pr0xZen

If you plan on getting at the motor, I advice you to pop up the window switch and unplug it before taking the interior door card off. Otherwise is going to be seriously cramped. The motor comes of with a few screws once the card is off. Also, if you intend to put the window frame "cassette" (Window, guides and regulator comes out as a whole framed unit/module) back in the same door - I strongly advice you to mark the position of all the screws, shims and brackets with paint or something sharp. Otherwise you'll have to allign the module after refitting it, and with 4 (?) mounting points and gravity working against you - that is a seriously PITA job.

Not quite sure about the rears as I haven't had it out, but I recently pulled the loom for the fronts. The front door looms connects to the "interior loom" behind the kick panels in the footwells, 3 (or 4?) colored multiplugs. There should be a split foam "grommet" there towards the pillar, where the wires run through, up inside the pillar and out to the door. You'll need to pull that foam grommet out to get the plugs through.

If you're able to, I suggest carfully prying out the plastic bracket on the outside of the pillar. Re-attaching the rubber boot between the door and the pillar to this bracket is a difficult job - but its very easy if the bracket isn't in place yet.

A6 C5, front door loom and plugs behind kick panel. Red is the door loom multiplugs, blue is the foam grommet.



A6 C5, door loom accordian boot bracket, removed from pillar. See retaining tabs locations.

N_Jay

Thanks a million.
I just pulled the motors, as I did not have a ton of time, and believe3d mine were getting bad.
That parts car is now gone (or so I think)

My car will probably be getting the entire doors from my own parts car.
I know the passenger window regulator is bad, and the drivers door latch is bad.
I am also suspicious of the drivers window motor from some complains my daughter had before the accident.
Additionally, the rear right window has a bad scratch in the glass, so I figure I will just swap all four doors and call it a day (or two, or three, . . . )

pr0xZen

I'm not sure if the wiring is the same pre/post facelift - so might want to double-check that if it applies for you (in regards to donor and recipient). 3 of the 4 side doors on mine is rusting pretty bad from poor maintenace around the lower part of the outer door plastic trim, and I'm having weird window and lock gremlins I haven't been able to figure out - considering going for 4 donor doors myself. I'd be very glad if you filled us in on removal/fitting of the door itself - I haven't been able to find anything on this.

(Possible) useful tip: AFAIK, the window regulator sliders for the rears are not available as spares.

N_Jay

How difficult is it to remove the lower "blade" door trim, rub strip?

Does anyone have a step by step?

The Parts car has better doors, but the "Blade" as I think it is called are pulling away at the ends.
My original doors have window and lock issues, (I think they have also had some body work), but the blades are near perfect.

Any help would be appreciated.

johnkk

there's a you tube on it. But very simple. One screw at each end. Remove and give the blade a whack from the front of the door. It will slide back in slots about 2" until you can remove.

FYI, odds are you will snap off at least one of the small screws