marulo

Hi all, I'm a new audi owner and member needing a bit of help (and luck). This post is an attempt to document my current problem with the A4 Avant Premium as well as the work in progress in order to solve it. Any help from you is greatly appreciated.

THE PROBLEM: After a long rainy day, I started my commute and the speakers started banging like crazy (even when the car was off) for about 15minutes until they stopped. No sound on the MMI as a result. From what I read in the forum, the amp is fried. This makes sense based also on the fact that I bought the car two months ago and the seller replaced the amp right before selling it to me.

I checked the rear of the car and found plenty of water deposited in the bucket below the driver side rear light and over the bumper (see picture attached). My hunch is that no water was dripping over the amp. Instead, I believe the water moved front and back while driving and splashed over the amp (note: the driveway where I park is uphill)

Before replacing the amp I'd like to figure out exactly where is the water coming from and fix it. I read here and elsewhere that it could be: a) rear roof drain hose clogged, b) Sunroof cassette not sealed (?), c) rear wiper washer leak.

So I started my research by taking out the side panels and watering the sunroof. After a while, water started coming out from the back of the passenger side headliner (a mini cascade. See picture attached).

THE SOLUTION? [to be completed]
Right now I don't know what to do now to finish my diagnostic and, more importantly, to fix it. I guess I could A) try to remove the top headliner to search better where the water is coming from. I have no idea how this is done and I'm afraid of breaking pins and causing damage to the headliner/cables, etc. B) Try to access the water drain hose from the sunroof (may be easier but again, haven't found instructions on how to do so). C) Try to clean the drain by using an odometer cable from behind the rear wheel (diagram here Audi Workshop Manuals > A4 Mk3 > Body > General body repairs, exterior > Sliding roof > Water drain hoses > Water drain hoses (Avant)).


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Happy 2017 everyone!

marulo

Forgot to mention: the car is a 2009 A4 Avant Premium.

plat27265

I m so sorry to hear about the water leak in your B8 A4 Avant. Doing a quick search on Google, I found these two threads on that same issue:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-.../#post24040265

Roof Leak on Audi B8 Avant??

The first link indicated that there might be a recall for this issue. Best to check with your Audi dealer.

Both links did not offer any other solution except to clean the roof drains and tubes which you are already planning to do.

As for the broken amplifier, you have two options:

Have it fixed. These guys may be able to fix it but not sure how the cost compares to a replacement used amp on, say Ebay. Home - Paulison Corporation | Bose Amplifier Spares & Repairs

Buy a replacement amp on Ebay. Used amps go for less than $100 up to around $400 from some vendors.

marulo

Thanks!. I've read those threads before and I feel I'm close to finding out the problem but, even though I feel it must be a drain clogged, there's a lot of uncertainty ahead. I'm not sure about the best approach or sequence of steps to follow now that I'm half way in with the headliner. Has anyone seen instructions on how to take apart the headliner on a B8? Is it too hard to take the sunroof apart?

When I contacted the dealer they only said it would cost me a fortune to figure out where the leak is (and I now understand why) and then fixing the amp. I will have it fixed at Paulison Corp, but only after I figure out the reason for the leak. Tomorrow I'll make another attempt to reaching the passenger-side rear water drain.

Cheers,

jfo

The rear drains exit in the top of the rear wheel well and can be reached by removing the top and front fasteners, then folding the liner back. The rubber nipples can become clogged or stuck together. I would check this first. If water runs out after poking the opening, that is likely the problem. The drains in the roof panel are connected to the tube that runs down to the wheel well. The connector nipple in each corner can leak or may even separate from the tube. The headliner can apparently be pulled down enough to view and access the connection, after removing the pillar trim. If the joint is leaking it can be sealed with silicone or clamped.

marulo

Thanks a lot!! Yes. That's what I did yesterday. I took the rear wheel off and then the panel. There's no need to remove the whole panel but I wasn't sure so I did. Also, I was afraid of ripping the clips apart (see picture) but it was easy once I got a plastic flat pryer.

I used the odometer cable to run it through the drain hose. I didn't see water coming out though I wasn't paying much attention. I did notice some grease and small debris on the cable after I pulled it out. What could have happened is that the drain was never fully clogged, so water would overflow only if the rain is heavy (or if the rain is moderate and the car is parked in a hill so that all the water goes to the same drain as in my case). Anyway, I put the car back on the driveway and through a lot of water to it. Nothing came to the interior!! I'm not claiming victory yet, I will try to view or access the connector nipple before I put the trims back.

I'll move on to the AMP fixing next. I'll get the VAGCOM codes in case someone can help me figure out if the damage goes beyond the amp.
Cheers,

marulo

Mini update: car ran out of battery twice in the process. Not sure if related, but on both days, day 1 and day 3 I tested the leak throwing a lot of water over the car.

I'm sure I'll have to replace the battery, my question is what can be causing the battery drain? Could it be related to unplugged cables?

marulo

It's me again. Called AAA guy, checked the battery and system and claimed that battery was dead and that there was no electricity loss in the system. So he went ahead and replaced my Varta battery with an Interstate that AAA claims it is the one that goes in the Avant (See pics). I complained but accepted. It took a while for the car to start with the new battery. Don't know why. It kept cranking and cranking with no result. I asked AAA guy if he was sure battery was OK. He re-checked and confirmed (btw, the AAA guy plugged his console to the OBD terminal for "coding". I assume he was doing what in this forum is referred to as coding the new battery. He didn't seem to know really, just following procedures)

It's been a week since then and now the car won't start again. It worked this morning but you could tell that it'd take a bit longer to actually fire up the engine. Tonight, when I tried to turn it on, all lights (outside and in the dashboard) came on and off and flashing for a while. Then everything turned off. The car has "some" juice left because I can still lock and unlock remotely but no response when I try to start the engine or even turn a light.

So tomorrow I'll call AAA again to recharge the battery and do a full VCDS, but I wonder if I made a mistake allowing the battery replacement.

OLD BATTERY
VARTA 12V 92Ah 520 A DIN


NEW BATTERY:
Interstate?, 95Ah

marulo

I'm replying myself in the forum so at least I'll help someone in the future to avoid the same mistakes I made. It turns out the battery the AAA guy placed in the car is not the correct one. The warranty covered me and now I have a "94C" (see new picture) instead of a "49RC". It is -10C in DC and the car has worked fine for the last 3 days. A couple of things happened after replacing the battery (maybe unrelated, maybe not).
1) I got a tire pressure sign (it may be due to temperature that dropped significantly after I changed the battery)
2) The oil reader says "drain oil" and I've been checking this consistently in the past as I replaced oil and filter a month ago.
3) The door sensors (lock/unlock) stopped working. I think it may be due to freezing temperatures but not sure.

Will keep an eye on them.

As for the water, the car is dry inside so the reason my amp fried was the a clogged drain (the pain could have been avoided with an annual rain drain clean which I'll do from now on)


I have VCDS results. I'm posting the fault founds only below. I'd appreciate it if someone can help me out reading them. Especially the sound codes (#47). I want to make sure that ONLY THE AMP is fried before I send it to be repaired...

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1E-Media Player 2 -- Status: OK 0000
36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000
3C-Lane Change -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: Malfunction 0010
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: Malfunction 0010
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: Malfunction 0010
67-Voice Control -- Status: OK 0000
6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: OK 0000
6D-Trunk Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 0F: Digital Radio Labels: 4E0-910-593-SIR.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 593 M HW: 4E0 035 593 F
Component: SDAR SIRIUS H07 0160
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ4Z7H0399509
Coding: 0000100

1 Fault Found:
02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 79
Mileage: 144874 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.01.07
Time: 12:49:08

----

Address 47: Sound System (J525) Labels: 8T0-035-223-BOM.clb
Part No SW: 8T0 035 223 T HW: 8T0 035 223 F
Component: DSP Prem H14 0400
Revision: 00H14004 Serial number: 34821020167005
Coding: 030101

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2064.00.00
Time: 00:00:33
Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 15.40 V
Temperature: 15.0°C
Temperature: 23.0°C
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Bin. Bits: 01100000
Bin. Bits: 00000000

-----

Address 62: Door, Rear Left (J388) Labels: 8K0-959-795.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 795 HW: 8K0 959 795
Component: TSG HL H06 0170
Revision: Serial number: 0000007653127
Coding: 010C13204000210001

1 Fault Found:
02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 81
Mileage: 144880 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.01.07
Time: 14:31:25

-----

Address 65: Tire Pressure (J502) Labels: 8K0-907-273.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 907 273 A HW: 8K0 907 273 A
Component: J502-RDK H03 0250

1 Fault Found:
02214 - Tire Pressure Warning
000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 80
Mileage: 144875 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.01.07
Time: 13:37:40
Freeze Frame:
0.00
Bin. Bits: 00000000 00000101
Voltage: 12.20 V
Text: -04,0°C; 7,67bar;3441857746;00h;-50°C

-----


Thanks!

marulo

Sent the amp for repair to Eddie at Home - Paulison Corporation | Bose Amplifier Spares & Repairs. We'll see the result soon. If he can fix this (see picture) he's a genius.