Update on Injectors and DTC Codes that resulted...sort of long
02-10-2006, 06:17 AM
#1
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Update on Injectors and DTC Codes that resulted...sort of long
As everyone know I did switch out my injectors with the 12V 90 injectors and well they did not work so I got some performance ones from Fiveomotorsport and well they do give me a little more power that I can feel but something is still wrong. I moved up to only having 1 cylinder misfiring now but only sometimes. I cylinder 6 is misfiring and I have the P1101 manufacturer Fuel/Air code but I do not know what it really means. I gave the car to a shop and it was working Tuesday when the owner of the shop took it home with him so it did not get stolen outside and he said it was working fine but when he pulled out of his garage yesterday morning it was back to running like crap again. I have not talked with im yet today with it only being 9am amd all.
When it works which is about 80% of time perfectly it runs nice as sh@t and burns out with ease but sometimes it runs like it is misfiring and the idle goes to crap and the car wants to die but does not. The RPMs can range from 1000 to 200 which is pretty far and very low.
If anyone has some input that I could offer to the car place that would be great. They have already done the following...
Tighten Timing Belt
Fix the 1/2 tooth off on the camshaft
Replace coolent Temp sensor (actually was bad)
Replace Thermostat (also died)
The car was checked with the original ECM to ensure my Joe Hoppen Motorsport one was working properly and it was.
This car is starting to really **** me off with everything starting to mess up and I know it is 109K and stuff should need replacing but I do all the maintenance things from Audi and I would assume that most of the commonly broken parts would be on the service lists and would be replaced. It is getting to the point where I just want to pull everything out of the engine bay and stuff in a new engine.
I have too much invested in the car to just scrap the body and take such a loss on it. I am getting a new car in May for graduation (suppose to be a Vette but we will see) so this will become the project I intended it to be in the first place, show car.
When it works which is about 80% of time perfectly it runs nice as sh@t and burns out with ease but sometimes it runs like it is misfiring and the idle goes to crap and the car wants to die but does not. The RPMs can range from 1000 to 200 which is pretty far and very low.
If anyone has some input that I could offer to the car place that would be great. They have already done the following...
Tighten Timing Belt
Fix the 1/2 tooth off on the camshaft
Replace coolent Temp sensor (actually was bad)
Replace Thermostat (also died)
The car was checked with the original ECM to ensure my Joe Hoppen Motorsport one was working properly and it was.
This car is starting to really **** me off with everything starting to mess up and I know it is 109K and stuff should need replacing but I do all the maintenance things from Audi and I would assume that most of the commonly broken parts would be on the service lists and would be replaced. It is getting to the point where I just want to pull everything out of the engine bay and stuff in a new engine.
I have too much invested in the car to just scrap the body and take such a loss on it. I am getting a new car in May for graduation (suppose to be a Vette but we will see) so this will become the project I intended it to be in the first place, show car.
02-10-2006, 08:35 AM
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Uhm, you should have fixed all of that b4 putting on the new injectors,
Coolant temp and sensors help the ECU to determine what levels of Timing and fuel to deliver to the engine, in the morning (cold) the fuel maps and timing are different than when the car is warmed up.
Second, what is this half tooth off on the camshaft, I didn't think this was possible and to still have a running motor, fix it.
Third never tighten a timing belt to more than the mfg's specified tolerances, if it lets go then no more engine.
After you get this stuff fixed, then clear all DTC's and unplug the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU, this will cause the ECU to re-learn its settings once started, hopefully it will be able to adapt to the new injectors without a problem.
Second, what is this half tooth off on the camshaft, I didn't think this was possible and to still have a running motor, fix it.
Third never tighten a timing belt to more than the mfg's specified tolerances, if it lets go then no more engine.
After you get this stuff fixed, then clear all DTC's and unplug the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU, this will cause the ECU to re-learn its settings once started, hopefully it will be able to adapt to the new injectors without a problem.
02-10-2006, 08:38 AM
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The coolent system stuff was done before the injectors were installed
The belt was done because it was loose and I tried the ECM thing but maybe I did not unhook it long enough or something. Either way the car still runs good most of the time and I will get it back today because regardless I need it for the weekend so I will try unplugging it again.
02-10-2006, 08:40 AM
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My Aunt is giving it to me not my parents
I think my parents have done enough so far. They only raised me and everything along with paying for my private college along with all the money that goes into a flight degree and building those flight hours.
02-10-2006, 08:47 AM
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Need more info, you need to start logging data on a VAG COM system
and compare good data (car running well) with the bad data (car misfiring like a bi**h) something is going to be different betweent the two of them.
02-11-2006, 09:09 AM
#7
Re: Uhm, you should have fixed all of that b4 putting on the new injectors,
It is very possible and fairly common to have an Audi 12V or 30V 2.8 V6 camshaft belt half a tooth off. On the Audi 2.8l V6 the camshaft sprockets are not keyed to the camshaft, they are free to rotate until tightened down by he locking plates at the front of the camshafts. To use the factory belt tensioning procedure, the camshafts are required to be loose on the cams while tensioning the camshaft belt with the spreader bar in place. Probably the half tooth off condition occured when a new cambelt was installed without loose sprockets and the spreader bar in place. On my 92 12V 2.8 Audi 100 a very poor intermittent running condition was caused by three worn out components
no signal from dead oxygen sensors (both of them)
and the throttle position sensor. The O2 sensor failures will show up on a scan by a diagnostic tool, but the throttle position sensor never did set a code. (I don't think the 92 Audi 100 diagnostic system is able to detect the failure I had). Also, when just one of the two O2 sensors came back to life for a short while the car would run pretty well. For the 2.8l V6 each O2 sensor will set a code for its respective cylinder bank. The codes are as follows: O2 sensor 1 is G39 on the right cylinder bank and O2 sensor 11 is G108 on the left cylinder bank.
no signal from dead oxygen sensors (both of them)
and the throttle position sensor. The O2 sensor failures will show up on a scan by a diagnostic tool, but the throttle position sensor never did set a code. (I don't think the 92 Audi 100 diagnostic system is able to detect the failure I had). Also, when just one of the two O2 sensors came back to life for a short while the car would run pretty well. For the 2.8l V6 each O2 sensor will set a code for its respective cylinder bank. The codes are as follows: O2 sensor 1 is G39 on the right cylinder bank and O2 sensor 11 is G108 on the left cylinder bank.
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02-11-2006, 12:59 PM
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So the misfires are fixed but the fuel/air code is still on but
The shop found a leak in the intake tubing seals and will have them on monday so hopefully the leak will stop the codes from coming back.
BTW: I thank everyone that has helped me with this problem.
BTW: I thank everyone that has helped me with this problem.