cold start idle bounce.
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
cold start idle bounce.
This is what I tried to communicate previously but didn't describe correctly. I found a post that described exactly what I have on my 2000. He even has a video of the tac showing the rpms go up and down.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...-idle-2825898/
In his thread I found an even older link to a post on audiforums.
Cold start Idle Bounce (2-4 times) - AudiForums.com
I've notice the bounce off and on for few months, getting worse as temps drop. The only code that shows is P1141 but no CEL up till last few days when bounce got bouncier and CEL did come on. Gentle acceleration from a stop has always had a slight hesitation but I never gave it much thought
P1141 is the only code I get. Not the P1564 like the audiforum post
I cleaned the MAF sensor a week ago hoping that was problem but next cold day it returned. Then I replaced all vac lines. Still have bounces.
I read somewhere a dirty TB might be problem and read where disconnecting the MAF connector might tell me something. My thinking was to disconnect, take off the big tube and spray cleaner down the TB on the butterfly valve. Apparently if it ran with the MAF disconnected, it would indicate a bad MAF or a vacuum leak.
Since it really didn't want to run, I'm assuming my MAF is good and I know from replacing all the vac lines that they're good. After a dozen or so tries, I was able to have wife start, give it a little gas pedal and keep it running for 10 or so seconds without revving the **** out of it. As she did this, I sprayed cleaner inside to clean the butterfly valve. Not sure whether I accomplished much.
After I was done I buttoned it up and it ran fine. Of course by then it wasn't a cold start. Will find out tomorrow morning.
I've been talking to a guy on audiforums and he thinks I need to take the TB off for a thorough cleaning. That's not an option for me as it would need a TB adaptation and I don't have a Ross Tech, (just a cheap code reader)
In the old post, it also talks about cleaning contacts under a plate on the side of the TB. It's apparently related to cam tensioner. This references a cam tensioner circuit but I'm assuming that is the P1564 code, which I am not getting.
Given that it didn't run worth a crap with the MAF disconnected, does that mean the MAF is ok? Don't want to replace MAF and continue with same problem.
Any thoughts?
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...-idle-2825898/
In his thread I found an even older link to a post on audiforums.
Cold start Idle Bounce (2-4 times) - AudiForums.com
I've notice the bounce off and on for few months, getting worse as temps drop. The only code that shows is P1141 but no CEL up till last few days when bounce got bouncier and CEL did come on. Gentle acceleration from a stop has always had a slight hesitation but I never gave it much thought
P1141 is the only code I get. Not the P1564 like the audiforum post
I cleaned the MAF sensor a week ago hoping that was problem but next cold day it returned. Then I replaced all vac lines. Still have bounces.
I read somewhere a dirty TB might be problem and read where disconnecting the MAF connector might tell me something. My thinking was to disconnect, take off the big tube and spray cleaner down the TB on the butterfly valve. Apparently if it ran with the MAF disconnected, it would indicate a bad MAF or a vacuum leak.
Since it really didn't want to run, I'm assuming my MAF is good and I know from replacing all the vac lines that they're good. After a dozen or so tries, I was able to have wife start, give it a little gas pedal and keep it running for 10 or so seconds without revving the **** out of it. As she did this, I sprayed cleaner inside to clean the butterfly valve. Not sure whether I accomplished much.
After I was done I buttoned it up and it ran fine. Of course by then it wasn't a cold start. Will find out tomorrow morning.
I've been talking to a guy on audiforums and he thinks I need to take the TB off for a thorough cleaning. That's not an option for me as it would need a TB adaptation and I don't have a Ross Tech, (just a cheap code reader)
In the old post, it also talks about cleaning contacts under a plate on the side of the TB. It's apparently related to cam tensioner. This references a cam tensioner circuit but I'm assuming that is the P1564 code, which I am not getting.
Given that it didn't run worth a crap with the MAF disconnected, does that mean the MAF is ok? Don't want to replace MAF and continue with same problem.
Any thoughts?
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Jim,
If you continue to get the P1141 code (MAF), you likely need to replace the the MAF...unplugging it while running is NOT a definitive test (caveman ballpark "guess" only)...your diagnostic system is the test. Bad MAF will typically cause bad idle (not sure about surging) and eventually cause stalling at low rpm.
You could do this first and look for results ...OR (what I'd do) remove the throttle body and carefully clean it. Unless you're putting on a new throttle body (never adapted), the ECM memorizes all the signals from yours and the car itself will re-adapt it even if it's not exactly at it's original values...see text below from Bentley. You do not "need" vagcom for this, if all else is correct.
If the problem continues, replace the MAF as your diagnostics suggest.
Cheers,
Sam
If you continue to get the P1141 code (MAF), you likely need to replace the the MAF...unplugging it while running is NOT a definitive test (caveman ballpark "guess" only)...your diagnostic system is the test. Bad MAF will typically cause bad idle (not sure about surging) and eventually cause stalling at low rpm.
You could do this first and look for results ...OR (what I'd do) remove the throttle body and carefully clean it. Unless you're putting on a new throttle body (never adapted), the ECM memorizes all the signals from yours and the car itself will re-adapt it even if it's not exactly at it's original values...see text below from Bentley. You do not "need" vagcom for this, if all else is correct.
If the problem continues, replace the MAF as your diagnostics suggest.
Cheers,
Sam
Last edited by silverd2; 10-19-2014 at 06:28 AM.
#3
Cold start bounce
I had this issue and I also did everything you speak of. It got worse until it started missing on a cylinder. It ended up being one of my injectors slowly wearing out. One way to check is pull the inject array out of the engine and put it in a small plastic tub on top of the engine. Try to start the engine and watch the injectors. If it still puts out fuel when it's turned off, you know you have an issue.
Cheers!
Cheers!
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