Bren87

I just bought a 2012 A4. It's in great condition, and I want to keep it that way. Does anyone have any tips on upkeep/maintenance. I know I'll have one of the milestone services coming up, and I want to know what I should be keeping an eye on.


Thanks for the help!


Also looking for any information on the AMI system, and the possibility of upgrading the receiver with a touch screen/Bluetooth music streaming/nav capability. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Dr Awesome

Do you do your own maintenance? I will say that when I did my first oil change myself, I used the same plug/crush washer. Afterwards there was a small drip from the plug, so I got an aftermarket plug and set of washers to put in, but the washer either did not fit right or was scored and I found an oil puddle (1/2 qt) under it... so I had to change the oil again and put in a whole new plug with a plastic/nylon washer instead to get it to seal up nicely. No problems after that, just be sure your crush washer fits well on your plug.

At 100k you are supposed to do the timing belt as I have read in a couple places, so that takes a lot of work to get to, so do the water pump at the same time.

There are some need mods you can do with VCDS, I read a few tutorials on AudiEnthusiasts Home, but haven't pulled the trigger on getting VCDS yet.

jagtoes

It doesn't have a timing belt but a timing chain which should be checked at 100K.

DeltaRover

We all wish it had a timing belt. Since you have a 2012 you may want to look into changing the timing chain tensionser. The part is cheap but the labor significant.

treilley

I had mine changed for about $500 including parts. Labor is significantly more(thousands) if you do not do this and it fails.

ang1dust

I just posted this in upgrades to look for but i figure it goes both ways for maint as well since i posted it at the bottom. And of course this will give you an idea of some nice cheap upgrades.


From my point of view these would be the best upgrades
Engine:
Turbo delete pipe from Eurocode 150$:

EuroCode Tuning High Flow Intercooler Pipe - Audi A4/A5 2.0TSI - EC-B8A4-20Q-IC4-B

APR Stage 1 upgrade 600$:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...are/ES2792684/

200 cell downpipe 250: ( this requires stage 2 upgrade and opens up a blow off valve suggestion)

USP Audi 2.0T 3" High Flow Cat - USP-B8-CAT

APR Stage 2 150$ ( unless you buy the APR 750$ downpipe then its free):

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...are/ES2848854/


Intake 305$:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...jen/ES3086223/

That should get you to about 300-320hp ive never dyno'd my car. But then you should consider taking care of your intake with a catch can.

Catch Can 350$ (the can is fugly but its 150$ cheaper than any other):

Spulen B8 A4 and A5 2.0TSI Billet Spherical Catch Can Kit- Black - SE-CCB8TSIV2-B

Diverter Valve 140$:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4....0T/ES2864616/

These are my personal suggestions, youll spend less than 2 grand getting about 100 (almost 50%) hp out of the engine while keeping a clean intake.

Just for those that dont know, the turbo muffler is a tap on the turbo charge pipe. While your turbo is attempting to pressureize the intake, it must pressureize this 1 litre caniseter before charging the engine, this is where your initial acceleration lag and shift lag comes from. I drive a standard, it is a huge upgrade and definatly considered the first best and cheapest upgrade.

If your not a catch can beleiver, you can youtube or google what happends when you increase the pressure in the engine. Its pretty big.

Eventually your diverter valve will go out, from what i understand the plunger in the valve begins to have issues and will not close, so when you accelerate it allows the boost to exit into the atmosphere. Cheapest is the fastbits DV and is highly reccommended.

Kipster1203

Is there a way to physically check the stock DV for leakage?

2012Audiavant

I own a 2012 A4 Avant with 55k that just had the pistons and rings replaced because of excessive oil consumption. The timing chain was replaced as well since the engine was removed. I hope you don’t experience that issue.

mvagustabill

Jack up the front, slide under the car (with safety stands in place) and its 1 connector and 3 bolts, and it slides right out. The DV is close to the turbo. Takes just a few minutes. There are several videos on YouTube

Hope this helps

taxman1

Both the turbo and water pump are class action items...try and determine if yours has been repaired or replaced.