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Unfortunately no as I couldn't figure out the pinouts and if the pad worked off of x/y axis coordinates. The company that manufactures the touchpad didn't have any info that could help either.
Update again: Tapped into the stock microphone as I wanted a solution that didn't require me to change batteries (the olympus). The microphone works at lower speeds, but the car is just too loud from the tires mainly to work all the time. Tried using another microphone that took 12V but didn't work.
Needed to use a hot glue gun to "Strengthen" the LVDS wire as I was getting flickering from the screen moving from open/close. The wires are incredibly fragile so this is highly recommended to do before installation.
I got one of these units and looking over the kit. I noticed a couple things..
How did you connect to the fuse panel, did you just use a fuse tap?
how about connecting the power harness the CAN, CAN2, aux and other wires, did you just cut back the wire, splice and solder?
Where did you tap the stock microphone into the navitouch, where did you find the microphone wire?
The installation video and the printed instructions they include do not talk at all about connecting these wires. The schematic they include is very basic. How did you sort this all out, or will it just make sense when I take everything apart.
I got one of these units and looking over the kit. I noticed a couple things..
How did you connect to the fuse panel, did you just use a fuse tap?
how about connecting the power harness the CAN, CAN2, aux and other wires, did you just cut back the wire, splice and solder?
Where did you tap the stock microphone into the navitouch, where did you find the microphone wire?
The installation video and the printed instructions they include do not talk at all about connecting these wires. The schematic they include is very basic. How did you sort this all out, or will it just make sense when I take everything apart.
1) Fuse, I just used a fuse tap that I got at my local auto store.
2) Tapping into the Can H/L wires, I just did as the instructions stated splicing/soldering, however I'd use a positap type of connector as its a ton easier.
3) I already had the wire up in the headliner for the microphone, so I soldered the leads directly on the microphone. You can get to the wires closer to the MMI from the back and use the positap again to convert the wire over to the 2.5mm mic jack. You will find on the lower left of the plug that goes into the MMI #1 is postive and #7 is negative.
When you get everything all taken apart, its much easier to see the many wires that you'll be dealing with. Take you time too and get zip ties for better cable management. The wire that is the most crucial is the LDVS going into the monitor since it moves with the up/down motion of the screen.
Yea those posi-taps are great, i was planning on using them for everything rather then stripping all the wires. If i run into intermittent problems I may consider soldering but i think they will work perfect.
Out of curiosity, did you place the GPS in the recommended location like in the NaviTouch installation video? If not where did you place it and what was the reason?
I tried removing the side pillar to place the GPS there, but for the life of me i was unable to remove it. I was able to get the top unscrewed, and the clip released by sliding up. But it was stuck down in the corner underneath the windshield and edge/corner of the dashboard. Is there any screw, tab or anything?? The odd thing is that there is up/downwards play like I can slide it up and down. but it just wont come out.
Yea those posi-taps are great, i was planning on using them for everything rather then stripping all the wires. If i run into intermittent problems I may consider soldering but i think they will work perfect.
Out of curiosity, did you place the GPS in the recommended location like in the NaviTouch installation video? If not where did you place it and what was the reason?
I tried removing the side pillar to place the GPS there, but for the life of me i was unable to remove it. I was able to get the top unscrewed, and the clip released by sliding up. But it was stuck down in the corner underneath the windshield and edge/corner of the dashboard. Is there any screw, tab or anything?? The odd thing is that there is up/downwards play like I can slide it up and down. but it just wont come out.
I think the posi-taps should be good, I ended up soldering mine, but it was such a headache.
I ended up moving my GPS to the top of the window, to the right of the Rear view mirror and as close to the headliner. I literally can't see it at all without looking. The lower location worked, but sometimes lost connection.
As for the side pillar piece, the first time I did it, I also couldn't get it off. So when you remove the bolt from the top, pull up and out. Then when you have it moved up some, wiggle the lower section out as well. I think there is another "click" connection that is holding it in. Make sure to also not yank it out because you'll damage the tweeter wires, so disconnect those as soon as you can grab them.
Let me know if you have any extra questions. In a few weeks I think I might do a better write-up as a few have asked, and some of the pieces are really tricky to disassemble.
Also ditch their front end and find AutoMate application (its in beta right now) to use as your launcher. That has dramatically made it so much easier to use the system while driving. It mimics Android Auto quite a bit.
Are you planning on the steering wheel controls? Its a little bit more money but well worth it so you don't have to mess with the screen while driving. Let me know and I can help you out with the parts, etc for that. The piece also taps into the Canbus HI signals. I'm still trying to play around with getting all the buttons on the steering wheel to work, but still have yet to figure out the 3 wire MFSW controls (I thought they were resistive but might be LIN or digital signals).
07-29-2016, 09:36 AM
