DAMMIT!! I have the attention span of a kitten and the self-control...

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Old 02-13-2009, 10:32 AM
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Default DAMMIT!! I have the attention span of a kitten and the self-control...

of a nymphomaniac hooker in estrus!!

I'm cleaning up another IM to tear into. Try as I might I'm simply incapable of putting this concept down and forgetting about it. I can't get ANY of my other work done without walking over to another virgin IM repeatedly and wondering "what if? God I HATE me when I get this way!

Ok, here's the latest plan.

Take an OEM manifold top half and mill the ENTIRE large runner ceiling out of it... TOTALLY hog it out out into a rectangular hole with radiused corners. Mathematically that'll provide damn near 6 times the intake air opening that currently exists in the IM top. Then with expandable urethane foam fill in the area between the new large/single opening and the nearby walls creating a smooth tho radiused rectangular velocity stack. When foam has been sanded/shaped correctly fill in with the 3M urethane filler (remember the airbox workshop).

On lower half of IM cut, then mill the entire long path equal-length runners out of it altogether right up to and including the existing IM plenum's floor. This then leaves only the intake runner flanges that bolt to the cylinder head. That will immediately "more-than-double" the existing plenum's internal volume. Then CNC a 1/8" thick aluminum plate and Tig to the IM bottom to become the new floor and seal off the short remaining intake runners and mill the remaining OEM short low RPM inlets with the mill on the inside of the lower half. Then do the final shaping and clean-up with an array of rotary grinders similar to the IM Workshop. Follow-up doing the same thing in the upper IM half but leaving the 4 threaded posts that secure the upper lower IM halves together albeit with MUCH shorter machine screws.

This manifold will BREATHE like NO other! I'm sure I can compensate for most of the anticipated low RPM loss via stand alone with modified timing/fuel maps. It will also allow for the IM to be rotated 180 on the heads so if desired I could run the throttle body at front of engine by lengthening throttle cables, building a new TPS harness, relocating coils and using the MR2 electronic power steering pump. All down the road mods that modifying an IM this way allows. I could also then run CCV breather hoses into rear of IM plenum providing for a MUCH cleaner-operating "never-to-get-dirty-again" throttle body! I would also cut/weld the EGR tube/sensor assembly from a sacrificial IM to the back of the modified/lightened IM so that remains 100% stock/OEM in every way. Evaporative purge valve would be handled off the rear of the IM via a simple drilled/tapped hole on rear of IM passenger side and a small hose barb. Vac boost would be handled similarly albeit a MUCH shorter vac line from IM rear. And there would be other things that would need to be addressed as well but again, this is ONLY if/when I were to swap the manifold 180* front-to-rear.

My best guess at this point is once done the modified manifold "should weigh less than 4lbs and possibly as little as just over 2lbs. Stock complete "clean" intake manifold weighs 20.85lbs. Losing 18lbs right off the top of the engine would be WONDERFUL in both weight-loss AND front-to-rear weight balance ratio!! And I could do new valley pan gasket R&Rs with the new manifold INSTALLED!!! That alone is worth the hassle! Truthfully I haven't even scratched the surface on all the benefits this could provide. But the ultimate test will be if I can build this and beat my then-current 15-60MPH pull elapsed times. If I cannot do that it becomes a complete waste of time and "dumpster sculpture."
Old 02-13-2009, 11:55 AM
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Default Sounds interesting.....While on that subject, how about an RS4/R8 style manifold....

Where you have single runners angled in and up into a common plenum with velocity stack type inlets at each one. The key on this manifold, though, is the adjustable flaps at the bottom of each runner that constantly adjust airflow into each cylinder.

Would look like this from the front/back:
._
/ \

With the flaps at the very bottom.
Old 02-13-2009, 02:01 PM
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Default Pic 1...

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/lwhfim.jpg"></center><p>
This pic shows a rough "thumnail" of how machining will be done.

Everything below yellow line in IM front/bottom (on left) will be cut/milled away. Red line indicates where plenum volume will be increased. That area wont have straight walls or a top as indicated by red lines. It will be a simple "plate" of aluminum that when milling I'll create a slight "step/shoulder" for the plate to precisely nestle into and then Tig it into place.

While I'm unsure just how much this is going to affect the low-end I'm MORE than confident it's going to add FAR more on top end than it removes on the low-end! If I didn't believe that life's just too short to do these kinda things.

IM top will have everything within the yellow perimeter milled away and the 4 corners will be radiused instead of square as in pic. Once this is done I'll decide how I want to approach the radius inlet perimeter all the way around this opening to more closely resemble one huge velocity stack inlet into the large bore runners.

Now I'm off to shower. Happy Hour is tuggin at my loin cloth ;-)
Old 02-13-2009, 03:39 PM
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Seems to me you could also mill out the smaller ports in the upper as they would no longer be used
Old 02-13-2009, 04:58 PM
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basically makeing a 12v IM into a 30v IM....this i want to see
Old 02-13-2009, 05:34 PM
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reminds me of the prototype plastic see through corvette intake manifold in R&amp;T a while back.
Old 02-13-2009, 09:27 PM
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Default 2.8 30V IM is carbon-copy 12V w/switchover & equal-spaced oval runners made of composite...

plastic. Dramatically lighter ighter than the 12V IM but identical an design as far as mechanics and secondary runner function.
Old 02-13-2009, 09:36 PM
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Default I could but I need to retain the center 4-bolt posts as well as the wall-to-ceiling...

"clamshell" radius that exists in that spot and matches the outside profile of the IM top as it comes from Pierburg. Those primary inlet inboard walls have a very desireable radius to them that directs air flow into the existing butterfly openings that I feel is worth keeping intact. If I eliminate that radii I make more work for myself trying to add that radius back into the radiused inlet I'll CNC by having to make that component so the 4 threaded bolt posts can be accomodated within it.

Besides I'm anticipating the cut-out as-is to flow in excess of 1,000 CFM which exceeds my curent and future CFM needs by almost 3 times. Going even larger won't net me anything I can use. Sure it would flow more on the bench but it just wouldn't be useable air to the engine.
Old 02-13-2009, 11:09 PM
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than how come nobody has swapped one onto their 12v?
Old 02-13-2009, 11:44 PM
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ohhh, well then the 2.7T IM the one that looks like a spider...im not sober right now or then..ish


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