Hood latch cable snap, how to route to footwell?
07-31-2018, 04:36 AM
#16
AudiWorld Super User
To do this on the S8 with the V10, you HAVE to remove the coolant expansion tank. To remove it, you take the driver's side rear inner fender off (I already had the front inner fender off), disconnect the coolant pipe at the bottom of it, drain it, disconnect the tank level electrical connector, and then go to the top. Remove the one Phillips head screw, then there are two tabs that have to be displaced and you can push up from the bottom or grab it from the cap hole and pull it out. It takes a while to get the tabs displaced and the tank clear.
Then you remove the black plastic tray that holds the tank, there are two 10 mm nuts that are visible from the outside and one blind one that can be seen once the tank is out. So you have to remove the tank before you can remove the tray.
Took me about 2.5 hours to get the new cable in and everything back together.
One other note: I removed the two 8mm nuts that hold the driver's side fuse block in and was able to gain much more access with the fuse block free.
Then you remove the black plastic tray that holds the tank, there are two 10 mm nuts that are visible from the outside and one blind one that can be seen once the tank is out. So you have to remove the tank before you can remove the tray.
Took me about 2.5 hours to get the new cable in and everything back together.
One other note: I removed the two 8mm nuts that hold the driver's side fuse block in and was able to gain much more access with the fuse block free.
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tkm3 (11-04-2021)
07-31-2018, 08:11 AM
#17
AudiWorld Wiseguy
Isn’t it easier to just pull the broken cable out of the sleeve, thread a new one through, and then crimp new ferrules onto each end? You can get all that stuff from your local bicycle store for buttons.
What am I missing here?
What am I missing here?
07-31-2018, 01:08 PM
#18
AudiWorld Super User
If you look at the cable, it has a special brass ball on the inside of the vehicle that fits into the lever, it's a PITA to get in.
Where it breaks is in the box under the hood, the ferrule breaks off, if you had to put something new on it, you couldn't because the cable wouldn't be the correct length any longer, plus it has a special fitting for the two hood pieces that is connects to. Way easier to just put a new cable in. It's too bad that it's $50 (or $90 from your local dealer) but it is what it is.
Where it breaks is in the box under the hood, the ferrule breaks off, if you had to put something new on it, you couldn't because the cable wouldn't be the correct length any longer, plus it has a special fitting for the two hood pieces that is connects to. Way easier to just put a new cable in. It's too bad that it's $50 (or $90 from your local dealer) but it is what it is.
08-02-2018, 06:55 AM
#19
AudiWorld Super User
Originally Posted by PaulW
If you look at the cable, it has a special brass ball on the inside of the vehicle that fits into the lever, it's a PITA to get in.
Where it breaks is in the box under the hood, the ferrule breaks off, if you had to put something new on it, you couldn't because the cable wouldn't be the correct length any longer, plus it has a special fitting for the two hood pieces that is connects to. Way easier to just put a new cable in. It's too bad that it's $50 (or $90 from your local dealer) but it is what it is.
Where it breaks is in the box under the hood, the ferrule breaks off, if you had to put something new on it, you couldn't because the cable wouldn't be the correct length any longer, plus it has a special fitting for the two hood pieces that is connects to. Way easier to just put a new cable in. It's too bad that it's $50 (or $90 from your local dealer) but it is what it is.
Cheers,
Louis
11-21-2019, 09:15 AM
#20
AudiWorld Newcomer
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Thanks very much for the instructions. I've been able to follow it all, though I had a hell of a time with the grommet on my W12, there's just so little space I ended up using skewer sticks like chopsticks to place it after removing the windshield wipers and that trim piece. Unfortunately, I still can't seem to get the lever in the footwell to pull enough to activate the two cables, it's like it isn't taut.
I think the problem is that my junction box isn't held tight anywhere, but I can't find any examples of where that junction box is supposed to sit so that when you pull the lever the whole box doesn't just shift around in the engine bay, I'm considering zip-tying that junction box somehow to keep the line taut, but I'm worried about having to break in through the driver's side wheel well again, might make things impossible next time. Any tips?
I think the problem is that my junction box isn't held tight anywhere, but I can't find any examples of where that junction box is supposed to sit so that when you pull the lever the whole box doesn't just shift around in the engine bay, I'm considering zip-tying that junction box somehow to keep the line taut, but I'm worried about having to break in through the driver's side wheel well again, might make things impossible next time. Any tips?