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What do you all think for a brand of Ball Joints? Mine look tight but I figure if I've already got the control arm off...
RockAuto has Flennor for one side and that's it. Curious about Moog? That's a Federal-Mogul brand IIRC.
Moog would be fine..or if your ball joints are still tight (probably are)..just reuse them. Check them when you have the control arms off. The Audi ball joints are very tough and don't suffer the wear that the control arm bushings get.
When I did my control arm bushings my ball joints were fine. If the ball joint boots get cracked or broken and the grease leaks..that is when they get replaced. Mechanically the OEM Audi ball joints last a very long time. I used some food service quality spray silicone on the ball joint rubber boots to keep them alive as long as possible.
CR is right about the Derlin bushings..firm, tight ride and easy to install or service. The only downside is the cost and they can be squeaky (some people complain about that after replacing the OEM rubber and using Derlin bushings) in operation. Might be why 034 includes a tube of quality Mobil grease with the kit.
I use my Cabriolet as a daily driver. If I was sporting the car, I would follow CR's advise install Derlin bushings front and (if available) rear.
Thanks, Rusty,
Over the weekend I started de-greasing and cleaning up all the wheel wells and engine/transmission. Wound up spending about 2 hours with a gallon of "OilEater" in a pump up sprayer, my pressure washer, and a gas leaf blower to dry things out. The engine itself was pretty clean and leak-free. But both front driveshaft outside boots have been split open for some time and flung grease everywhere.
I then installed Bilstein TC struts and shocks all around. I used new Moog front strut top bearings.(and bump stops). Was pleased to see that for a Made in USA product, the bearings within are "INA" brand, made in Germany, same as the OE ones that came off(in several pieces).
Tie Rods looked good, Sway bar links are tight, but boots on one side are deteriorated.
From what I could see of the control arm bushings, they're pretty worn but not completely collapsed. That job's likely going to be deferred to the engine/transmission swap since the subframe and driveshafts will be swapped at that time as well. I'm tempted to use the Delrin but I've got the OEM...the Bilsteins tightened it up quite a bit, will have to see how they settle in with regards to ride quality.
Also installed new Zimmerman rotors on the back along with Hawk PC (ceramic) pads. I have Zimmerman rotors for the front to install, just waiting for the pads to arrive. Old pads were just about at the wear limit all around. Haven't fully bedded them in yet, but already feels much better. Need to flush out the brake fluid at some point also.
After the front brakes, next up is the convertible top replacement, A/C troubleshooting, vacuum fixes(side vents and cruise control), lots of other small things.
For the A/C it's just barely cool and doesn't keep up(like the compressor clutch isn't engaging) I'm getting a low voltage code out of VCDS: Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 4A0 919 579 F
Component and/or Version: Stg. Klimak. 6-Zyl. D07
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 336BC90601225686565-1FFA
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-00 - Signal too Low
Fuse is good. Haven't dug into it too much more...Bentley says there's a low pressure side access at a switch on the passenger interior side of the dash? I don't recall seeing that or how accessible it is?
On the good news side, my top is mechanically working perfectly, the headliner needs a bit of assistance to tuck away properly.
Last edited by Baumeister; 09-29-2014 at 09:18 AM.
The low pressure switch is Waayyy back behind the airbox/glovebox. Chances are your refrigerant level is down and the compressor is "cycling"..which is not the operational mode on our cars. Our compressors run 100% of the time with the A/C switch on, unless the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off. The high pressure switch MAY turn the compressor off too..I don't recall..I do know the high pressure switch kicks in the high speed fans.
Chances are you need some gas in the A/C system...and Audi thoughtfully did not provide for servicing the A/C system through the low side. The only service port is the high side.
There is a threaded fitting on the compressor which you can use for servicing the A/C low side..you need a Yellow Jacket 19153 1/2" Acme Adapter (Amazon) to thread on the compressor to fit an A/C low side gauge.. I had to get a couple of extra schader valves and shorten the yellow jacket schader valve adapter tip by trail and fitting so the adapter would not over compress the Audi compressor schader valve and allow the A/C gauge snap on end to come on and off the yellow jacket adapter easily.
I don't use 134a..I use Duracool. Makes the servicing of A/C in the home shop easy without putting 134a gas in the atmosphere. 134a is not very healthy to breath too.
The low pressure switch is Waayyy back behind the airbox/glovebox. Chances are your refrigerant level is down and the compressor is "cycling"..which is not the operational mode on our cars. Our compressors run 100% of the time with the A/C switch on, unless the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off. The high pressure switch MAY turn the compressor off too..I don't recall..I do know the high pressure switch kicks in the high speed fans.
Chances are you need some gas in the A/C system...and Audi thoughtfully did not provide for servicing the A/C system through the low side. The only service port is the high side.
There is a threaded fitting on the compressor which you can use for servicing the A/C low side..you need a Yellow Jacket 19153 1/2" Acme Adapter (Amazon) to thread on the compressor to fit an A/C low side gauge.. I had to get a couple of extra schader valves and shorten the yellow jacket schader valve adapter tip by trail and fitting so the adapter would not over compress the Audi compressor schader valve and allow the A/C gauge snap on end to come on and off the yellow jacket adapter easily.
I don't use 134a..I use Duracool. Makes the servicing of A/C in the home shop easy without putting 134a gas in the atmosphere. 134a is not very healthy to breath too.
If it is legal in your state, have a professional vacuum the system to recycle the 134a and use Duracool or HC12a..do the planet a favor and don't fund Dupont chemicals.
last month. Just haven't gotten around to locating the compressor valve. I'm fine with propane refrigerants, but I've got R-134a on hand along with UV dye and a light.
Just checking in...haven't had time to wrench on this car all winter and spring. I did get the A/C charged up and it mostly held over the winter.
I also finally was able to pull the leaking hydraulic top pump and put a new reservoir/o-ring on it and get it back together. Hoping that was the cause of the leak and so far it looks good.
I pulled out the headliner tonight to start on the top replacement. As I look it over, the OE canvas top is in pretty good shape all around, it's just that rear window that's completely opaque and now cracked open. So maybe I'll try replacing that first? Anyone try the eMiata guy or the outfit in France?
The car came with new top fabric in a box, but it's pinpoint vinyl and I have a hard time reconciling putting a vinyl top on a German car.
I do have the TDI engine(AFN) on a stand in my garage and an 012(BAA) 5 speed transmission, plus the right subframe, axles, etc. I've got to do maintenance on the engine(Timing belt,other belts, maybe a cam) before install, buy a clutch, figure out the exhaust plan, and also figure out the ECM wiring to use the donor ECM('97 A4) to run it all.
Hopefully that's this winter's project.
The stock transmission's electronics are shot.it'll shift from 3-4 sometimes if you build up enough pressure but you have to shift it manually to get first gear. Otherwise it starts in 3rd (limp mode?)
My wife doesn't mind driving it like that so I haven't had to rush to get my swap stuff ready. Planning on a new radiator/heater core at the same time, but maybe I'll live with the existing until I get the bugs worked out of the swap.
I tried several ways to fill the top pump reservoir, before I remembered I had a bottle of "Zoom Spout Oiler". So I dumped the contents of that bottle, refilled with CHF 11S and have kept 11S in the bottle ever since.
I also went ahead and bought the zip-in window from Cristal-Cabriolet last Sunday. No extra cost on the shipping and it arrived today from France.
I started cleaning the top a few days ago, thinking I should really attack it before putting the new window in. First step was with a furniture/dusting brush attachment to our shop vac. I was amazed how much just dry vacuuming restored the "black".
Then a few rounds of Raggtop cleaner, with light use of a horsehair brush. There were areas around the window that had white residue and almost all of that is now gone.
Today it got 2-3 coats of Raggtop aerosol protectant. Pictures to come.
The original top has a strip of braided wire all around the window for the heat-activated original sealant, the 2 ends are on the driver's side. To remove the window easily you apply 12v for 30seconds. In my case, I used regular auto jumper cables to my Tahoe's battery. It wasn't more than 10-15 seconds before one corner started smoking(which I had been warned about). Quickly disconnected and the window came out easily, without the zipper. I was then able to get the window side of the zipper out and clean up the rest of the seam.
The new window zipped in fairly easily, with the most difficult part being getting the zipper started in the right spot. The new window has the center spot marked. The start/stop of the factory zipper appears to also be in the exact middle so that's where I started.
The new window uses 3M VHB tape around the perimeter, I left that step for tomorrow in the midday heat and sun to help accelerate the bond. I'll snap some pics at that time.
Those 2 tiny wires below are woven copper. They're embedded along the perimeter of the rear window. Applying 12 volts for 10-30 seconds will activate/deactivate the sealant. I used jumper cables to a car battery for about 12 seconds(until smoke started to appear). The window then practically fell out with a bit of help, and then it was just a matter of unzipping the old zipper half(starts at middle bottom).
Old vs. new
New window installed, not perfect but functional for now:
Last edited by Baumeister; 07-06-2015 at 06:00 PM.
09-24-2014, 06:49 PM
