CrowSS

I have a 1996 A4 Quattro 2.8L

So last summer I ended up driving a long distance on a Sunday to get back home. The timing belt was making noises and I didn't know the damage I could do if I continued to run it and the belt broke. I got about an hour from home and at 65-70 MPH it died. I pulled over immediately and figured the belt broke.
I had it brought home on a flatbed and ended up getting a "beater" to drive while I fixed the Audi. Well it has obviously been at my leisure to fix it, but I was finally to the point yesterday that I could inspect the timing belt area. (I was planning on having to do the heads and valves.)

Regardless, I dug far enough into it and found out that my belt did NOT break. It appears that the pulleys are toast as evidenced by the bearings I found under the crank pulley. The belt shows signs of severe rubbing/chaffing on the back side, due to one or both of the pulleys seizing up.





What is the best way to check and ensure the timing is still "on"?

I have a Bentley on CD-ROM, but I haven't checked their procedure yet.

CrowSS

So after some reading and what-not, I am still unclear as to how to check the timing.

Here's what I see so far:

-Position crank timing marks to ensure TDC
-Hold position with crank pin tool in crank sensor hole
-Attach cam sprocket tool to keep cams aligned
-Remove sprockets from cam shafts (not completely unless doing cam seals)

Does removing the sprockets allow the valve springs to close all valves and "force" the cams into a perfect position relative to TDC on the crank?

I'm at a loss to see if the engine is out of time, how to verify where the cams should be.

CrowSS

Sorry, I can't see where to edit my posts, so I am triple posting.

I have found that the cam sprockets should have larger ovals facing inward when the crank is aligned at TDC. I guess I will attempt to turn by hand with the current damage and see how close the cams are and/or if there is any interference with the valves.

hubturn

Your thinking about the valve springs is a bit off, but I understand the fear. Breaking the sprockets free allows you to replace the timing belt and remove the slack in it prior to tightening the sprocket bolts. With the crank pin in at TDC, and the cam tool aligning the cams, it is pretty tough to get the timing off. Still, you hand crank over the engine to make sure valves are not hitting pistons. The cam locking plates only go on one way, and you can use those to turn the cam shaft into correct position. Yes, it is scary the first time, particularly since the left bank (as looking at it from the front) sits on the peak of one lobe and wants to jump out of position. Just turn it back. Go to www.12v.org for some detailed "How to" info. Bravo on getting the vibration damper bolts out. Replace them if they are rounded out. It looks like you have a new water pump, based on how shiny the pully is. Just for info, the tensioner is moved by placing a allen socket wrench in the octagon shaped hole just above the bolt head in your photo and levering it to the side.

CrowSS

So last night I cranked the engine over 1.5 full revs. After I put the damper and plastic TDC indicator back on, I saw that it stopped exactly on the mark! Well, almost. The cams were 180 out, so I turned it over to true TDC. No problems. I wanted to make sure the valves were okay so I went all the around (timing wise) once more. No noises, no stops, no interference. All seems okay in regards to internal parts.
The longer I look at the carnage, the more I see what the former "owner" did. He did say that the TB and WP were replaced when I bought from him. (I asked for a receipt, but never got one.) More to see the date of when it was done. I now see that indeed that was done, but the tension roller is clearly OLD (it's rusted solid) and the idler roller has puked it's bearings. Leading me to guess that it is OLD as well. (Either that or the dude ran a washer over the engine to make it look clean and soaked them.)
So thankfully my God was smiling down on me that day and ended my trip before the belt actually broke. I would guess due to the "new-ness" of the belt, is why it didn't.
So I'm looking at a TB kit from Blauparts, with tool rental; along with the intake mods Lago has written about and finally a transmission fluid change. Hopefully back and running by the start of Summer.

CrowSS

Almost one year later! Yikes. Anyways, I recently got it all back together and gave it a trial run with the front end still off in case anything major went wrong.
It started and ran. However I have a "clacking" coming from the passenger side head area.
I am led to believe that it is:
1) Possible lifter/tappet/cam follower noise?
2) Possible timing being off?

It HAS been sitting for well over a year now. Chances of lifters not operating properly?

Otherwise I am concerned with the position of the passenger side cam due to it "moving" while replacing the cam seals. I "moved" it back into what I thought was it's proper position prior to locking the cam sprockets back down during TB install, but it COULD be off slightly.

What would actual valve interference noise sound like compared to lifter noise?

Compression shows 120-140 for all cylinders.
Don't know oil pressure on passenger side. Anyone know how to check?

CrowSS

OK, it's been so long, I forgot that the "wing washers" have a flat that lines up with the cam shaft. So it can't be "off" in regards to timing.
I guess that leaves lifters and/or oil pressure huh?

Prospeeder

drive it, the lifters wont quiet down for awhile. How on earth did you not bend all the valves??

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

good question, he might of just gotten lucky. anyways, the ticking... change your oil before you go on driving, then let it idle for about 30 minutes, the ticking should stop, if not, you got problems

grillage

Does it sound like this?

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ighlight=noise