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p1522 & Flashing Cel

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Old 01-30-2015, 05:31 AM
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Default Ummm, yes. Something else is the camshaft. BUT

Originally Posted by the green amigo
I swapped new and old sensor with same result. Sensor was mounted flush and lined up correctly with with the two mounting holes, is there something else I shouId be lining up as well? As for the cam chain tensioner plug, where is it exactly located on the front?
The code is 'Intake' Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Bank 2, Malfunction. That's the actuator, not necessarily the position sensor. The actuator is solenoid/oil pressure item and it can get clogged with bad oil, excessive oil change interval for the service experienced, etc. At least it's not a BMW V12 with Double VANOS!!

On the 2.7T the camshaft variable timing actuation can apparently be tested using a VAG; I suspect it can be tested using VCDS as well. You'll have to look it up. It's basically done at engine idle, I tried to copy and paste the ebahn procedure for VAG:

To answer your question about is there something else other than the two mounting holes, yes.
It's a camshaft timing sensor; there's more to installing it than lining up the mounting holes. The sensor has a tab that inserts/fits into the camshaft. If there is no tab on your sensor it got knocked off/damaged. Look at the camshaft sensor on the other bank (the bank that isn't sending an error) and viz the tab; or look at a new one at the dealer. Check the camshaft/sensor interface on the CPS for the tab.

If the tab is gone or ruined you'll need a new CPS…this time make sure the tab is aligned with the camshaft, then put the sensor in/on the block and finger tighten the bolts. It should go flush easily.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:04 AM
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**UPDATE**

Need some assistance here fellas, after a couple weeks of putting this problem on the backburner I'm back on it.

After heeding to some smart advice suggesting the camshaft tensioner as the most likely culprit I went ahead and purchased a new camshaft tensioner and all the gaskets and seals for the valve cover. I went ahead and removed the valve cover expecting some damage to the tensioner shoes or chain slack but everything looked fine, at least to my eye. The only thing I found was scoring and scratching on the underside of the valve cover where the chain rotates, not a good sign but not sure what it means exactly as the chain is very tight. I took a few pics and will atach them. Can anyone with more experience give me an idea of what else could be wrong with the tensioner and what I should be looking for, as well as the scratches on the valve cover. Thanks I appreciate it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by the green amigo
**UPDATE**

Need some assistance here fellas, after a couple weeks of putting this problem on the backburner I'm back on it.

After heeding to some smart advice suggesting the camshaft tensioner as the most likely culprit I went ahead and purchased a new camshaft tensioner and all the gaskets and seals for the valve cover. I went ahead and removed the valve cover expecting some damage to the tensioner shoes or chain slack but everything looked fine, at least to my eye. The only thing I found was scoring and scratching on the underside of the valve cover where the chain rotates, not a good sign but not sure what it means exactly as the chain is very tight. I took a few pics and will atach them. Can anyone with more experience give me an idea of what else could be wrong with the tensioner and what I should be looking for, as well as the scratches on the valve cover. Thanks I appreciate it.
Those marks are factory grinds after casting process, no need to worry.
Old 02-26-2015, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
Those marks are factory grinds after casting process, no need to worry.
Ahh thanks JC that makes sense. Now to figure out what is wrong with my tensioner, I'm all ears.
Old 02-26-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by the green amigo
Ahh thanks JC that makes sense. Now to figure out what is wrong with my tensioner, I'm all ears.
Do you mean cam adjuster? The only tensioner remote to the valve train is the T-Belt tensioner.
Old 02-26-2015, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
Do you mean cam adjuster? The only tensioner remote to the valve train is the T-Belt tensioner.
The part I bought is listed as the cam chain tensioner but I believe we are speaking of the same part, so yes the adjuster is the part in question. Have gotten multiple codes and rough running engine/misfires to confirm this.
Old 02-26-2015, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by the green amigo
The part I bought is listed as the cam chain tensioner but I believe we are speaking of the same part, so yes the adjuster is the part in question. Have gotten multiple codes and rough running engine/misfires to confirm this.
Yep it's the same thing, tension/slack the chain to advance/retard the cam.

I believe Prospeeder hit on a good point that the part is failing, these adjusters are operated by oil pressure directed by the adjuster's solenoid.
There is a whole lot of info on replacing them in the forum and some at the Features/Tech articles tab at the top of the page.

It's been awhile since I've tooled on our old 2.8 and never had to mess with the adjusters, I have a 04 3.0 now with no chains....different deal.
Old 02-26-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
Yep it's the same thing, tension/slack the chain to advance/retard the cam.

I believe Prospeeder hit on a good point that the part is failing, these adjusters are operated by oil pressure directed by the adjuster's solenoid.
There is a whole lot of info on replacing them in the forum and some at the Features/Tech articles tab at the top of the page.

It's been awhile since I've tooled on our old 2.8 and never had to mess with the adjusters, I have a 04 3.0 now with no chains....different deal.
Ive been reading through most posts and tech articles so im becoming familiar with the process. I guess my question would be can I be entirely sure that the adjuster is failing or could it be the solenoid or issue with oil flow to the solenoid. Im trying to go through every possible scenario. I dont want to change the adjuster and it turns oil flow is still an issue and in turn not fixing the problem.
Old 02-26-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by the green amigo
Ive been reading through most posts and tech articles so im becoming familiar with the process. I guess my question would be can I be entirely sure that the adjuster is failing or could it be the solenoid or issue with oil flow to the solenoid. Im trying to go through every possible scenario. I dont want to change the adjuster and it turns oil flow is still an issue and in turn not fixing the problem.
Vagcom/VCDS is the only tool to determine the parts operation as mentioned before by Sloop, outside of that take it off, pin-out the solenoid with a vom meter, clean-out the oil passages....you might get lucky and at least you have a good part to compare to with the solenoid ohm values.
Old 02-26-2015, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jcman
Vagcom/VCDS is the only tool to determine the parts operation as mentioned before by Sloop, outside of that take it off, pin-out the solenoid with a vom meter, clean-out the oil passages....you might get lucky and at least you have a good part to compare to with the solenoid ohm values.

Looks like I should've run that diagnostic prior to taking off the valve cover, oh well i'll take her out and see whats going on in there. Thanks JC.


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