javedikian

That's actually what I have in my 225 right now because I can't find 5w 40 or 0w 40 anywhere but plenty of 5w 50. I planned on going to 5w 30 if I still can't find any.

Kareem of Elise

I just use a large channel lock pliers.....

bubba j

The point is that most residents don't have driveways.

BuddyDog

As usual, very thorough especially for the mechanically challenged!

MarTT

I've hit 20k miles so I figured it was a good idea to get some fresh oil in the engine, especially with the 400-hp turbo pushing it harder than usual. Since the Audi maintenance is only at 15k and 25k, I thought I'd take a stab at doing the work myself.

After searching here aimlessly for the post someone had made about changing the engine oil in their TT 3.2 (and not finding it since it was actually <a href="http://www.audittcca.com/faq/1096546770">here on the TTCA site</a>), I finally got the right tool to remove the "underbelly pan" and access the oil pan &amp; filter housing.

Here is the procedure to follow, for those of you who might take a stab at it on your own:


1. Jack the front wheels up, or use a couple of ramps to give yourself more clearance:

<img src="http://images39.fotki.com/v1350/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange01-vi.jpg">


2. Remove the underbelly pan, here it is taken off from the car:

<img src="http://images36.fotki.com/v1352/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange02-vi.jpg">

There are a lot of "fasteners" that need to be removed. Given the color-coding above, here's what has to be removed:

a) the blue fastners are flat-head screws that turn 90 degrees and stay on the panel, they're off to the side in front of the wheels:

<img src="http://images41.fotki.com/v1341/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange03-vi.jpg">


b) the yellow fasteners are T45 torx bolts, note that many of these were actually stripped (need new ones now):

<img src="http://images40.fotki.com/v1301/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange04-vi.jpg">


c) the 2 red fasteners are huge 12-point "triple square" bolts, which I had a hard time finding the tool for:

<img src="http://images108.fotki.com/v1354/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange05-vi.jpg">

The technical term for the required bit to remove the tool is XZN114, which translates to a 14mm triple-square or 12-point bit.
Here's the kit that I bought from <a href="http://autodax.com/catalog/pdetail.php?prdid=44">Autodax</a>, which includes the 14mm bit:

<img src="http://images108.fotki.com/v1354/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange06-vi.jpg">


3. After the underbelly pan is finally removed, locate the oil pan:

<img src="http://images108.fotki.com/v1354/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange07-vi.jpg">

This is the bolt you want to remove to drain the oil, it's a 19mm hex:

<img src="http://images43.fotki.com/v1326/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange08-vi.jpg">


4. Locate the oil filter housing, which is just in front of the oil pan:

<img src="http://images40.fotki.com/v1333/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange09-vi.jpg">

You'll first need to remove the hex bolt to drain the rest of the oil from the filter housing, then remove the housing itself. My recommendation is to use a 36mm socket, which I already had from changing the oil in my GTI but had to get a while back specifically for this activity:

<img src="http://images40.fotki.com/v1334/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange10-vi.jpg">


5. Remove the filter housing with this 36mm socket:

<img src="http://images42.fotki.com/v1314/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange11-vi.jpg">

Here is the old oil filter:

<img src="http://images40.fotki.com/v1338/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange12-vi.jpg">

Use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove the O-ring and replace it with the new one:

<img src="http://images39.fotki.com/v1350/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange13-vi.jpg">

Here's the new filter ready to go:

<img src="http://images43.fotki.com/v1321/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange14-vi.jpg">

6. Place the new oil filter in the housing and re-install the filter housing (tighten with the 36mm socket to 25 Nm torque) and screw the hex bolt back on the bottom.

7. Re-install the drain plug (19mm bolt) and torque to 30 Nm.

8. Re-install the underbelly pan (after getting new fasteners if necessary).

9. Finally, the most fun part: fill'er up with new synthetic oil!!

<img src="http://images40.fotki.com/v1334/photos/4/41970/6769407/oilchange15-vi.jpg">

HPA's recommendation was to use Castrol's "Synthec" in 5W-50, which I had quite a hard time finding locally. For those in the San Francisco area, Cresta Warehouse on 5050 Mission street carries it along with many other oils.

Enjoy!!
-Marc

hali410-Brunei

thanks.
this post helps a lot.
should have updated it at the 1st page. but a very helpful diy.