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As mentioned in the sticky which is always at the top of the D3 thread, use the search function. This is one of the top three subjects on the D3 Thread. Granted, many threads discuss the main failure point, the bushings in the control arms which can be replaced with a press or a makeshift press-like removal tool.
Dozens of posts within these threads have photos and many discuss the one shortcut that requires the use of a Sawz-All. I personally use a Bosch Panther reciprocating saw.
You will need a new bolt for each side of the car if you go this route.
Yes i know, i did find a lot here and on other sites, but i couldnt find anything about the airsuspension removal.
As i looked in ElsaWin, it said the connections should never be moved. The thread is more about the removal of it, what i should be thinking when open the connectors and the consequences if removing wrong.
And i have also read about the bolt that is very hard to remove, and tools as airhammer and electric saw i dont have so i hoped anyone knew any tricks for that.
About the bolt, do you know the part number? I only recived screws for the inner side.
Im want to change the red parts and according to the sites and ElsaWn software i have to remove the strut to get to the bolt nr 9(blue). And to do so i have to disconnect the air vent, and it should be very sensitive, so i wonder how it should be done correctly.
Or maybe it is possible for change with only removing the tire?
10. Common repairs and questions. The Upper Control Arm bushings go bad quite often on the D3. if you hear a crunching or squeaking noise, you probably need to replace them. Dozens, make that hundreds of threads are out there.
Then in lieu of even a real search, scroll down less than a page to a post with over thirty replies and 3100 hits. It is all right there, and probably those hundreds of other posts. Even the discussion specifically about (no) need to drop the strut much has been had in recent days. Use search and do some initial research. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ences-2874055/
If one of the dual pinch bolts are seized and both the head as well as threaded ends snap off; it will be one heck of a video. You'll have to remove everything like I showed in the saga I posted a year ago. Only photos but they tell the story. Funny how one side was seized and the other came apart with no problem at all.
Mr Bally,
Thanks for the warning. I'm not doing it today until I get all the new bolts just in case they snapped off just like you said. Do you know what sizes are these bolts or I just have to buy them from the dealers only.
I would do dealer except in emergency. They are hardened for starters, which makes it more of a treasure hunt even here in SF Bay Area. Also have the green color on whole bolt, which is a fine factory Loc Tite coating and may help deal w/ the freezing issues, at least in single use. I still am doing the pinch bolts with anti seize along the shafts though even w/ that coating--just the shafts and head, not the threads.
Factory/dealer bolts are also fairly cheap for most of them. Hardly more than you pay for metric specialty stuff retail, if you can even find it hardened and exactly the factory length. I just do it as an add on with something else from audiusaparts to avoid a separate base shipping charge.
04-28-2015, 01:52 PM
Upper control arm change S8
