the_duke

There is a small screen on the oil passage that feeds the adjuster. If that gets clogged it will cause the adjuster to not work properly. But if you already have a replacement and you are sure it is the correct part (different part for each bank) then why not install it?

Prospeeder

The shoes can be in good shape and it is seemingly tight, but remember the valve springs are pushing on the cams and gives the illusion the chain is tight. Also there is a spring in the tensioner just for keeping it extended out. Once the engine is running the force the chain puts on the the tensioner is way way more, and oil pressure is what keeps it pumped up. They fail inside and dont pump up anymore and the chain becomes slack. Just replace the tensioner.

CRuby

As the duke says, the tensioners are different for each bank. Different p/n's for bank 1 & 2. They may look alike, but they don't work alike, speaking from 1st hand experience. PO of my car had switched tensioners (L-R to R-L) & it had misfires & cam-crank correlation codes, until I finally discovered the switch-a-roo. So don't mix them up.

Also, before you remove old tensioners, put engine timing to TDC & confirm your cam notches are aligned with the bearing cap marks ( ^ ). Be sure you understand the cam chain roller count btwn intake & exhaust & possibly even mark the mating chain roller for both cams.

the green amigo

Thanks everyone for the help, you've been a lifesaver so far. Just one question though, does the timing belt need to be removed to change the tensioner? Assuming of course that the tb timing is correct. Ive seen conflicting info on weather the sprockets and tb must be removed prior to pulling the intake cam.

Prospeeder

no just unbolt the intake camshaft and tensioner and lift them out. No need to mess with the exhaust cam so no need to touch the belt.