should? Inner diameter is same as other in forum.
You think, that bored out small maf will affect something. Why should? Inner diameter is same as other in forum.
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Stay with small original MAF for now...
In your photo, that sensor and bored-out housing may give you issues.
Questions to try to help you diagnose and fix the hesitation issue:
Do you currently have a CEL lit?
Do you have any stored diagnostic codes in memory?
see: http://www.12v.org/maintenance/dtc.php
Is your air filter both paper and clean?
Is your MAF sensor clean?
Is your Noise-damper to Throttle-Body Seal new/fresh?
Have you replaced your Crank-Case Vent Hoses?
See seal & DIY vent hoses here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2788912
Have you serviced your ICS/ICV?
Have you replaced all (27?) of your OEM small I.D. vacuum hoses with better material?
What is your warm idle engine vacuum?
The above are all search-able topics here on this forum.
Hope this helps.
Questions to try to help you diagnose and fix the hesitation issue:
Do you currently have a CEL lit?
Do you have any stored diagnostic codes in memory?
see: http://www.12v.org/maintenance/dtc.php
Is your air filter both paper and clean?
Is your MAF sensor clean?
Is your Noise-damper to Throttle-Body Seal new/fresh?
Have you replaced your Crank-Case Vent Hoses?
See seal & DIY vent hoses here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2788912
Have you serviced your ICS/ICV?
Have you replaced all (27?) of your OEM small I.D. vacuum hoses with better material?
What is your warm idle engine vacuum?
The above are all search-able topics here on this forum.
Hope this helps.
#6
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Ok right now i do not have bored maf connected
I installed cell light on my own, but it does not show me any issues. Therefore i do not have any stored diagnostic codes. So vag-com says that car is ok.
My air filter is paper and clean
I cleand maf sensor last summer. It should be clean.
I made noise tamper seal fix with wire-like in forum
I cleaned icv in this summer. Its clean and the valve inside is moving freely.
I do not have replaced all 3mm i/d vac. hoses. I do not have egr, because in europe we dindn't need that and therefore i do not have extra, like 10 vac hoses
I do not know what is the vac. on warm engine idle. I have to figure it out where i can measure it and what devices do i need.
Crank-Case Vent Hoses- do you mean hoses from cam covers to noise damper? These are new, but there are some squeezed corners where air may not pass.
My first idea was, that something is wrong with vac. , or spark plugs and wires need to replace with new ones.
Last winter i broke vac plastic (goes to rear differ lock
http://www.12v.org/maintenance/index...uto=yes&egr=no valve nr.2 i have different vac diagram. And more different than that http://www.12v.org/maintenance/index...auto=no&egr=no) on valve witch is in middle of pipe between intake manifold and brake booster. Its one way valve. I replaced it usual three way valve. Is there some issue?
I have manaul gearbox and without egr.
I installed cell light on my own, but it does not show me any issues. Therefore i do not have any stored diagnostic codes. So vag-com says that car is ok.
My air filter is paper and clean
I cleand maf sensor last summer. It should be clean.
I made noise tamper seal fix with wire-like in forum
I cleaned icv in this summer. Its clean and the valve inside is moving freely.
I do not have replaced all 3mm i/d vac. hoses. I do not have egr, because in europe we dindn't need that and therefore i do not have extra, like 10 vac hoses
I do not know what is the vac. on warm engine idle. I have to figure it out where i can measure it and what devices do i need.
Crank-Case Vent Hoses- do you mean hoses from cam covers to noise damper? These are new, but there are some squeezed corners where air may not pass.
My first idea was, that something is wrong with vac. , or spark plugs and wires need to replace with new ones.
Last winter i broke vac plastic (goes to rear differ lock
http://www.12v.org/maintenance/index...uto=yes&egr=no valve nr.2 i have different vac diagram. And more different than that http://www.12v.org/maintenance/index...auto=no&egr=no) on valve witch is in middle of pipe between intake manifold and brake booster. Its one way valve. I replaced it usual three way valve. Is there some issue?
I have manaul gearbox and without egr.
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#8
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I pictured up my audi underhood and made vac diagram what i have.
Bigger version here http://www.upload.ee/image/895551/vac-diagram.jpg
Am i missing something. I have seen a lot of different vac diagrams for v6 12v but nothing like mine. I saw another topic here, were mechanics routed aditional vac hoses!?
and original what is on internet is like that
Bigger version here http://www.upload.ee/image/895551/vac-diagram.jpg
Am i missing something. I have seen a lot of different vac diagrams for v6 12v but nothing like mine. I saw another topic here, were mechanics routed aditional vac hoses!?
and original what is on internet is like that
#9
AudiWorld Senior Member
configuration, hoses and vacuum gauge...
If your car ran well previuosly with it's current vacuum system set-up, and it hasn't been altered, it's configuration may be original?
The vacuum hoses are certainly cheaper and easier to replace than changing sensors. Besides, it may make sense to replace your small fabric covered hoses first, as they may be aged originals and are a known to become an issue. Do try to get hose that is better than the original, search for "BMW vacuum hose" here on this forum if you need a part number. An example of a tool you can use to do leak-down tests and measure vacuum with is:
http://www.mityvac.com/
Pictured is one like I have. I only use it for vacuum stuff, and never use it for brake bleeding.
The vacuum hoses are certainly cheaper and easier to replace than changing sensors. Besides, it may make sense to replace your small fabric covered hoses first, as they may be aged originals and are a known to become an issue. Do try to get hose that is better than the original, search for "BMW vacuum hose" here on this forum if you need a part number. An example of a tool you can use to do leak-down tests and measure vacuum with is:
http://www.mityvac.com/
Pictured is one like I have. I only use it for vacuum stuff, and never use it for brake bleeding.
Last edited by Lago Blue; 11-01-2010 at 08:29 AM.
#10
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My car have not ran well in my hand. From cold start hesitation is bigger. In warm i do not notice hasitation. Idle is smooth in cold and warm. when i start cold , it,s about 1000-1100 rpm and falls to 700 pretty fast.
Vac line what i posted, should be original. My relative have a100 2.8 but from 1993y and also manual. He have same vac. diagram. But it looks like its from automatic variant. when i repaired my engine, i replaced few vac hoses to new one which look like oem ones. Engine dieing problem started, when i changed brake master cylinder. First i forgot to but o-ring betveen brake booster and master cylinder. After replacing that, a hearable vacuum leak is gone. But sometimes car still dies. May be brake booster and vacuum hose connection (leaky) faulty?
And may that non-return (the on which is on vacuum hose from brake booster to intake manifold, which i broke and replaced with usual 3 way T-piece)valve make this problem?
Vac line what i posted, should be original. My relative have a100 2.8 but from 1993y and also manual. He have same vac. diagram. But it looks like its from automatic variant. when i repaired my engine, i replaced few vac hoses to new one which look like oem ones. Engine dieing problem started, when i changed brake master cylinder. First i forgot to but o-ring betveen brake booster and master cylinder. After replacing that, a hearable vacuum leak is gone. But sometimes car still dies. May be brake booster and vacuum hose connection (leaky) faulty?
And may that non-return (the on which is on vacuum hose from brake booster to intake manifold, which i broke and replaced with usual 3 way T-piece)valve make this problem?