first.octopus

total agree on this.

inivid

Noted. As mentioned previously, I have disabled the DRL option until I have a solution implemented. Thank you for the input.

SchwarzS6

I recommend that you find some metal chassis component like the front bumper supports and screw the resistors to it. That will help them dissipate the heat. Overall you will not use any less energy than you would with incandescent bulbs but instead of dumping the heat into the headlight assembly you need to dump it someplace else.

raj99

agree with this. Unwrap those heat sinks and allow them to do what they were designed to do...dissipate heat. The bigger the heat sinks the better, in most cases and this is an inherent issue with almost all LEDs.

inivid

Thank you very much. As weekends are typically pretty busy, inherent nature of any family with three toddlers, I have to tackle this during the week. I will reply when all is resolved.

I have to admit, they do look pretty good. Though, due to the forward-facing nature of the Zevo bulb, the bulb housing wasn't reflecting light equal to the forward discharge of the bulb. So, I took a couple pieces of aluminium aircraft tape and traced a quarter to cut two "caps" to place over the tip of each bulb. The size was sufficient to achieve the desired effect and the DRL housing is now illuminated as intended.

I didn't take any photos before I installed them, but I was able to find this via Google, to make it easier to imagine what I did with the tape. I'll take a photo later today of the bulbs installed.

inivid

After further reading, these bulbs certainly do not require resistors, as they are completely internal and the bulb itself has an integrated pedestal heat sink. I'm leaning towards the bulb seeing an under-voltage condition (rated for 12.8), as I have not read about other makes/models having the same issue I have been seeing. Also, given that it's a very, very slow rate of flicker (one per 1.5 sec), I am extremely confident in my assumption. I have yet to confirm, but intend to put my Power Probe to good use later this afternoon, upon return from an appointment.

inivid

Power Probe testing revealed the following data:

Voltage via terminals in engine compartment: 12.3V
Voltage input to DRL socket: Nominal 10.3V, with cyclic increases to 11.7V at 1.2-1.5sec rate. Intermittent negative pulses present throughout.

So, I was correct in my under-voltage assumption. Now, how do I remedy it?

RydeOdie

This is my experience and its only for the License plate bulbs. Avoid This 6418 Sylvania LED bulb Sylvania 6418 LED Bulb, 1 pack 6418 LED: Advance Auto Parts ...Only worked one week and they started dying.


I got ZIZA LED PL36MM65050WHT - 36mm White LED Festoon Bulb - Priced Each - ES#2515359 it works perfect.

inivid

Spoke to an engineer from Sylvania yesterday. He confirmed resistors are not necessary and recommended a capacitor to stabilize the voltage. He noted I would see slightly diminished brightness, but it would solve any flicker I am currently experiencing. He also noted that the bulb replacement guide for my make/model/headlight variant would be revised, per my troubleshooting and data.

RydeOdie, thanks for recommending the ZIZA plate bulbs!

madcyclist

Having read a number of similar threads, I have a question: why not just wire the regular OEM bulb in a separate BA15S socket in parallel to the LED and place it somewhere inside the engine compartment? This bulb is exactly what the computer is expecting in terms of wattage/resistance. This should remove the resistor guesswork and temperature issues.

Thoughts?